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Max Force Shadowhawk 100: Trigger using a Nitefinder

Mostly a proof of concept

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#1 Roger Explosion

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 07:00 AM

Just a few things before I get started. The mod is quite ghetto, but its just a working concept. There is plenty more that can be done, including the most important step which is getting the thing to fire darts, not just those glorified spit wads. Second of all, if you want some in depth internals shots of the Shadowhawk this post on OzNerf will suffice

This write up is a little rough, I did throw this thing together at about 4am. and I didn't have much of a set plan.

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Start by cutting off the handle on the Shadowhawk

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Be mindful that there is a small piece of the internals pokes out inside the handle.

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Take a stock Nitefinder, open it and gut the internals, but you can leave the trigger in. make sure you keep the catch and catch spring. then cut it down as shown.

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Cut approximately 17 inches of 10mmx10mmx1mm aluminium u channel. or any other rod that can be used as a homemade Nitefinder plunger rod.

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Cut out a hole big enough for the u channel to fit inside the pump handle. I only show one half of the hole, but do it on both sides so the u channel sits in the middle of the pump handle.

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this next step makes things easier down the road. Open the Shadowhawk and remove the gear that pulls the spring back. this will let you move the pump without any resistance. this will make life easier when you need to measure the notch for the catch on the u channel.

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attach the u channel to the pump handle by running a bolt through the pieces. I haven't got any pictures of the steps involved here, but just drill a hole near the end of the u channel and holes through the pump handle, line them up and run the bolt though (that should be pretty obvious). I just used a nail held in place with duct tape instead of a bolt, because that's all I had lying around.

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attach one half of the cut down Nitefinder onto the Shadowhawk. then run the u channel through where the plunger rod would sit. then pull the pump handle back all the way and mark where the u channel sits inside of where the catch will be.

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Cut a small notch in the u channel where you marked it.

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resemble the guns and attach the other half of the Nitefinder. check to see if the Niteinder will catch properly, then put back the gear you removed earlier so the Shadowhawk will work properly.

Please note: there is some serious potental for handrape when fired, because the pump handle sits back, and when the trigger is pulled it goes flying forward. right where you'd naturally sit you hand. so don't put you hand underneath the Shadowhawk.

Edited by Roger Explosion, 28 August 2011 - 01:53 PM.

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#2 evilbunnyo

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 08:09 AM

Nice mod but until these things fire darts there is no application at wars. Unless someone wants to allow them then it would be interesting.
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Silence is golden but duct tape is silver

#3 chavez guy

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 11:42 AM

Nice mod but until these things fire darts there is no application at wars. Unless someone wants to allow them then it would be interesting.


Well the plunger tube is actually of a competent size. It wouldn't suprise me if sometime in the near future someone just stuck a coupler in there and started getting 70 or 80 foot ranges in tandem with this trigger mod.

Edited by chavez_guy, 28 August 2011 - 11:42 AM.

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Hablamos EspaƱol

#4 HasreadCoC

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 02:40 PM

Well the plunger tube is actually of a competent size. It wouldn't suprise me if sometime in the near future someone just stuck a coupler in there and started getting 70 or 80 foot ranges in tandem with this trigger mod.

I would suggest just hoppering it so that it sits like one of kane's bullpup blasters, with the clip near your shoulder, and the barrel inside the blaster shell. Depending on how long the barrel has the be to make it out the front of the blaster after being put on a hopper clip, I would suggest using PETG for the barrel, since 14 inches of CPVC would be too much in this case, whereas PETG would be looser, and less range dampening at that barrel length.
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#5 moosa

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 09:39 PM

So that metal bar sticks out the back as well? Anyways, it's progress! Nice work.
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Yes.


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