9 replies to this topic

[Direwolf]

I Have heard alot of people say the LFG has no modding potential, and that it has crap range. I am going to attempt to change that veiw.
We all know how to do the maverick double spring mod (hopefully).

All you need to do is cut of the un-needed part of the reverse plunger.
So instead of this

I------------------------I
I------------------------I------I
I------------------------I------I
I------------------------I

You have this

I------------------------I
I------------------------I---I
I------------------------I---I
I------------------------I

Sry about the lack of a propper image
This leaves enough room to penny mod the gun. I did this and it has a lot bigger effect than it does on the maverick, although I have no idea why.

[ThatBritishGuy]

Why did you still leave a stub on the end of the plunger tube, on mine i cut it off completely - this allowed me to add some reinforcement and extra springs with a smaller OD than the ID of the LSFG spring.

[Direwolf]

Its not an image of the actual gun, its just an online image. My actual gun is currently waiting for glue to dry for an intergration

[Exo]

You know what? Sometimes it's not worth being mean.

The reason you leave a stub is so that the spring doesn't slide around. It helps, if you're noobishly adding stock springs, instead of buying a real spring.

Edited by Exo, 15 January 2012 - 08:45 PM.

[Hammy]

In your case a 1000 words does not paint a picture, can you include some pictures of your modification.

[Direwolf]

I'm afraid some intergrations has made it impossible to open up the front gun without loosing alot of time and some very expensive araldite glue

[Exo]

I'm afraid some intergrations has made it impossible to open up the front gun without loosing alot of time and some very expensive araldite glue

I've got a few good tips for you.

First, get some other glue. Super or epoxy gel will work well on stock plastic. I don't know what araldite glue is, so that means that its never been mentioned here before. You can almost always make do with cheap stuff, you shouldn't be going broke on glue. A tube of Gorilla Glue epoxy gel was $5, and it gives you a lot of glue, more than enough for a LSFG integration.

Second, you should be integrating the shells in such a way that it is possible to open the blaster back up. The left shell should be glued to the left shell independently of the right shell, and vice versa, not the one blaster just glued to the other. This is necessary because it will allow you to perform maintenance on the blaster, as well as upgrade it.

And lastly, take the picture that you posted, and save it to your computer in the pictures file. Then, open it in MS paint, and draw on it from there.

Edited by Exo, 16 January 2012 - 06:22 PM.

[Direwolf]

Araldite is the PVC of metal, aka when its set its stronger than the plastic the guns are made of

[Exo]

Araldite is the PVC of metal, aka when its FULLY CURED its stronger than the plastic the guns are made of.

Like I said, you don't need glue that strong. A lot of cheaper options will sufice. I glued a pump to a peice of tube lengthwise, and I've pumped at least 500 cycles, and with a cheaper-than-Gorilla-Glue alternative, It hasn't even thought about budging. With a pump-action springer, you will be putting less pressure on a LSFG, especially without a serious spring upgrade than my pump. You would also have more surface area to bind than I do. And if you really want, you can get a "Fix-it-Stick" 4oz. tube of epoxy putty for $7 at lowes, so you coud reinforce it even more for $15, and with a bunch of leftover glue.

How much did you pay for how much araldite?

[shardbearer]

Araldite is a brand which makes 2 Part Epoxy and Polyurethane, both of which can be bough cheap off brand, and even the cheapest are, as you say, far "stronger than the plastic the guns are made of". So there's no reason to use Araldite.