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Rayven mod guide


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#1 Vanderwege021

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:41 PM

Things needed
Screwdriver
Soldering tool
Two sets of different colored wire
Pliers
Electrical tape or heat shrink
Rayven

This is in no way my original mod. It is simply a broken down write up of coops video tutorial.
1: Well of course first start off with your new rayven, open up that pretty box and prepare for mayhem.
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2: Once open remove all the screws and put them aside. I've found layin a small piece of tape to put the screws on is really convenient.
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3: Gently pry apart your blaster. Take note that near the handle in the bottom of the thumb hole it sticks so be gentle and slide something in. Once apart lay the side of the shell containing nothing aside.
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4: Next will be the removal of unnecessary electrical locks and wiring. I will only be keeping the rev switch so if you like your locks. Ignore this step. Slowly beginning with the jam door lock pull the wiring circuit up out of the blaster. Once you hit the battery area you will need your soldering tool to remove the wires soldered there.
Start here.
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Soldering tool to melt these loose.
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Should look something like this whe you're done.
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Once I had that done I went up to the motors. You will motive two yellow things running across each motor.
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Go ahead and snip those out carefully. They are basically like air restrictors for the motors. It weakens the amount of current able to pass to your motors.
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Now that that's done head down to your trigger area and make your final snip by the rev switch. Leave yourself a little wire though to work with.
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And that does it for removing the unnecessary wires. You should have a pile of wires that look like this.
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And a blaster that looks like this.
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5: Now is the time you will need to get out your different colored wires, different so you can tell positive from negative and we will begin replacing the circuit we just cut out. You always want to have to much wire opposed to to little.
You will want to cut a small piece to streach from the left leads on your motors, this will need to be the color wire you are indicating as positive. In my case yellow.
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Once cut to the appropriate length strip both ens of the wire along with a small space in the middle of the wire that we will need later. Then once your ready solder like so.
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Now cut your negative wire the same and repeat on the opposite side.
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6: At this point your blaster should hopefully resemble this.
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You are now ready to start running your positive and negative wires through the blaster. I started with positive leaving the motor from the positive side like so. I wrapped mine with electrical tape to keep it from touching anything.
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And then attach your negative wire.
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7: time to begin routing your wires. Take the positive and run it like so.
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And run your negative like this to one side of the switch.
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The run the remaining bit of wire fro the othe side of the switch to you negative battery terminal like so. And your circuit is complete and your rayven is ready to go!
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Now I will also show how to remove the mechanical trigger and clip lock. Simply remove these two screws by the trigger.
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Remove this nub from the spring loaded piece behind the trigger and replace it all.
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Now move to the rear of the blaster and locate this screw.
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Then completely remove and throw away what it holds in.
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Close up your blaster and if everything was performed correctly you should be able to well still turn on the blaster, and also pull the trigger or open the jam door whenever you want. Before someone says something, yes I know removing the restrictors and thermostat and flux capacitor and whatever else lol, can cause harm to the motors, but seriously that woul take someone holding that rev trigger for like 10min and if you do that you deserve to have it fry. Look for more add ons to this rayven! I actually have a lot planned for it.

Edited by Vanderwege021, 03 May 2012 - 07:17 AM.


#2 kidame tomanaka

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 12:07 PM

I could never tell what the yellow wires were leading to the motors, thermo resistors? and now that they were removed, what kind of voltage and amperage are you running at now?

FIXED-my grammar was vomiting that day.

Edited by kidame tomanaka, 01 May 2012 - 12:57 PM.

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#3 Vanderwege021

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 03:06 PM

i ould never tell what the yellow wires were leading to the motors, thermo resistors? and now that they were removed, what kind of voltage and amperage are you running at now?

You are getting the full output unrestricted from your battery supply.

Edited by Vanderwege021, 01 May 2012 - 04:18 PM.


#4 kevne

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 04:09 PM

Very good writeup.

i ould never tell what the yellow wires were leading to the motors, thermo resistors? and now that they were removed, what kind of voltage and amperage are you running at now?


They are just standard resistors, not thermistors. I forget what impedance they are. There is also a capacitor and a diode in the handle below the trigger.

It's a common misconception that the Rayven contains thermistors.

Edited by kevne, 30 April 2012 - 04:10 PM.

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#5 Seprest

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 04:50 PM

 Nice catching those resistors!  Do you have any before/after range estimations to see if removing them actually increased the blasters range without a voltage mod?  I've hated that there was no mod to really increase the range on the Raven without buying materials for a voltage mod. 

Edited by Seprest, 30 April 2012 - 04:51 PM.

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#6 Vanderwege021

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 04:18 PM

 Nice catching those resistors!  Do you have any before/after range estimations to see if removing them actually increased the blasters range without a voltage mod?  I've hated that there was no mod to really increase the range on the Raven without buying materials for a voltage mod. 

Yeah I haven't really measured with tape but the higher rpm of the motors/flywheels sounds promising and menacing at the same time. I'll try to test it with fresh batteries when the weather clears up.

#7 AbstractSociety

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 01:33 AM

If I up my voltage, should I bother removing the resistors? Can I remove them without having to rewire/solder anything?
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#8 Vanderwege021

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 07:09 AM

If I up my voltage, should I bother removing the resistors? Can I remove them without having to rewire/solder anything?

In any case it is entirely up to you. Removing them just allows you to get everything out of your batteries. And yes if you remove them you MUST rewire where they were to complete your circuit. Without it no power will go to your motors.

#9 Coop

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 06:23 PM

removing the restrictors and thermostat...

Is this a typo or do you have some weird shit going on inside your Rayven?

Funny timing, I posted a video tutorial of every modification you covered here in a very similar presentation just three days before this thread appeared. LINK
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On the other hand, the guy who posted before me used the word 'fuck' a lot so he probably knows what he's talking about.


#10 MattTheSasquatch

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 07:53 PM

Is this a typo or do you have some weird shit going on inside your Rayven?

Funny timing, I posted a video tutorial of every modification you covered here in a very similar presentation just three days before this thread appeared. LINK

Not to make you look stupid, but in the original post after the "things needed" section, he directly credited your video for the write-up. Just he did it with pictures and text, not a video.
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#11 Vanderwege021

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:01 PM

Not to make you look stupid, but in the original post after the "things needed" section, he directly credited your video for the write-up. Just he did it with pictures and text, not a video.


I said before I started it that it was based off of your video. It's up at the top coop

#12 Coop

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 07:03 AM

Well that's what I get for skipping the introduction to tutorials :P
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#13 Vanderwege021

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:08 AM

Well that's what I get for skipping the introduction to tutorials :P

Lol it's all good. How'd I do in replicating? And do you have any tips in soldering? I swear I'm awful and had to do the motor wires a few time.

#14 Coop

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:50 AM

Lol it's all good. How'd I do in replicating? And do you have any tips in soldering? I swear I'm awful and had to do the motor wires a few time.

I learned how to solder from guides on YouTube. I wouldn't consider myself very good at it, so I can't offer any tips. But watching other people actually solder in video helped me pick up the technique, so I'd suggest looking on YouTube for guides.
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#15 Vanderwege021

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 09:04 AM

I learned how to solder from guides on YouTube. I wouldn't consider myself very good at it, so I can't offer any tips. But watching other people actually solder in video helped me pick up the technique, so I'd suggest looking on YouTube for guides.

Yeah I'll do that. Lol it's like the solder hates the wire and beads up and just rolls off.

#16 Langley

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 10:29 AM

If you keep the tip of your soldering iron clean and tinned with a little bit of solder, you should be able to heat the wire by applying even pressure. Once the wire is hot, you should be able to get the solder to melt directly onto the wire (not onto the soldering iron!) and it will wick onto the joint you've made between your components. As far as caring for your iron, I like to use a brass sponge to periodically clean off the tip as I work, but you can use a wet kitchen sponge as well. You can get tip tinner/cleaner compound from radio shack that sticks to the tip a little better than solder and helps keep things clean. If you have rust, oxidation, or permanently burnt-on material on your iron you may want to get a replacement tip for it, or even a brand new iron. Again, check Radio Shack. If you take care of your iron, it will make it much easier to transfer heat to your work.
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#17 Vanderwege021

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:44 PM

This ^^^ is THE single most important tip for new people learning to solder.

Do not let the solder for the joint get melted by the heat source directly. Heat the objects to be soldered, and bring the solder in only when they are hot enough - preferably a little more than hot enough. This causes the solder to get pulled into the joint by capillary action, and to "wet" the objects for a full bond. When this is not done properly, you can get what is called a "cold" solder joint, which may hold mechanically, but doesn't make good contact (i.e., there's too much electrical resistance in the joint).

Exception: If there isn't already a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the iron, melt a little solder onto the tip, this is called 'tinning' the tip, as Langley also mentioned. Then tap or wipe off any excess that will come off easily. This solder will stay on the tip in liquid form and will spread just slightly when the tip touches another object. This spreading will greatly improve how well heat transfers from the tip to the object.

I've been watching YouTube tutorials and in the ones I have seen the soldering iron comes to a blunt almost chisel tip. Mine is more of a pin tip and is more pointed. Is there a difference? And off the topic, if I have more to add to this blaster do I make a part 2 in a new thread so it will appear new? Do I edit my original post or do I add the content in a comment/reply?

#18 Langley

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:08 AM

You don't want to use the tip of the iron, you want to use the side of the tip so you can have a larger surface area for heat transfer.

If you are just adding material to the same writeup you can add it in a reply or edit it into the first post and note the change in a replt
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#19 Vanderwege021

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:46 AM

Stage 2
[b]Things needed[/b
Solder+Soldering iron
Two sets of colored wire(if performing in sequence to stage 1 use the same colored wire)
Pliers
Barricade motors
Screwdriver

1:Okay if you're following from stage 1 your blaster should be ready for you to just swap motors and you can just skip to step. If not you will want to open up your rayven like so. And then remove the solder on your motor leads so you can remove the motor set easily.
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2:Gently remove the motor set and unscrew the casing. There are 4 clips holding it together so just gently push those in so the two sides come apart. There is also a screw on top that holds the rubber flap on that needs to be removed.
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3:Flip over your motor set so your fly wheels are facing up and carefully pry up on them with a screw driver or anything you want, I used a pair of spread apart scissors so that the fly wheels pop off of the spindle.
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4:Now flip that over pull off the rubber pieces and keeping in mind where the positive and negative leads(positive front negative rear) are and remove your motors.
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5:Take your barricade motors still paying attention to the orientation of them so it will actually shot a dart because both fly wheels will be pushing the dart out not spinning in opposite directions. Place them in their new rayven housing, push the fly wheels back on and close up the housing around it and replace all of the screws.
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6:Now we're on the home stretch. Resolder your positive and negative leads as stage 1illustrates. And replace your internals into your blaster then close it up.
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If done correctly you will notice the sound of the higher rpms and you will notice a range increase of anywhere from 5-20ft from stock. I've noticed the better your solder points are the better the flow of electricity is in turn adding to the power of the blaster.

Edited by Vanderwege021, 05 May 2012 - 01:25 PM.


#20 RedHawK

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 12:32 PM

Thanks for the post, i watched coop's video, but i couldn't really see what he was doing.
I think i can do this now :D

Edited by RedHawK, 27 August 2014 - 01:47 PM.

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