Second note: NF/Jolt side by side integration. CRAZY. And trickier I think.
Third note: Area 52 Grade So Secret Only 3 Guys in Georgia Know Every Detail Secret Un-Redacted Tesla Papers Ne Plus Ultra Purple Candy Make It Rain Belt Driven-Dual Turreted Absolved Multi Ammo Smart Dart Ceramic Carbon Matrix Milled Titanium Propane Fired Hovering Autonomous Sentry Variant With Full Transportation of Device Through Time And Space - allowing 75 targets to be hit in the freaking eyeball, dead in the middle, simultaneously. Cough. Seriously though, I will put a Jolt in the handle. Super-Close Range Absolved Nano-Dart Pinky-Trigger Panic-Shot "Inline" Jolt. Thanks to contributor Pause for the placement idea and Beaver for Confusing me with a meme I should have known. Haha
Relatively Unmodded Nite-Finder
Fast Super Glue
Gel Super Glue
Goop and or Hot Glue
Length of Strong Wire
Small and large Barrel Sanding Bits (or files)
Fiberglass Cutting wheel or similar
X-acto or similar
This one is likely the easiest of the three versions I plan. It must be, since I am lazy and did it first. Grab a fresh NF since you've minimized yours the popatachi way (All Hail popatachi. You! HAIL I SAID!). Cut the dart holders off and sand the bottom of the light housing fully flush. Round any sharp edges you feel along the cuts, your hand will be there alot. There's one screw-post for the light that needs to be cut down. It's obvious which one. OK, next, this is not going to seem right, but scroll down to the pics showing the final blaster after you read this next part. The Jolt's handle is round (kinda) but there's that taper near the top. The taper caused a gap in the shell (oops) that you can either avoid or take advantage of. To take advantage, I imagine you'd leave the stock light in (slightly modified to shine down) and shine the light through the holes. Evil glow, happy accident. Or if you want you can adjust the cuts. Ok, scroll down now if you want to check out the light housing where the three ribs meet the Jolt. See that gap at the back? Decide. Now trim the shell following these pics (or leave more plastic with a bit less of an arc at the light housing). Try to sand the edges around the barrel of the Jolt's grip at an angle for a tight fit. Also, concentrate most on the fit of the left side of the shell.
Note: I added more space around the trigger of the Jolt than you might want to. I'm going to add thin sheet foam (dollar store) to seal the gaps in the shell and I'll wrap it around there for a tidy look after I paint it. You may want to start thinking about a linked trigger at this point.
Here's how it lines up internally. Note the bit of trim on the post. Also note the small space left between the Jolt and the screw-posts to allow the shell to close.
Internal Mods inspired by one of taerkitty's extremely well thought out NF writeups. I originally wrote something slightly funny about saying HAIL to taerkitty here. But I lost it in a weird edit and 3 beers happened. So laugh (a little) now.
The only needed mod to the Jolt is to sand a bit off the uppermost part of the logo depending on where you cut the dart holders. I just sanded it almost off. A recommended mod is to remove the rear lip on the bottom plate so it doesn't hurt your hand.
Clean the dust off the Jolt & inside shell of the NF. Clean both mating surfaces with alcohol if possible. If not use a little dish detergent, a little hot water and a good rinse. Now that it's clean and dry insert the Jolt and screw everything together tight. Tack the Jolt as shown to the left side of the frame with only a small amount of the fast super glue.
Let it dry until you can see that white powdery edge to the super glue and then take the NF down and add goop as shown. If you don't have too much goop you can pad out the back of the Jolt a bit without sacrificing too much strength. But use lots of goop. Add 3x more goop than you see there, go all the way around. I wanna see how little will keep it solid so that it's easy to remove. I'll add a little more gel superglue in areas that might need strength or gap filling. Don't add too much or too much in one place, or anywhere the frame is very weak if you want to be able to break it apart again. Super glue and goop don't mix. The fumes are especially nasty. Avoid getting the 2 in contact as much as possible. Certainly set it to dry somewhere you aren't. You could do it with hot glue but I think goop will be sturdier. If you choose hot glue, scuff the part of the Jolt inside the left shell and the inside of the shell up with 60 grit. Leave it alone, clamped (or with a heavy weight) overnight at least.
Done. Does it feel front heavy to you? Throw in a battery. This should offset the weight of the Jolt. Use a holster? Check this thread for a belt clip mod soon, I'll graft on a pager style belt clip which might work for you.
It's a blast to prime. Just hold the plunger rod and give the NF a jerk. A blast to use too. The trigger is in the sweet spot for me if you hold the thing like an smg, using the Jolt as a foregrip. Kinda cool. Having that quick follow-up shot is cool too. Even the spotty ergonomics of the Jolt seem to work in your favor here. The finger-grips work better. I will tweak the whole thing and mod the Jolt (plunger rod can be shorter now imo) and update this thread.
Try this prototype design to link the triggers and test the light. I used cloth tape to hold back the wires close to the micro-switch and reduce friction in the trigger rod.
For folks asking about the trigger. I show a "sequential" or timed trigger. I don't have a final version on mine done from the material I want to use yet. But the way mine works (which you can get to from my prototype pic by making the material wrap around the trigger spring mount in such a way as to engage the jolt's trigger on the last bit of travel) is that you can have both blasters primed, fire the NF, and not fire the jolt. You can reprime the nf and fire again and again. Then when you need the Jolt's shot you can pull the trigger all the way back. I will post a final pic eventually but the shape you need is there. Due to the way I routed it there's no chance of the wire coming off or cutting you. You can still use the Jolt's trigger to fire before or at the same time as the NF.
Personally I like the string idea. I just couldn't figure out how to do a clean sequential with it.
I would like to hear other ideas for the trigger and certainly see pics.
Here's the other side of the prototype trigger. I need to trim the shell for the rod once finalized. But just a little shorter or tighter than what's shown in the internal pic should work for you with fiddling. The Jolt fires after the NF once the trigger is pulled hard. Oh and licentious, gratuitous blaster porn. Do not lick your monitor. The Reflex manta is my "couch gun". Good for hunting mosquito too.
1. Muwhaaahahahahaha when you look at it.
2. Feels kinda like a little SMG.
3. Chicks dig it.
4. One far, one close shot.
6. Well, the neighbor lady did seem to like it.
1. Not having enough Jolts and NFs.
My responses to questions/comments:
For magnesium22 who asked about putting the light back on the side of the Jolt:
The idea I had was to put the light between the barrels. Haven't tried it. 85% sure it'd work
For Eik who asked about availability of the Jolt:
I've had good luck with my Kmart that's not in a busy shopping area. Target was selling them online 2 days ago. They have been spotted at TRU.
Batteries degrade over time into alkaline mush, so I would suggest using some other dense material to offset the weight of the jolt. Perhaps screws or bolts?
Might I also suggest string instead of wire (for the trigger) - :edited in
Yes, batteries are notorious for decay. I would recommend marbles.
I will update this post with any new information about this mod. Please post or pm any ideas you have. I will respond to questions both in the original post and in the thread (to let you know I responded).
Edited by iamthatcat, 16 November 2011 - 07:20 AM.