The reason why I'm doing this is because I think that this is a really under-rated blaster. It's small, full auto, 20 rounds and with a volt mod good ranges and great rate of fire.
Internal pics:
Mods Covered
-How to get the damn thing open
-Volt mod
-Thermistors
-Motor/flywheel upgrade
-Drum Swap
-Nerf dart comparability
Getting it open:
-The stock butt plate
This is the only thing glued on. If you are going to cut the stock off just make that the first thing you do and you wont have to deal with it.
If you want to keep it you can hold the piece in boiling water till the glue softens enough to pry it off but wedging a thin flat head into the crease.
-Motor housing rod
Be careful not to lose any of the pieces from this assembly. Nothing is going to shoot out or anything but all those little round pieces in there that and drop and roll away. Remove this first so you can separate and work on the front and back parts of the gun individually.
*when unscrewing there is 1 screw under the sticker on the here
When you get it open get rid of the orange thing, it's to keep kids from shoving their finger in there and actually can cause really bad misfires
Volt Mods:
There are several ways of doing this. The best way by far IMO is to just get 3 AA Li-Ion batteries like Ultrafires or Trustfires.
Other cheaper ways include;
-larger battery trays
-9V connector(s)
-RC battery connectors
Range and RoF are both totally dependent on voltage.
If you want to use a large battery pack like RC batteries you might want to consider leaving the stock on and using it to hold the pack.
There is space for more batteries in the shell but be careful if you are moving the stock one, it has the switches for the flywheels and the pusher on its screw posts.
Thermistors:
These things are meant to protect the motors from overheating. The longer the circuit is active the hotter they get. The hotter they get the more resistance they give to the circuit until it shuts down completely. these things seem to not give very much resistance until they totally shut down the blaster.
2 of them coming off the back of the battery tray.
The round one is for the flywheels, the square one is for the pusher.
For some reason the flywheel one has always totally killed that circuit before the pusher even seems to be effected at all.
Remove these are your own risk. A good way around them is to just install an on off switch that circumvents the thermistor.
Flywheel/Motor upgrade:
The URB motor set up fits right into the slot in the T20A.
The URB beats the rayven in stock feet per sec, AND that is with the rayven running with 33% more power.
To install them all you need to do is clip this contact thing from the T20A motors and put them on the URB motors and slide them into place.
***If you do this because of the smaller diameter of the flywheels it will no long shoot buzzbee darts.
Drum Swap:
All you need to do is cut off the flat part on the end of this metal peg and you have yourself a swappable drum. That or if you are pretty strong you can just pull it with some pliers.
OK so believe it or not normal tommy 20 drums don't even need to be modded to be swappable. The only downside is those can't be manually advanced.
Nerf Dart compatibility:
Nerf darts are slightly longer than BB darts so you are going to need to chop off the wall between the darts and the wheels.
With the stock drum you can probably even get away with sanding down the wall if you really wanted to as long as you have the darts pushed all the way back.
With the tommy 20 drum you will have to cut it off, the darts sit farther up for some reason.
Putting 1 or 2 layers of etape around the flywheels will allow the blaster to fire streamlines
A few things:
1 When putting it back together if the main part of the shell doesn't want to close, pull the trigger to set it into position. When it's opened the mech that keep it from jamming between shots can get out of alignment pretty easy.
2 This blaster is completely dependent on the volt mod. Without it it's not worth messing with.
3 The gun torques from the drum turning. At higher voltages this can actually get so bad that it can cause some funky tail spin on the darts. To avoid this hold the blaster firmly.
4 Some people like to chop off the front "grip". The reason why I kinda like having it on is to get a better grip and stop the fore mentioned tail spin.
Edited by Darthrambo, 07 April 2012 - 08:39 PM.
