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Brassed Recon

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#1 Blue

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 12:51 AM

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Start by removing these pieces. To get the boltsled off stick a paper clip in the connection point until the pin pops out. Throw away the two lock pieces, save the springs for spares if you want.

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Use pipe cutters to cut the breech along the seam. You don't have to cut it at that particular point if you find another easier.

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Sand out the back end until the 17/32 brass can fit through; then cut the front part and use 17/32 brass wrapped in some sandpaper to sand it out until the brass fits snugly in the half piece without warping it. Be sure to mark where the barrel part ends on the front part so you know where to cut the brass later.

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Sand your piece of brass so the glue can adhere better and superglue it in the back piece. It doesn't matter how big your piece of brass is as long as it's at least long enough to clear the entire breech.

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Then glue the top piece to the brass. Make sure it is pressed as far back as possible, as the original dimensions must be followed.

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Bust out your cutting disc and get to work on shaping the brass. Make sure to SAND... lots of sanding. Use the dremel sanding stones on the rough parts then clean it all up with a file. It is especially important to get the pointy part of the brass very smooth and level as to not stab the darts as they come out of the clip. Also important is to get the barrel part of the brass the right length and smooth; if it is too long or if it's too rough on the darts you will have feeding problems. Be sure to test it out thoroughly.

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And you're done.

I've done this mod on Raiders, Deploys, Longstrikes, and Recons so far with excellent results. I'd guess the range doubled, maybe more. I've sold a few of these to non NIC people and they liked them a lot.

Anyways, hopefully this will help anyone out who wants to have more fun with their reverse plunger blasters. Still safe to shoot indoors and they don't hurt at all, but with the increase in range/velocity it makes things more fun. Questions or comments?
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#2 Exo

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 01:33 AM

Well, official ranges are nice, but I'm just glad to see a non-wtb thread, and even better, a cleanly done write up. We haven't gotten a lot of those recently. I would have done some stuff differently, like using epoxy glue and clamping it, but I didn't do the write up.

Clean looking, in any case.
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#3 Swiftone1990

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 01:38 AM

... you just added more to my work load... very nice. did you cut down the front part just so you wouldn't need to sand the whole thing out?
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#4 Blue

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 03:41 AM

Well, official ranges are nice, but I'm just glad to see a non-wtb thread, and even better, a cleanly done write up. We haven't gotten a lot of those recently. I would have done some stuff differently, like using epoxy glue and clamping it, but I didn't do the write up.

Clean looking, in any case.


I always hold pieces I'm gluing with super glue together as tight as I can for a good 30 seconds to ensure a good bond. As far as epoxy glue, I've never used it but it sounds like it would be difficult to control, messier, and take a lot longer to dry/cure. Considering superglue is often what is used on heavily modded longshots with springs multiple times stronger than a stock recon spring, I don't think I'll be having any troubles with it. It's so clean because you don't have to make any tubular cuts in the brass. Thanks for the alternatives though.

As far as ranges, maybe 50 feet? With streamlines darts just go all over the place.

... you just added more to my work load... very nice. did you cut down the front part just so you wouldn't need to sand the whole thing out?


Yes, that is exactly why I did it. Thanks!
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#5 Pause

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 05:10 AM

Do you find that it jams a lot?
I know that streamlines vary a a lot. (i.e. Sometimes they are fat, other times they are just old and bendy)
Also, OMW has a similar brass breech design.
But other than that, great mod!
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#6 The Nerfaholic

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:32 AM

Forgive me if these seems noobish, but could you do this with cpvc?
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#7 Bchamp22795

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:51 AM

Forgive me if these seems noobish, but could you do this with cpvc?


No. 17/32" is the outer diameter of the brass used. CPVC has an outer diameter of 5/8" which is a bit larger. If you use CPVC, the top piece of the bolt wouldn't fit on the CPVC like it does here, and the CPVC wouldn't fit into the breech because they are pretty much the same size. I mean, you can always try replacing the entire bolt with CPVC like in a Sodizzle Style Longshot...but I'm not sure how well it would work with the reverse plunger and lower powered spring, etc. Not to mention that streamlines probably wouldn't slide in well. I would stick to brass, it only costs a couple more dollars and works much better.
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#8 Curly

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 02:39 PM

I was surprised to see that we didn't have a writeup for the breech, but no longer. For attaching the nub I would drill out the nub and it's barrel instead of cutting the hub off. ACNerfShop on youtube does that with their longshots and they say they've had better luck doing that instead of cutting the nub.
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#9 Blue

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 06:49 PM

Do you find that it jams a lot?
I know that streamlines vary a a lot. (i.e. Sometimes they are fat, other times they are just old and bendy)
Also, OMW has a similar brass breech design.
But other than that, great mod!


I've never had a jam, but I'm sure it's possible if you don't properly sand it out. I would hesitate to do this mod on something like a stampede because of how fast it moves, not sure how well it would go over in the long term. Cocking the blaster feels a bit strange compared to a stock recon because the darts resist being pushed into the tighter brass barrel more than they would in the loose plastic barrel of a stock one.
I'm sure OMW has plenty of mod kits... but they cost quite a bit of money. I would guess this mod cost a total of $3 or less since you use less than half a stick of brass.
Thanks!

Forgive me if these seems noobish, but could you do this with cpvc?


Bchamp is right on all counts.

I was surprised to see that we didn't have a writeup for the breech, but no longer. For attaching the nub I would drill out the nub and it's barrel instead of cutting the hub off. ACNerfShop on youtube does that with their longshots and they say they've had better luck doing that instead of cutting the nub.


Drilling such thin plastic is very, very easy to mess up in case you haven't tried it. Like I said before... it's a recon, no need to go overkill with a complicated procedure that is quite likely to destroy the whole blaster. Plenty of longshot mods use just the top half of the bolt just fine, the one longshot I have with the bolt thing drilled out does not feed properly.
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#10 Hammy

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 07:57 AM

Yes looks good, I have a piece of 17/32 at home, so I will try out this mod on the raider that is no l0onger used.


I wonder how it will perform with my Xpower Stefan clip and blue-silli tip darts.
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#11 Bchamp22795

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 12:44 PM

I'm surprised you didn't put this in the directory. You should. I found it much more useful than any other brass breech writeup.
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#12 Swiftone1990

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 01:46 AM

alright, as I am now attempting this, I have to ask you what you used to sand out the back part.
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#13 Blue

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 11:24 AM

I'm surprised you didn't put this in the directory. You should. I found it much more useful than any other brass breech writeup.


I'll be updating the directory shortly, thanks!

alright, as I am now attempting this, I have to ask you what you used to sand out the back part.


I first used a cutting bit (Straight metal rod with ridges on the end) and went around in circles a few times until the AR was sufficiently destroyed, then I went in with a grinding stone bit (Mix of cone and the little drum). The back part behind the entire AR assembly needs no sanding to fit the brass so as long as you don't mess up getting to that point the brass will be aligned by the back part.

EDIT: Missed this...

Yes looks good, I have a piece of 17/32 at home, so I will try out this mod on the raider that is no l0onger used.


I wonder how it will perform with my Xpower Stefan clip and blue-silli tip darts.


This breech will NOT work with stefans, unless they are 3 inches long. 3 inch long stefans is definitely something worth trying out though. The way clip fed blasters are modified to shoot stefans all involve the dart being pushed forward into a new barrel by what was originally the stock barrel; with the current setup that still uses the dart tooth to push darts in the barrel the dart tooth will be disengaged by the breech well before the much shorter stefans make it to the barrel.


Also, question for all of you...
Does sanding out the back part so that the breech does not have the air flow hole thing in the middle anymore make a significant difference in range? Sorry to be so vague, I don't know if it has a name, but it's what the spring for the AR rests on. I'm just curious as to what others have found.

Edited by Blue, 20 January 2012 - 11:34 AM.

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#14 Swiftone1990

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 12:09 PM

I don't think it would help much if it does. That part was almost gone in mine anyway, due to the ARs being drilled out.

Edit: So... after doing this mod, don't try to load a clip with the breech closed. I snapped the front plastic off two separate times now. Firing it where the breech just smacks into the dart does get about 15 foot range though.

Edited by Swiftone1990, 20 January 2012 - 04:21 PM.

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#15 Blue

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 08:34 PM

I don't think it would help much if it does. That part was almost gone in mine anyway, due to the ARs being drilled out.

Edit: So... after doing this mod, don't try to load a clip with the breech closed. I snapped the front plastic off two separate times now. Firing it where the breech just smacks into the dart does get about 15 foot range though.


Yeah... it functions just like a stock recon in terms of use so you will do bad things if you load clips with the breech open.
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#16 Guitarzan

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 09:36 PM

Does the breech design of a recon (and all CS guns) work well with stefans after it has been brassed like this?
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#17 Pause

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 11:30 PM

Does the breech design of a recon (and all CS guns) work well with stefans after it has been brassed like this?


I would assume that they wouldn't, unless your stefans are as long as normal stock darts.
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#18 Guitarzan

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 12:35 AM

I would assume that they wouldn't, unless your stefans are as long as normal stock darts.

Yeah you're probably right. The mechanism that seats the dart wouldn't be condusive to stefans. An angel breech may forever be the only way to accomplish this with a CS gun :(
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