14 replies to this topic

[Peacemaker]

Pardon the question, but I'm at my wit's end and I have to ask.

I bought a Tek Six not long ago and have been pondering on how to improve its distance. I love the ROF that it provides, as the top-side cocking mechanism is very comfortable and allows me to rattle off all 6 shots in less than 5 seconds. Problem is, as I'm sure others who have purchased this gun can testify to, its distance is poor. A very short range sidearm.

I've clipped off the air-flow restrictors on the ends of the stems that the darts slide over, and that improved its range a little (about +/-25 ft total distance; 15 foot effective range). But after I opened it up I found myself at a loss as to what I could do with the guts of the gun to make it shoot farther. The internals (particularly the plunger and tube) are identical to those of the old SM 350s, which were notoriously weak guns. I know that multi-barreled sidearms are never known for their great range, and I'm sure that I could probably get a better range if I modded it into a single barrel gun. But then I would lose the 6-chambered, multi-shot functionality of the weapon (which is the selling point for me... I mean, if I wanted a good single shot sidearm, I'd hunt down a LnL or just stick with my Nite Finders).

Does anyone have any ideas of how I could mod the Tek Six for better range without sacrificing the ROF. If I can't improve the range, I guess I'll just remodel it's appearance to look more like an Old West six-shooter (it won't help it's performance, but it ought to look cooler).

Any help will be most appreciated.

Thanks.

[reversedracula]

The tek six suffers from a very weak spring. Its barrels are also too short to fire even standard micros. If you want a good Buzz Bee toy, get the Tek Ten. The range isn't much farther, but for almost as fast as a blastfire's semi-auto flurry, when you wield the Tek Ten (make sure you get the kind with round barrels) in an indoor war, you have spring-loaded fast recocking goodness to tear up your surroundings. I had a hexagonal Tek Ten and tried to single-barrel mod it. It's no chainblazer. You don't get shit for distance out of it as the spring isn't strong enough to force much energy to overcome barrel friction for the dart. If you're looking for a fast action repeating gun, I recommend doing some barrel mods on an AT3k, AT4k, or SM3k auto-rotator. If you need to fire quickly, on one pump you can get Tek gun distance on most crayola/piping mods on multi-barrel auto-rotators. Thus spake Reverse Dracula.

[Vintage]

Alright, I don't have the tek six, but I just picked up a tek ten at TRU a few weeks ago. I am going to brass barrel it, replace the spring or stretch the existing one, and make the seal between the plunger and the plunger tube better.

All these mods can be done to the tek six, I am sure. Hey, does anyone know whether the plunger tubes are the same size on both the six and ten guns?

~Vintage

[Crankymonky]

I believe the plunger tubes as well as the rest of the plunger system are the same. I didn't measure it, just eye-balled it. The rotating mechanism and case are what I believe are the only differences. I use rotating mechanism loosely-anything that doesn't help get air out of a hole.

Crankymonky

[seirus]

I repalced the spring and glued in crayola barrels. Sand down the barrel stubs all the way and you have a decent range high ROF handgun.

[reversedracula]

Once I get more crayolas and pick up a strong spring for the tek ten with those hexagonal barrels you folks always hear me complaining about, I'll post about if I get it to work. I tried some sanded down PVC barrels so they'd be small enough to fit nicely, but there wasn't enough force behind the dart to get it to leave the barrel... so we'll see what crayolas and a new spring do for my stock micros. The gun's pretty good for indoor stuff if you do manage to get one with circular barrels though. (I'm just randomly saying this again essentially to make sure no one else suffers split microdarts from the bad version tek ten.)

[THIRST]

Alright, I don't have the tek six, but I just picked up a tek ten at TRU a few weeks ago. I am going to brass barrel it, replace the spring or stretch the existing one, and make the seal between the plunger and the plunger tube better.

1. I doubt the darts would leave the barrel.
2. Nothing needs to be done to the spring, for the size of the plunger tube, its fine.
3. That plunger to plunger tube seal is not going to get any better, it already really awsome.

This gun, contradicting my article, has no potential.

THIRST

[NinjZ]

I say do it and tell us how it works out Vintage.

[Peacemaker]

Thanks for all your input. Sounds like my fears are being validated, and that I should just be content with the Tek Six as a multi-shot, high ROF sidearm (albeit an extremely short-ranged one.)

I'm curious. While I was originally pondering over the guts of the Tek Six, I figured about the only thing that I might could do to beef up the power would be to get a stronger, heavier-gauged spring. (Since, by the design of the gun and the concealed cocking mechanism its virtually impossible to use rubber bands to beef it up... at least not without seriously Frankensteining the gun). Can anyone suggest a good place to find such heavy-gauge springs? Any chain stores out there that are known to carry such thing in their sotck?

On a mildly related (but more likely an off topic) note, when it comes to rubber band mods, I'm in a quandry. I tried beefing up my Nite Finders with rubber bands to try and squeeze some extra footage out of their range. I strapped 6 good, strong rubber bands to them, but I didn't notice any discernable difference in their range, and they seeme to lose accuracy (i.e. the tail end of the darts wobble around in the air as they fly instead of shooting nice and straight). Any ideas on what my problem is? Am I using too much rubber-based power? Is there a certain trick to use rubber bands?

Again, thanks for all your help and suggestions.

[THIRST]

You could get a nice spring at Ace Hardware, Home Depot, or any other local hardware store.

The problem your having with banding is that you have too many, too powerful on. Your darts are fishtailing because the plunger is hitting the plunger tube too hard.

THIRST

[Vintage]

1. I doubt the darts would leave the barrel.

Maybe if you explained, I would understand this better. Why won't the dart leave the barrel?

As for my mod...I have to go run out for more brass. I have decided to brass everything I have, so I will need a whole lot.

Hopefully I should have more brass by the middle of the week.

~Vintage

[cxwq]

I have decided to brass everything I have, so I will need a whole lot.

Muahahahahaha! Welcome to the dark side.

Peacemaker, is your highly banded NF modded or stock? If modded, how?

[THIRST]

Maybe if you explained, I would understand this better. Why won't the dart leave the barrel?

As for my mod...I have to go run out for more brass. I have decided to brass everything I have, so I will need a whole lot.

The air delivery system is actually quite nice, I got a great plunger to plunger tube seal...The darts probobally wont even leave the barrel because there simply isnt enough air output to propel the dart through the brass(depending on how much friction your brass has on your darts).

Even if the darts left the barrel, I dont think they would reach 5 feet.

It may sound like Im discouraging you, I was earlier, now Im not. Go for it, prove me wrong, It will make me happy because I have a Tek 10 rotting in my closet!

My only advice to you is have the most direct air flow possible.

THIRST

[reversedracula]

He's not the only one to have a tek ten rotting in the closet. My hexagonal barrel one that I've removed the barrel shafts from and tried to mess with is also sitting in my closet. We're all counting on you! If it doesn't happen, I'll try some crude mod with crayolas and goop for stock ammo or something along those lines by the end of the summer. Whatever you do, you can't get anything with a frictional barrel to fire from that gun. Indeed, the slight friction from the STOCK HEXAGONAL BARRELS is enough to make the gun screw up. Long story short, I'm still griping about how those barrels such and how much better the round-barreled tex ten is.

[Peacemaker]

THIRST:

I'll experiment with fewer rubber bands on my NF. I've wandered around my local Lowes looking for springs, without much luck. I think I'll try my nearest Ace Hardware. Thanks for the tips.


cxwq:

I've got 3 NFs, and I've modded all of them. My mods are basically the same as those listed under the Mods section here on your wonderful site. I removed the air restriction features and replaced the barrels (2 of them with 4-5 inch barrels... a matched pair... and one with a longer 10 inch barrel). Unfortunately, I don't have access to PETG, and have had no luck in finding a store that has the brass tubing you guys are all so excited about, so I have to make do with regular 1/2" PVC. In my experimentations I have come up with a slight barrel mod variation. I find the regular 1/2" PVC is a tad bit too big in ID, and my darts fit loosely in the barrels. This works well for me when I have an extended barrel, as the long rifle barrels help to extend my range and accuracy (especially on my modded Max Shot nd Blast Bazooka), but the PVC doesn't give me an airtight seal on the darts by itself. So, in lieu of brass tubing, I use 3/8" copper pipe couplings. The couplings are only about 3/4" long and fit nice and snug around stock micro darts. I nest them at the inside end of the barrel (the end inside the gun and opposite of the mouth of the barrel.) This way, when I shove the darts all the way to the bottom of the barrel, they get an airtight fit, but the rest of the barrel is big enough to let the darts fly out smoothly (I tend to use primarily stock darts with the rubber tips in tact). It seems to work pretty well (though, from I all I've read, I'm sure it doesn't work as well as brass or PETG).