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The RSCB/ Hopper Hybrid

A good option if you don't have access to pvc wyes for cheap.

15 replies to this topic

#1 The Snake

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 08:32 PM

While playing around with my new homemade AAbow with an rscb, I thought, how could I easily hopper this without a wye? I thought back to my previous attempts and thought I could do better. Then I looked over at my parts bin, and saw a peice of curving conduit pipe. I knew what I had to do. I now present... The RSCB/ Hopper hybrid. By the way, this could be a good option for people without access to pvc wyes.
First here is what you will be making:
Posted Image
What you need:
1/2 inch pvc( Length depends on how many darts you want to be able to hold but about 8 inches is good for a lot of darts)
1/2 inch cpvc( For barrel)
1 1/2 inch pvc Tee
1 1/2 inch pvc elbow
1 1/2 inch conduit curving pipe( I think its 45 degree)
1 1/2 inch pvc endcap

Ok first you are going to want to get your parts obviously. Then you want to put the tee and elbow like so:
Posted Image
Just like an rscb.
Then add the curving pipe like so:
Posted Image
It might be upside-down, but im sure you can figure it out,
Then you need to make the barrel. I would follow Captainslugs guide to making hoppers, just use his method for the barrel.
Posted Image
Then assemble and your done.
Posted Image

Conclusion:
This really surprised me when first used it, it fed just like a hopper. You may need to tip it down slightly every once in a while, but its not a big deal. The only downside i can think of with this is that It has a lot of deadspace like an rscb, but im sure with a good gun, everyone can get this to work. Also, you can tune this so the curving part is offset to the side so it doesn't impair aiming as much.
I sure hope this helps.

EDIT: After testing this design in a war (indoors) I found when I point this up it won't shoot. So It isn't as reliable as I thought. Although to fix that, you could get a check valve, and blow through the top if needed, but overall, this is just a prototype with a lot of work needed.

Edited by The Snake, 26 January 2013 - 02:12 PM.

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#2 bluzomby

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 08:36 PM

So would this mean that you wouldn't have to point the blaster down after every shot?
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#3 The Snake

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 08:49 PM

So would this mean that you wouldn't have to point the blaster down after every shot?

No. I did some testing recently and I have confirmed that every time you shoot, the next dart will slide int place just like a hopper. The only time this wouldn't happen is if you had a poorly made dart in there, and still all you have to do is point it down slightly. On another note, streamlines do not work with this.
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#4 Blue

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 08:59 PM

You have the exact same curve as a wye but instead of having the airflow come from behind the "clip" you have it coming in a section of... well, I don't really know if it's deadspace, but it's not part of the barrel or wye... Otherwise this would be the same as sticking a wye on a elbow attachment before sticking it on your blaster. No issues with double feeding?
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#5 The Snake

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 09:07 PM

You have the exact same curve as a wye but instead of having the airflow come from behind the "clip" you have it coming in a section of... well, I don't really know if it's deadspace, but it's not part of the barrel or wye... Otherwise this would be the same as sticking a wye on a elbow attachment before sticking it on your blaster. No issues with double feeding?

So far with my testing, I have not had any double feeding issues yet. I tested with slugs, hot glue domes, hot glue with bbs, and vinyl tubing slugs. All of these worked very well where the only problems that occured had to do with the dart and how poorly made they were. You could use a wye or something, but I don't really have one other than my crappy homemade one. For the most part, No real problems so far. Im going to keep testing though.

Edited by The Snake, 29 December 2012 - 09:09 PM.

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#6 atomatron

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 09:47 AM

Is this really the first time this has been done? I'm slightly disappointed in everyone except for snake.

If this works as well as you say it does it may provide Kane/Ryan with the solution to their feed problems with rubber headed darts, assuming the angle is low enough for the heads not to touch the side.
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#7 BiwinningPanda

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 11:07 AM

Is this really the first time this has been done? I'm slightly disappointed in everyone except for snake.

If this works as well as you say it does it may provide Kane/Ryan with the solution to their feed problems with rubber headed darts, assuming the angle is low enough for the heads not to touch the side.

Even if this doesn't have the correct angle needed for the rubber domes, carefully using a heat gun or hairdryer would allow you to adjust the angle. I'll see if I can make one of these with the materials I have lying around, and post my results.
Edit: So initial testing on my Sceptor with a similar setup as the OP, and 1" slug darts was pretty poor. I got a bunch of misfeeds and it took multiple high-powered shots at times to fire a single dart. The next thing I am going to try is adjusting the angle. Hopefully that will work better as these materials are WAY more accessible than wyes.

Edited by BiwinningPanda, 30 December 2012 - 11:19 AM.

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#8 ShaNayNay

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 01:03 PM

I feel as if the angle on one of these cancels out the ability to fire without tilting down (harder to fire and more unwieldy than a traditional RSCB). All I'm seeing is a hopper with the deadspace of an RSCB.
My knowledge with Physics wants to tell me that this current setup is not possible, because it seems like the force granted by the angle is not enough to cancel out the friction caused by the dart. Keep in mind by using a 1" slug, the slug only has only a one inch displacement to overall travel from its initial position, though the PVC T, to the final position at the tip barrel, a distance I believe to be greater than 1". This being said, and hopefully that makes sense, one will most likely need a steeper angle to make this works, if it is possible. I will pick up the necessary parts and try to make one of these as well so I'm not just sitting hear speaking empty words not backed up by facts/proof.

As for the deadspace, I typically trim down the elbow and bottom of the T and jam in the PVC all the way to reduce the dadspace as much as possible, so I would recommend something like that.

Great job on the thinking up something like this, and if you can get one of these to shoot consistently, I'm sure it will be a big advancement in regards to the RSCB design.

Edited by ShaNayNay, 30 December 2012 - 01:11 PM.

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#9 The Snake

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 01:14 PM

Ok guys, thanks for your feedback. So my results with testing this were successful in a way. First I tested with my underpowered snap bow. With about 6 darts, all different kinds, I successfully shot the first 4 without tipping down. The last two I had to tip the barrel down. Then I moved on to a 4b. Every shot was fired without having to tip the barrel down. The only problem I had was the first shot shot off two darts. Once I moved to my AAbow, I got the same results as the snap bow.Remember, this is a prototype for me. It is working good, but has some flaws. Feel free to add your feedback and test out with what you have. Thanks.
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#10 Carbon

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 01:17 PM

1" slug darts

That would most likely be your problem. Darts that short would allow two of them two chamber on the firing side of the air input...not to mention possibly falling into the tee junction. Try longer ones, or adjusting the air inlet so it's not coming from underneath (reducing the possibility of darts falling in).
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#11 The Snake

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 01:22 PM

That would most likely be your problem. Darts that short would allow two of them two chamber on the firing side of the air input...not to mention possibly falling into the tee junction. Try longer ones, or adjusting the air inlet so it's not coming from underneath (reducing the possibility of darts falling in).

Thats exactly what it is. I got a double feed when I had a 1'' dart chambered in this system.
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#12 Siriuslyharry

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 05:36 PM

This is the same as the GRSCB.
That's my input.
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#13 Exo

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 07:58 PM

This is the same as the GRSCB.
That's my input.

I was about to say, "Didn't I post this a few months ago?" I'm sure I put it on this site, too.

Oh, and about the double feeding/darts dropping into the L, I put a washer in the bottom of the T-joint and then put in the PVC that connects it to the L.

Edited by Langley, 30 December 2012 - 09:10 PM.

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#14 andtheherois

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:04 PM

If you're going to do this (for whatever reason), I would suggest using a street elbow. It'll cut down a bit on the dead space. Probably not enough to amount to any real gain but every bit helps. It'll also give you a lower profile.
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#15 quertyman

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 03:25 AM

I already tried this, but with my darts (beige slugs at 1.25") they will not pass through the curve because of their width. My old grey ace foam will fall through though.
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#16 The Snake

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 01:19 PM

I already tried this, but with my darts (beige slugs at 1.25") they will not pass through the curve because of their width. My old grey ace foam will fall through though.

Yeah thats the only issue I see with this. Maybe you could use 3/4 inch for the curvy part so it will slide through.
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