#1
Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:15 AM
#2
Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:33 AM
#3
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:34 AM
Your first 100 darts will suck - that's a given. Your next 1,000 will probably be mediocre. But after that, everything is groovy.
#4
Posted 27 March 2012 - 08:09 AM
Could you post some pictures of your darts? That might help us target our advice. What MattTheSasquatch said about dart fit is critical. ANeeds to be tight.
Your first1500 darts will suck - that's a given. Your next 1,000 will probably be mediocre. But after that, everything is groovy.
FTFY
A few thoughts:
- I've had a difficult time centering BBs, especially 2BB darts. 3BB is ~1g, which seems to be a 'magic number' as far as dart mass goes. However, 3BB often leaves exposed metal.
- You didn't mention your foam source. Sad news is, just about every over-the-counter FBR I've purchased in a brick-n-mortar store sucked.
- I've found FBR to be too flexible for darts longer than 1.5". After all, it's designed to be pliable.
- I've found CPVC (not PVC CPVC) to be excellent barrel material.
- 17/32" brass is also good, but very expen$ive.
- Your blasters are all springers, so PETG will likely be too loose. If your darts are snug in PETG, they won't work with anyone else's barrels. FTL
- Personally, I'd recommend #6 washer + felt tip heads, called 'Slugs' after its creator, CaptainSlug. Much easier to make.
#5
Posted 27 March 2012 - 10:31 AM
1/2" Foam Backer Rod from Lowes
#6 Washers from Walmart
1/2" Adhesive backed felt pads (Green seems the best color. It isn't as fluffy) from McMaster.
Also, my Slugs are 1.25" long. I personally think 2.5" is WAY too long for stefans.
Edited by TagMaster247, 27 March 2012 - 03:45 PM.
#6
Posted 27 March 2012 - 01:07 PM
#7
Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:12 PM
Langley made a very comprehensive one many years ago. I recommend it to anyone trying to make glue dome stefans for the first time, but like so many above, I prefer slugs.It occurs to me that there are no decent writeups for stefans. Maybe IceNine should step up to the plate:
Ice's look fantastic though, so I definitely wouldn't object to a write-up from him too.
EDIT: Rereading the guide, it does have some dated conventions, like drilling holes in the backs of darts and making them 2" long. Not to say it's bad, it just wasn't made in the age of the hoppered homemades. So maybe a whole new write-up would be useful.
Edited by Ivan S, 27 March 2012 - 02:56 PM.
~Talio
#8
Posted 27 March 2012 - 02:23 PM
Now that the required dickishness is out of the way, the recommended length for darts is between 1" and 2". Anything below 1" is usually illegal, and once you get colse to and beyond 2", nasty things happen to range and cost. Those domes shown are of magical quality, but I have a few tips to get close to that.
#1: Get a container of cold water.
#2: Make a dome, then hold it upside down. This will push the glue into a less-flattened shape. With a bit of practice, they will become a bit smoother and more predictable.
#3: Once the dome is in the shape you want it to be (nicely domeish) dunk the dome (try not to get the foam) in the water for a second or two. Symmetrical shapes for the somes are required for accuracy. If they are lopsided, they will act like streamlines and curve all over the place, maybe even more than streamlines.
Edited by Exo, 27 March 2012 - 02:24 PM.
#9
Posted 27 March 2012 - 03:46 PM
How did you make such beautiful glue domes without the glue spilling over?It occurs to me that there are no decent writeups for stefans. Maybe IceNine should step up to the plate:
#10
Posted 27 March 2012 - 03:57 PM
#1: Get a container of cold water.
#2: Make a dome, then hold it upside down. This will push the glue into a less-flattened shape. With a bit of practice, they will become a bit smoother and more predictable.
#3: Once the dome is in the shape you want it to be (nicely domeish) dunk the dome (try not to get the foam) in the water for a second or two. Symmetrical shapes for the somes are required for accuracy. If they are lopsided, they will act like streamlines and curve all over the place, maybe even more than streamlines.
That's what I have done whenever I make domes. They are great and cheap, but if you mess up on the dome part, you might as well throw it out, because it will more or less curve whenever you fire one with an improperly made dome. As I've mentioned before, I personally think Slugs are the way to go. They are pretty cheap, easy to make, and are very good range and accuracy-wise. Really it's personal preference, though.
#12
Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:42 PM
#13
Posted 27 March 2012 - 10:28 PM
I tried the drinking straw, but be warned that higher powered blasters such as 4Bs will cause the dart to eject the straw.
Another method to making glue domes is to glue a #6 washer to the FBR, set it aside until it's cool, then form the dome atop the washer. You can also use #8 washers, but you'll likely still be able to see the metal edge.
#14
Posted 28 March 2012 - 11:06 AM
Please do that in a well-ventilated space. The fumes from melted FBR can't be good for you.
I tried the drinking straw, but be warned that higher powered blasters such as 4Bs will cause the dart to eject the straw.
Another method to making glue domes is to glue a #6 washer to the FBR, set it aside until it's cool, then form the dome atop the washer. You can also use #8 washers, but you'll likely still be able to see the metal edge.
I believe these are not allowed at some wars, though. Also, make sure that you *make a hole in the "blank" before you slap the washer and felt pad on!* This increases the life of your Slugs.
Edited by TagMaster247, 28 March 2012 - 11:08 AM.
#15
Posted 28 March 2012 - 11:58 AM
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