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Longstrike Titan Integration

Titan internals in a Longstrike..?

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#1 Eggroll

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 12:37 PM

Hey guys. This is my first post. I recently bought a Longstrike, but I thought that its power was totally contradicting its looks, so I decided to power it up. I know this has already been done multiple times. No, I'm not going to paint it. I don't usually paint any of my blasters.


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Step 1: Making space
-Remove all of the internals, but keep the piece near the end of the gun, the trigger, and the lower stock lock (found in the handle)
-Do what you want with them. We won't be needing any of it except for the trigger, the lower stock lock, and the orange tip thing at the front.


Step 2: Cutting the shell
-Cut out all of the ridges inside of the blaster except for the part at the end that holds the orange tip (for barrel extension), the pieces that hold the trigger in place, and the pieces that hold the lower stock lock. Be sure to cut the same things on both halves of the shell.
-You can leave the really low ones...
-Mine is messy because I do not have access to expensive tools and had to rely on using pliers to twist and bend out the pieces.
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Step 3: Finding a place for the air-tank
-I wanted to put the tank as far back as I could in order to make the trigger system easier. Yes, I realize that hotglue isn't the best solution for securing things, but I didn't have anything else.
-You can see the firing mechanism that I used. It's a simple L-bracket fastened to the trigger with a cut near the top to slide onto the pin of the tank.
-Due to space constraints, I had to cut the rest of my trigger.
-BE SURE TO PLUG THE HOLE THAT LEADS TO THE BLAST BUTTON. Leave only the pump hole, and the part where air comes out.
-Plug the OPV on the pump, and plug the pressure gauge hole.
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Step 4: Making more room...
After trying to put the darned thing back together, I realized that the tank was too large to fit in the stock shell. So I cut the shell (on the opposite side, of course. It makes it easier when dry fitting.)
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Step 5: Glue in the tank
-Exactly what it says. Glue in the tank, while making sure that the trigger still works. Also, make sure that the other half of the shell still fits without any problems.
-You can run the tube to the pump through the priming indicator hole in the back.
-Do what you want with the pump. I'm going to put it near the front.
-Yep. I used a hacksaw. Fehh...
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Step 6: Barrel and priming bar
-I guess it isn't really a priming bar anymore.. but whatever. Call it what you want.
-I used a 1/2" PVC tee, Sch 40 1/2" PVC pipe, Sch 80 1/2" PVC, and 1/2" CPVC for a barrel. Oh, and I also used a black nylon rod (same kind that was used in +bows) as my grip.
-The Sch 80 PVC is glued onto the end of the airtank. That is the only place where you will need it.
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Step 7: Stock modification
-I don't have pictures for it, but you need to cut off the top part of the stock that goes into the blaster (it interferes with the firing mech) and if you want it to be removable.... perform the removable stock mod.....

Step 8: Assembly
-Just reassemble your blaster. I'm not going to post barrel length, as I am still experimenting with it, but if you have a singled Titan, it should be able the same length.
-No, I am not going to post ranges. It should be fairly obvious that I get Titan ranges. And I don't have the tape measure required to measure it. :/
-At some point, I will use epoxy putty to attach the piece of shell that I cut off to make space for the airtank. THEN, maybe I will paint it.


Final Notes
Ugh, this project was pretty frustrating. The tank that I used was missing the connectors and such, so I had to fiddle around with hotglue and epoxy 'till it worked. Even now, I'm worried that
it won't hold. If you have any suggestions on how to fix this, do share. In the future, I'll be sure to get better tools. Quite frankly, I'm not patient enough to sit and make perfect cuts with a
hacksaw. Using a bandsaw would be easier. Although I wrote this as somewhat of a how-to, I feel that I wanted to show others what I had done and how I did it, as opposed to being a complete and
detailed guide on how to create something (yup, if you've somehow been so ignorant as to not notice it, I HAVE NO MEASUREMENTS POSTED). This project took me about 10 hours to finish (I'm new at this, cut me some slack).
Again, this is my first post, so if I'm doing anything wrong, please let me know how I can fix it in the future. My blaster is still working well, and has gone through some abuse.

If you want to see more random pics, go to my photobucket.

If you have any questions, feel free to post it here or PM me.

~Eggroll

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#2 hamoidar

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 01:14 PM

Good job! So correct me if I'm wrong, but other than the tubeing the pump is not connected to the gun? Can it can still use N-strike clips? Also, I would recommend using epoxy putty instead of hot-glue, you can find it at Lowes or Home Depot in the plumbing section. Overall a very nice gun/write-up.
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#3 Defender 7

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 01:23 PM

Nice, I did this to my Longstrike when I saw the "snowwhite" in a video on youtube. Nice way using the metal L bracket.
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#4 Eggroll

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 01:35 PM

Good job! So correct me if I'm wrong, but other than the tubeing the pump is not connected to the gun? Can it can still use N-strike clips? Also, I would recommend using epoxy putty instead of hot-glue, you can find it at Lowes or Home Depot in the plumbing section. Overall a very nice gun/write-up.


Thanks! Well, not yet, but I am going to fix it to the part where a foregrip would go. Unfortunately, it does NOT accept clips... though you could probably replace the tee with a wye and put a clip there. That would eliminate the need for opening the breech each time and reloading it. I'll look into that. The last time I used epoxy putty didn't turn out so well.. it was hard to mix together and it didn't adhere to anything. Also, it kept crumbling.... the packaging said 2 minute work time, and it started crumbling a few seconds after I opened it. Do you have a particular brand that you use?

Nice, I did this to my Longstrike when I saw the "snowwhite" in a video on youtube. Nice way using the metal L bracket.


That's great! Thank you. At first, I attempted to use wire in a pulley system, but realized that it caused too much stress on the shell, so I dropped that idea for a bracket design. :D
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#5 Nerfomania

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 01:41 PM

The last time I used epoxy putty didn't turn out so well..


Loctite all purpose Putty, Available at Walmart for $4 a tube. The only stuff I will ever use. Sticks good, is strong, and I think one of the best around. As always make sure you sand your glue joints for strength before applying adhesives.
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#6 Eggroll

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 01:45 PM

Loctite all purpose Putty, Available at Walmart for $4 a tube. The only stuff I will ever use. Sticks good, is strong, and I think one of the best around. As always make sure you sand your glue joints for strength before applying adhesives.


Thanks for the suggestion! This will create an airtight seal, won't it? I need to keep that tube connection functional.

Edited by Eggroll, 22 June 2012 - 02:20 PM.

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#7 Nerfomania

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 04:49 PM

Thanks for the suggestion! This will create an airtight seal, won't it? I need to keep that tube connection functional.



If you want a airtight seal use Plumbers Goop ($4 purple tube also at walmart) Takes 24-72 hours to dry but is usually a excellent sealant.
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#8 Eggroll

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 07:03 PM

If you want a airtight seal use Plumbers Goop ($4 purple tube also at walmart) Takes 24-72 hours to dry but is usually a excellent sealant.


Gotcha. Thanks again! I'll be sure to get quite a bit for my upcoming projects.
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#9 Jeo

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 05:24 AM

Nice! Seeing this reminded me to finally post my Longstrike/Titan intergration here.

What do you do with the pump?
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