2 replies to this topic

[texmustache]

Okay, i finally get how it works...let me share it with you:
Pictures will be up sometime.
http://www.freewebs....alcreations.htm
the file text is white, just under the text Wf/RF20 valve: the movie. you may need to highlight it. it's a rar, if someone needs a zip, reply.
The Design:
Inside the valve, there is two main components, which i will call a stopper and a plunger. If you look at it, the plunger is the part at the back, and the stopper is the part at the front. The plunger is attached to a spring, and has bolt which runs through the stopper.

Stage 1:
Air goes into the valve. This pushes the plunger back.
Stage 2:
Plunger is nearly fully compressed.
Stage 3:
Plunger is completely compressed
Stage 4:
The bolt that runs from the plunger to the stopper goes all the way back. This pulls the stopper out of place.
Stage 5: Plunger shoots forwards: The air goes out, and the valve is back to default:

How this might be make-able:
You valve is incased in 1" CPVC. At one end there is a 1"-3/4" reducer. A piece of 1/2" CPVC runs through this. At one end of the CPVC, there is a 5/8" rubber gasket, attached to a bolt that runs pass the gasket. The stopper is another piece of 1/2" CPVC, with small fins to make it slide in the 1" CPVC. There is a 1/2" Gasket at the end. At the stopper end of the 1" CPVC there is a 1"-1/2" reducer. At the other end of the stopper, there is a washer glued to it. However, before the washer is glued, a small hex nut is put inside it, attached to the bolt. Air is put in...somewhere. Perhaps the gasket could be swapped for an o-ring.

Edited by texmustache, 29 May 2004 - 10:26 PM.

[Vintage]

Interesting. I have studied the rapidfire 20 valve with great scrutiny, and that is the model for my auto homemade.

However, I don't understand the part where you describe how to make it out of cpvc. I am using brass, because of all the layers it offers. I will have to re-read your post on your website. And I will have to watch the movie.

Anyways, thanks for the post. I might give it a shot if I can figure the plans out and they look feasible. Especially since cpvc is cheaper than brass and doesn't need to be soldered.

~Vintage

Edit: Ok, I understand now. Two problems:

1. How on earth would you find an o-ring/gasket that would seal the 1/2" cpvc in the 1" cpvc. That's alot of room to seal, unless I am mistaken.

2. This design is not automatic. The system has no way of cycling forward to chamber another dart. I can think of way to make it automatic, but the process would be a little hard to explain.

Anyways, you gave me a good idea concerning my own design. Thanks.

Edited by Vintage, 29 May 2004 - 10:53 PM.

[BoltMasterZero]

Wait, would this valve constantly turn the air flow on and off? If so my old semi-auto design might work quite nicely for this.