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ESLT Blaster Build Guide

Latex tubing or Extension spring

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#1 Ryan201821

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 08:29 PM

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Background
Bullpups are the new hottest thing in the NIC these days so I decided to build one that's better than the rest. Ice9 gave me the idea a while back to use latex tubing to power a blaster. I've been changing the design constantly over the last six months or so and probably will keep doing so. I'll try to update new files and pieces in this write-up as the blaster improves. I'd like to thank Kane for access to his printer and for letting me adapt his snapoid-level catch to something that can be easily made, and works flawlessly. You'll see different pictures of different revisions, so make sure you read the descriptions for the pictures. This blaster was designed around having a 3d printer, so a lot of things will force you to be creative and come up with a different way of building it.

I will not be selling printed pieces at this time, and probably won't be for the immediate future.


3D Printed Version

Posted Image
Posted Image


Parts List

Essential Tools

Fabrication & Main Assembly

Plunger Rod & Tube

Final Assembly & Miscellaneous

3D Printed Stock


DO NOT POST

Edited by Ryan201821, 04 November 2013 - 04:40 PM.

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#2 Ryan201821

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 08:32 PM

Non-3D Printed Version*

Posted Image
Posted Image

*Disclaimer - I haven't actually built a completely non-3D printed version of this blaster so a lot of the pictures won't make sense. Read the descriptions and please ask if something is unclear. A lot of the directions will be up to you to figure out. This is more of a guideline and not a step-by-step writeup. I'd also recommend also reading the 3D printed version of this.

Parts List

Essential Tools

Non-3D Printed Version Templates

Fabrication & Main Assembly

Plunger Rod & Tube

Final Assembly & Miscellaneous



==============================================================
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDPplDGaunY&feature=share&list=UUDePVgpUWIrPFqh5_AxSzLA


Feel free to ask questions, comment, etc.

Edited by Ryan201821, 05 June 2013 - 05:47 PM.

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#3 DartSlinger

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 11:12 AM

You can probably avoid leaving marks on your aluminum plunger rod by sandwiching it in the vice between two pieces of wood.
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#4 Ryan201821

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 01:50 PM

You can probably avoid leaving marks on your aluminum plunger rod by sandwiching it in the vice between two pieces of wood.

I'll have to try that. My only question is if it'll grip well enough where the aluminum doesn't rotate.

===================

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I have this blaster for sale minus the 3d printed stock for anybody who is interested.
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#5 sodizzle3113

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 02:49 PM

You can probably avoid leaving marks on your aluminum plunger rod by sandwiching it in the vice between two pieces of wood.


I use a bent piece of 1/8in aluminum over the jaws of the vice to prevent marring up any work. Wood would probably do the same thing but I feel like it would crush around the part if you tighten it enough
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#6 ggk

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 09:20 AM

Have you considered using one of these oring lip seals underneath your bushing to increase seal on plunger rod?
Idk if it matters, I just wondered.
http://www.mcmaster....l-seals/=mxkh53
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#7 The Little Prince

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 04:55 PM

Just ordered the parts for this last night. Still not to clear on where the catch spring goes. Can someone provide pictures or a detailed explanation.
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#8 Ryan201821

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

Have you considered using one of these oring lip seals underneath your bushing to increase seal on plunger rod?
Idk if it matters, I just wondered.
http://www.mcmaster....l-seals/=mxkh53

Not really. The bushing seals pretty much perfectly, and an o-ring would probably just add more friction. Plus I don't really want to have to lube my plunger rod.

Just ordered the parts for this last night. Still not to clear on where the catch spring goes. Can someone provide pictures or a detailed explanation.

Right behind that piece of aluminum.

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Edited by Ryan201821, 27 May 2013 - 07:44 PM.

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#9 snakerbot

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 11:38 PM

Plus I don't really want to have to lube my plunger rod.


Yeah. Some pretty disgusting stuff happens when you lube the plunger rod.
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Note that this is from a different type of blaster. Obviously it uses a rainbow catch instead of Ryan's snapoid catch, but the layout is the same.
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#10 Stark

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 04:44 AM

Nice design, seems like the printing really streamlines the build process. Couple of questions. How well do printed parts hold air? It looked like there was space between some of the beads that the printer laid down and wondered if those are a concern. On a related note, it would seem that Inventor 2012 does not like your files, is there any way you could hook me up with a backward-compatible version? If not, I can just shoot from the hip on this. Basically the dead space with the swing wye and feeding wye makes me lactate liquid rage and boredom dictates that I fix it. 7x7x2 print window, right?
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#11 Ryan201821

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 11:57 AM

Nice design, seems like the printing really streamlines the build process. Couple of questions. How well do printed parts hold air? It looked like there was space between some of the beads that the printer laid down and wondered if those are a concern. On a related note, it would seem that Inventor 2012 does not like your files, is there any way you could hook me up with a backward-compatible version? If not, I can just shoot from the hip on this. Basically the dead space with the swing wye and feeding wye makes me lactate liquid rage and boredom dictates that I fix it. 7x7x2 print window, right?

The pictures shown of the pieces with major gaps in the top layers was pretty much my fault. The prints were too thick so I had to mill down one of the sides to get it to fit. So this is more of a fuck-up, than a concern.

As for the Inventor files, the new files aren't compatible with older versions. If you're still a student however, you can get Inventor for free from Autodesk.

The deadpsace concern is definitely warranted. Eventually I'd like to replace the swing wye with a printed part that eliminates more deadspace. The required print window for all of these parts is roughly 7x7x2", but we're capable of just a bit more in each axis.

Edited by Ryan201821, 29 May 2013 - 11:59 AM.

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#12 Lucian

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 06:19 PM

Printing right now, what infill did you guys use?
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#13 Ryan201821

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 05:48 PM

Depends on the piece bit usually about 15% infill.
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#14 azrael

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 04:32 PM

Very very cool. I have one thought, though...If it's 3D printed, why not design a more ergonomic handle? Is this just something designed to be universal, then? I know hand sizes vary a lot, so that would make sense.
Overall, very cool, really makes me think about building a homemade.
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#15 Ryan201821

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 05:30 PM

I didn't want to make anything too detailed since as you said, people have very different sized hands. I wanted something that anybody could use.

Also, Kane's printer doesn't do great precision and the support material on the bottom side looks really ugly before and even after cleaning it up. If we had a dual extruder printer that could print support material that wouldn't stick to ABS, I think we could do stuff in much greater detail without it being extremely difficult to deburr.
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#16 TheSilentRebel

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 06:46 PM

I just finished up a Latex Tubing Rainbowpup. It's doing alright, but I was wondering about is the tension of the latex on your blasters. Is there any pretension when the blaster is not primed? And also, what kind of knot do you have tied on the front of your tubing? As of now, I just have two granny knots but I'm sure there is a much better way of tying the latex up.
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#17 Ryan201821

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 12:47 AM

I just finished up a Latex Tubing Rainbowpup. It's doing alright, but I was wondering about is the tension of the latex on your blasters. Is there any pretension when the blaster is not primed? And also, what kind of knot do you have tied on the front of your tubing? As of now, I just have two granny knots but I'm sure there is a much better way of tying the latex up.

This is why the latex is so dicks to work with. You'll need a lot of pretension in order for it to perform well.

I don't know of any fancy way of tying knots with this stuff, so good luck.

Edited by Ryan201821, 03 June 2013 - 12:47 AM.

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#18 makeitgo

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 04:27 AM

Now that you've made and used quite a few of these, how many shots (estimated) can you get out of the latex bands before having to replace them?

And considering that, which do you prefer; latex bands or extension springs for your ESTL?

Have you tried or considered using therabands? They're flat bands preferred by slingshot enthusiasts.

...what kind of knot do you have tied on the front of your tubing? As of now, I just have two granny knots but I'm sure there is a much better way of tying the latex up.


Look up 'tying slingshot bands'. They've (slingshotters) pretty much got it down.

Edited by makeitgo, 04 June 2013 - 04:28 AM.

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#19 Langley

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 03:37 PM

You'll need a lot of pretension in order for it to perform well.


That's why Ice Nine is so good with them. Posted Image
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#20 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 03:56 PM

Now that you've made and used quite a few of these, how many shots (estimated) can you get out of the latex bands before having to replace them?

And considering that, which do you prefer; latex bands or extension springs for your ESTL?

Have you tried or considered using therabands? They're flat bands preferred by slingshot enthusiasts.

I really don't have any idea how long it takes for the latex to degrade to a point it's no longer usable. So far I've only used them in one or two wars which is a pretty small sample size. If I were to totally guess I would say they probably need to be replaced within a year assuming you nerf a lot, but I could be totally wrong.

Without knowing how long it would take to need to replace the latex, I still prefer the extension springs. They're extremely easy to install and do not have variable tension which is a nice thing when testing similar blasters looking for consistent results. I still do like the latex since it's a lot cheaper and quieter when firing, especially dry-firing.

I'll have to look into those therabands. They're actually slightly cheaper than latex tubing, plus might be a little bit easier to tie since they're flat. The only real drawback I can see is this isn't available at one of the normal places I'd get blaster supplies.
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#21 The Little Prince

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 05:42 PM

I have aquired all the parts except for the 1" pvc plug. I was wondering is this is the right type?Link

Edited by The Little Prince, 05 June 2013 - 05:43 PM.

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#22 Ryan201821

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 05:48 PM

I have aquired all the parts except for the 1" pvc plug. I was wondering is this is the right type?Link

It's actually supposed to be a 3/4" plug. I've corrected it in the OP.

You might also be able to get away with using a 1/2" one and hammering it into the swing x wye.
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#23 Lucian

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 02:20 AM

I just finished mine, it really wasn't too bad, asides from tensioning the band, and figuring out the best way to assemble the components...
Posted Image

I still need to adjust somethings, but that's whatever. Am I the first to follow the guide and make one of these?
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#24 The Little Prince

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 11:04 AM

Just completed the handle. I was wondering if a 1/2" pvc coupler could be used to plug the wye instead of the 3/4" plug?
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#25 cheerios

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 04:35 PM

Just completed the handle. I was wondering if a 1/2" pvc coupler could be used to plug the wye instead of the 3/4" plug?


You would still have a hole in the wye with a coupler. Also the plugs are a more efficient method.
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