16 replies to this topic

[jamesandyori]

Hello everyone. I have been modding since December and when I watched this video from ACnerfshop: I knew I could do it.

To make this blaster follow this video, I am not an expert at this stuff and ACnerfshop explained what to do very well without making me feel like an idiot.

Here is my "twist":

My objective here was to be able to shoot many different darts i.e., homemade, and stock darts. Committing such a blaster to just one barrel to shoot just one dart seems odd to me.

Here are some pics:





Thread barrel.


Barrel of choice.

Items needed:

1/2 inch cpvc male connector


1/2 inch cpvc female connector

I have been putting threaded ends on most of my modded blasters.

Any questions or comments?

Thanks,
James

[MAV13]

Why not just stick a CPVC coupler to it? That big 1/2" PVC coupler is nothing but dead space. I don't really understand why you'd want threaded barrels either, doesn't it take you like 15 seconds to reload? Nice NF anyhow.

[andtheherois]

You would have been better off using a single slip coupler instead, and buying different barrel materials to suit your darts. That would save you the hassle of unscrewing the barrel. It seems like you only introduced a lot of unnecessary dead space.

[The lord of fish]

I actually like this, I've been making nitefinder dick guns since 2007 but I think the biggest problem with using a single barrel configuration in one is that they like to shoot the barrel off. By adding a threaded barrel, he effectively solves the problem of fumbling on the ground looking for the barrel he shot off. If his gun is vacuum loading, then reload time is not much different than a slip couplered barrel(if not faster). However, a hopper and some slugs will make you much more competitive with everyone else's dick guns that have to shoot past the 100 penis mark.

Edited by The lord of fish, 24 March 2013 - 01:03 PM.

[ShaNayNay]

Here is my "twist"

Haha I get it.

So, I like what you are trying to do here. I also like my blasters being able to handle multiple barrel types. However, I've found that practically every single type of barrel can be made to fit into either a 1/2" CPVC or PVC coupler, whether it is for micros, megas, mongos, or missiles.

The cons to twisting are that sometimes the seal isn't perfect and air sneaks out, and it also can take longer to unscrew compared to slipping off a coupler.

Next time try lightly dremeling out a 1/2" PVC coupler on one end, and slipping half of a 1/2" CPVC coupler into that end then superglueing the two together. This does add a bit of dead space for barrels utilizing the PVC coupler, but I've found this method to work very well. I believe there is a writeup under the 4B section of the mod writeup directory. Hope this helps.

Edited by ShaNayNay, 24 March 2013 - 01:03 PM.

[jamesandyori]

I agree it's not the most efficient, and I might be leaking a bit but to me it's knida cool, like screwing together one of those loser rifles in the movies.

As for just using a coupler, I find the barrel does fly out after awhile, changing barrels like that weakens the connection. IMO.

As for the 1/2 inch coupler at that time I was following the video then I found that I need to reduce it somehow.

thanks,
James


Oh and thanks for the replies!

Edited by jamesandyori, 24 March 2013 - 03:39 PM.

[DartSlinger]

As for just using a coupler, I find the barrel does fly out after awhile, changing barrels like that weakens the connection. IMO.

Scoring the end of the barrel with pipe cutters prevents this. It is used on hopper connection stubs to prevent them from twisting and flying off, so it should work here also.

[The lord of fish]

Scoring the end of the barrel with pipe cutters prevents this. It is used on hopper connection stubs to prevent them from twisting and flying off, so it should work here also.

Problem with that, is by removing and re-inserting the barrel over and over, the ridge that was made will be worn down. NF rifles love to shoot barrels off, my +bow and SNAP never have had this problem.

Try putting some teflon tape on the threads in combination with silicone lube on the tape, should allow you to twist the barrel off faster and seal the leaks. Another suggestion might be to grind off some of the last threads, so you don't have to thread it as much.

[jamesandyori]

Problem with that, is by removing and re-inserting the barrel over and over, the ridge that was made will be worn down. NF rifles love to shoot barrels off, my +bow and SNAP never have had this problem.

Try putting some teflon tape on the threads in combination with silicone lube on the tape, should allow you to twist the barrel off faster and seal the leaks. Another suggestion might be to grind off some of the last threads, so you don't have to thread it as much.

Actually, I'm not under pressure to be quick.

This NF is only used on my breaks at work to just show to my buddy, or shoot bottles off my rear bumper. LOL

And when I do go to war it's against, my 5 year old and my wife keeps telling me I can't leave any marks so my high powered blasters are put away. LOL

James

[Tangerle]

Wow, I would've been no where close to doing this when I first started modding and heck, I recently barely can. That's punny.

Edited by Tangerle, 25 March 2013 - 11:13 AM.

[jamesandyori]

Wow, I would've been no where close to doing this when I first started modding and heck, I recently barely can. That's punny.

I watch a lot of youtube!

[Zorns Lemma]

I watch a lot of youtube!

That's not necessarily the best idea -- I just skipped through bits of that youtube video you linked, and it encourages some pretty awful habits such as trying to thread machine screws through an untapped, undersized hole in abrasion-resistant materials (you should use tapered screws with much larger thread count, like wood screws).

[jamesandyori]

That's not necessarily the best idea -- I just skipped through bits of that youtube video you linked, and it encourages some pretty awful habits such as trying to thread machine screws through an untapped, undersized hole in abrasion-resistant materials (you should use tapered screws with much larger thread count, like wood screws).

I actually didn't follow this video to the letter in regards to the hardware, I used what I had available.

James

Edited by jamesandyori, 26 March 2013 - 11:08 PM.

[DartSlinger]

Using a key ring to prime a blaster, especially one with a [k26] spring, is very uncomfortable. You could put a very comfortable T-handle on the end for about a dollar. Here is an example. (The photo is courtesy of Nerfomania.) It uses a bolt, an acorn nut, and two nylon spacers, all of which can be found at any hardware store.

Edited by DartSlinger, 26 March 2013 - 11:20 PM.

[jamesandyori]

Using a key ring to prime a blaster, especially one with a [k26] spring, is very uncomfortable. You could put a very comfortable T-handle on the end for about a dollar. Here is an example. (The photo is courtesy of Nerfomania.) It uses a bolt, an acorn nut, and two nylon spacers, all of which can be found at any hardware store.

Hummmm, that is a thought. Actually I'm in line for a Rainbow Blaster from Nerfomania so when it arrives I will be able to see the handle in real life.

As for the keyring, Drac was the one who did it in one of his videos. So, I like the compact look that it gives.

But I do have to say after 3 or 4 pulls I due feel my finger aching.

In what dept would nylon spacers be in?

James

[DartSlinger]

In what dept would nylon spacers be in?

Nylon spacers are in the hardware aisle, i.e., the aisle with all the bolts in it. The nylon spacers are usually in pull-out drawers. They are pretty easy to find, and if you can't locate them, the sales associates are usually pretty knowledgeable, especially in smaller stores such as Ace Hardware.

[jamesandyori]

Nylon spacers are in the hardware aisle, i.e., the aisle with all the bolts in it. The nylon spacers are usually in pull-out drawers. They are pretty easy to find, and if you can't locate them, the sales associates are usually pretty knowledgeable, especially in smaller stores such as Ace Hardware.

Ok I will check it out. Thanks.