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Imperial RCB

Yay for horribly outdated units of measurment!

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#1 TantumBull

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 10:13 PM

Please note: Title of thread refers to a type of dimensioning, NOT to any perceived superiority/nobility.

One thing I'd like to get out of the way immediately is that this is not a full write-up. Most of the focus is on the PVC pipe and fittings one can obtain in the States to make an SG-style ring catch blaster (I'm just choosing to use the acronym RCB). So essentially parts that are imperial rather than metric in their dimensions are being used. Besides the catch, this thing most resembles and functions like an RBP.

Inspirations for the blaster:
-Rainbowpump
-SGN-PAR55M

The overall mission of the project was to create something very comparable to a rainbow, but using as little parts that have to be ordered online as possible.
My goals were:
1. the catch is reliable as a rainbow's
2. the blaster is cheaper than it's rainbow cousin
3. no scrollsaw, or any other large shop tools required (a dremel is necessary, however, unless you like filing things for hours on end)
4. parts obtainable at local hardware store

All goals besides 4 were met. The blaster's powerhouse (a [k26]) and the pump slide were not purchased at my local Ace. The spring is from Mcmaster, and the pump slide was machined from a piece of an old water gun (one of those huge push-plunger ones).

While I won't detail the making of the entire blaster, I will go over some key parts of the design that I either haven't seen elsewhere or think that people could benefit from seeing. Most everything else is pretty easy to figure out.

Tee/Ring Catch Assembly

Below is a picture of the exploded assembly. Fittings are labeled. Note that the two pairs of reducers and garden hose fittings must be modified before everything fits together. Essentially the purpose of all this is a sturdy way of attaching the tee to the two 1-1/4" PVC segments, that requires minimal amounts of e-tape for spacing.

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The first order of business is cutting the slot for the catch ring. You can really just eyeball it.

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Next things to be sliced up are the garden hose fittings. Cut off right where the ridge protecting the threads is, as shown in the picture below. Do this to both garden fittings. Essentially what these do is act as perfect spacers between the 3/4" tee and 1/2" PVC that will be used to keep the catch in place.

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Shove in some thinwall 1/2" PVC, be sure to use more than you think you'll need. You can see how at the end of each fitting is a segment with a slightly tighter ID, kind of like the ridge on a coupler that prevents pipe from going into the connecting pipe's area.

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Now put one of the segments into the tee, pushing it in until the tee won't allow the garden fitting to go in any father. Make a mark, slightly off from the center of the tee, where you'll cut. So probably a tad more than an 1/8" or so. Don't worry about it too much, I eyeballed it. Just keep in mind that too small and your catch ring could snap or warp, too big and the slot in your plunger rod's notch will be too large.

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Cut it at the mark and copy the cut onto your other pipe/fitting assembly. They should be nearly identical. Next prepare some regular walled 1/2" PVC for use as the catch. I first tried thinwall, but it proved too flimsy and would bend underneath the adjacent segments of pipe. Simply drill out a short segment of the normal PVC with a 5/8" bit. Then measure and cut out your ring. I went a little large, and then sanded it down to get a perfect fit. I recommend doing the same. You want it to slide vertically with minimal effort, but don't want much horizontal wiggle room.

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Time to mutilate the reducers. Cut as marked in the image. The thinner segments are what we need, the large ones can be tossed.

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Slide them over the exposed garden fittings. In the image below I've only put one on. You may need a little e-tape if the fit is too loose.

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Drill, tap, and screw as shown. Socket screws are a must. Do the same to the other side of the tee. The screw placement leaves the reducer segments unconstrained, but that's not really an issue. They won't be under much tensile force, and will be screwed in later anyways.

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Add e-tape around the tee as shown. You want the fit in 1-1/4" PVC to be very snug.

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One last thing I need to address about the tee assembly is how you affix it to both 1-1/4" PVC segments. Screw placement is very crucial, what with all the different fittings and spacers used. I placed my screws on the top and bottom, to avoid the internal screws on the sides of the tee. On each side I have two screw, one on top and one bottom, that go through the e-tape and directly into the tee. They stop when the hit the inner walls of the thinwall PVC, as to not interfere with plunger travel. The next pair go through the center of the reducer segments, again one on top and the other bottom. They also go just as deep. I believe I used 1/2" screws, but they could have been 3/4". I forget which and will check later. So total, that's 8 screws, 4 on each side of the tee, 2 on top and 2 on bottom. Below is a diagram that helps show the assembly, but mainly shows screw placement more accurately than I can describe in words.

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Plunger Rod Reinforcement

One aspect of Sg Nerf's design that I cringed at right off the bat was the catch notch cut into the PVC plunger rod. While I can't speak for his, I know that when I tried replicating his design, my plunger rod was horribly flimsy, and even though the plunger would be submitted to horizontal tensile forces, I still feared bending at the notch would be a significant issue. PVC is pretty soft after all. To remedy this I ran a slightly sanded 1/2" wooden dowel through that part of the plunger rod. It's kept in place (despite the friction fit that a hammer would barely budge the dowel from) by two socket screws.

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Edited by TantumBull, 15 August 2011 - 06:06 PM.

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#2 TantumBull

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 10:15 PM

Finished (almost, still need to integrate chopper):

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I still have a few things to do, like install a spring return on the slide, add a fore-grip for the pump, and integrate an extremely sturdy and semi permanent chopper. But it is a functional blaster.

ASK QUESTIONS. I couldn't possibly have covered everything.

Edited by TantumBull, 11 August 2011 - 10:20 PM.

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#3 snakerbot

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 11:09 PM

Below is a picture of the exploded assembly. Fittings are labeled.


They really aren't...

I do like the blaster though. It's nice to see a good way to get everything attached without large amounts of tape to make a tight fit. My only real question is about the screws you mention for fitting the 1 1/4" pvc to the catch assembly. I assume the screws are going through the 1 1/4" pvc into the tee and reducer segments? Your diagram doesn't show the 1 1/4, so it's slightly vague.
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#4 Y-Brik

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 11:33 PM

Great find with the reducers- is it a snug fit or still a bit wobbly w/o the etape?
Also, I think this will be the go-to way to make a plunger rod for these things- same price as 5' of nylon or delrin (not counting tax and shipping) and with much more useful leftover! I assume you're using this with a full [k26]?

Also, what's with the funky 1.5" thinwall color?
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As I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.

Why I am boycotting Hasbro

#5 Ozymandias

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 12:37 AM

Also, what's with the funky 1.5" thinwall color?


Clearly he intends to bring sexy back.

More on topic, one thing I would suggest for your plunger rod is Langley's Suicide Trigger. It is similar to what you have here, except it can rotate and you don't have to carve wood.

This thing looks great, but where did you find avocado green thinwall?

Edit: Langley's Suicide Trigger was based on Carbon's Clothespin Trigger.

Edited by Ozymandias, 12 August 2011 - 12:49 AM.

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#6 TantumBull

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 01:50 AM

They really aren't...

I do like the blaster though. It's nice to see a good way to get everything attached without large amounts of tape to make a tight fit. My only real question is about the screws you mention for fitting the 1 1/4" pvc to the catch assembly. I assume the screws are going through the 1 1/4" pvc into the tee and reducer segments? Your diagram doesn't show the 1 1/4, so it's slightly vague.

Thanks for the heads up! Must of missed that, the picture has been updated. And also great point about the screws! Yes, the 8 in the diagram should also DEFINITELY go through the 1-1/4" PVC. I can't believe I forgot to draw or even mention that! I'll edit in some text now, and edit the actual diagram later.


Great find with the reducers- is it a snug fit or still a bit wobbly w/o the etape?
Also, I think this will be the go-to way to make a plunger rod for these things- same price as 5' of nylon or delrin (not counting tax and shipping) and with much more useful leftover! I assume you're using this with a full [k26]?

Also, what's with the funky 1.5" thinwall color?


The 1.25" PVC is actually super tight on the reducers (I had to hammer them in), the e-tape on the tee is more to please my obsessive need to keep things more centered than they need to be. Basically its there to add more surface for centering, and to also help keep everything centered when inserting screws, which can sometimes take more to one fitting than another and thus create uneven gaps.

The pump slide actually isn't thinwall PVC, it was from one of those old water guns that have enormous push-pull pistons and I believe is made of ABS (based on how it smelled after taking a dremel to it... you know you're an overzealous dremeler if you can categorize your materials by the smell they make when melting). Those things were like human powered fire hoses, no joke. The one pictured below was the same model I used, albeit the obvious difference in color.

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Clearly he intends to bring sexy back.

More on topic, one thing I would suggest for your plunger rod is Langley's Suicide Trigger. It is similar to what you have here, except it can rotate and you don't have to carve wood.

This thing looks great, but where did you find avocado green thinwall?

Edit: Langley's Suicide Trigger was based on Carbon's Clothespin Trigger.


Hmm, interesting, looks kinda like beaver's omni-directional catch. I thought about doing something like this, but tossed the idea with the realizationg that the ring needs to go much farther into the plunger rod for reliable catching. While Langley's catch notch may work for the suicide trigger, the pvc ring trigger as used in my build requires a notch nearly half as deep as the CPVC is wide (another reason the dowel was so important). It could work if the joining material/hardware was much thinner, as in beaver's threaded rod variant.

As for the avocado sexiness, I addressed this above. These things pop up at thrift stores quite often, just keep an eye out.
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#7 SlightlySane813

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 02:35 PM

Nice job making a american ring catch using 1/2" cpvc as a plunger rod.

I would also suggest using a suicide catch. Ive made several R2L's that use 1/2" PVC and a suicide catch as a plunger rod and it really makes a difference.

Also what kind of ranges are you getting with the 1 1/4" plunger tube? I use 1 1/2" pvc and was wondering how much of a diffence it makes. Also how much draw are you getting?
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#8 thedom21

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 05:30 PM

I really like this design and am glad I can now build one. Thanks Tantum!
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Funny Irc moments

22:32 hookerninja I would just switch to 2 full 69's
22:32 hookerninja that would diddle shit

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11:44 Zorn ergo the dildo

#9 TantumBull

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 05:55 PM

Nice job making a american ring catch using 1/2" cpvc as a plunger rod.

I would also suggest using a suicide catch. Ive made several R2L's that use 1/2" PVC and a suicide catch as a plunger rod and it really makes a difference.

Also what kind of ranges are you getting with the 1 1/4" plunger tube? I use 1 1/2" pvc and was wondering how much of a diffence it makes. Also how much draw are you getting?

Ohhhh, I didn't realize the suicide catch also used a ring. So basically its a ring catch that uses a clothespin? Hmm that's interesting, as it would eliminate needing a tee. I think this way is awful cleaner, but a suicide catch sounds like it requires less parts, though is a bit less adjustable.

I have 6.5" of draw. I was limited by the snap plunger tube I salvaged. It works out though, because while my seal is 100% perfect, there's considerable friction and the pre-compression does wonders. Haven't range tested yet, but I don't need to in order to tell you this will be hitting well over the century mark. I haven't done side by side testing, but in my experience 1.25" PVC plunger tubes perform better than their 1.5" cousins. Let me again say that no tests back up that observation, it is completely arbitrary on my part. However, there is a point where the air cushion (which slows the plunger) created by the larger plunger head counteracts the advantages inherent to moving more air.


I really like this design and am glad I can now build one. Thanks Tantum!

Glad I could be of assistance. Honestly the worst part for these kinds of blasters is spending hours on end in Ace or Home Depot putting fittings together and mulling concepts over in your head. Hopefully this thread eliminates the need to do that again.

Edited by TantumBull, 12 August 2011 - 05:57 PM.

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#10 thedom21

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 06:18 PM

Those hours are the only thing that turned me away from making one.
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Funny Irc moments

22:32 hookerninja I would just switch to 2 full 69's
22:32 hookerninja that would diddle shit

11:44 Zorn Her butt is too tiny even for limp 6th grade penis?
11:44 Zorn ergo the dildo

#11 TantumBull

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 08:22 PM

Update: I finished the pump grip. Now I just need to finish the chopper system...

Pump Grip

The actual grip part is simply 1/2" PVC couplers with an endcap on the bottom, all wrapped up in grip tape for comfiness. The PVC grip connects to a 1/2" tee that has been cut and shaped with a torch to fit the OD of 2" fittings. The modified tee is screwed to a 2" PVC endcap that has its end drilled/dremeled out. The fitting has an extremely tight fit on the green pump slide; I needed a rubber mallot to force it on. Because of this it's not screwed to the pump slide, and can be removed with a mallet.

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#12 arfink

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 10:23 PM

Love the looks of this thing. I think the coolest part is the wooden dowel in the CPVC plunger rod. I'll be copying that, if you don't mind. :)
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#13 Y-Brik

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 11:07 PM

It's worth noting where you've sourced your PVC- Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace all carry slightly different styles of fittings, some of which suit our needs more than others. I'm guessing you got these from Ace?
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As I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.

Why I am boycotting Hasbro

#14 SgNerf

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 02:02 AM

Excellent guide!

Very helpful info for blaster builders in the States, i'll definitely direct them to refer to your thread whenever i get any queries.

Thanks for posting up the info! :)
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#15 Nate45

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 10:27 AM

How did you make the screws on the pump grip not interfere with the the main 1 1/4" body. Did you just find a perfect length screw for this grip?
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#16 TantumBull

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 11:29 AM

It's worth noting where you've sourced your PVC- Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace all carry slightly different styles of fittings, some of which suit our needs more than others. I'm guessing you got these from Ace?

Yep, got all these from my local Ace hardware. Would it be helpful for me to check the stamped manufacturer on the pipe they carry? Then again the may source fitting from a different manufacturer...

Excellent guide!

Very helpful info for blaster builders in the States, i'll definitely direct them to refer to your thread whenever i get any queries.

Thanks for posting up the info! :)

Thanks! I was waiting for you to see this. Your ring catch is awesome, props on designing it!

How did you make the screws on the pump grip not interfere with the the main 1 1/4" body. Did you just find a perfect length screw for this grip?

They actually don't come close to the PVC body, and don't even touch the green slide. They only go into the modified end cap. But yeah, they're just a tad on the short side and don't quite come out of the inner walls of the end cap.

Edited by TantumBull, 13 August 2011 - 11:30 AM.

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#17 MrPzowned

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 04:29 PM

From now on, I post my stuff on nerfhaven. I like you take on this blaster but having to use a Tee joint bugs me. Thats why I made this IRCB (Internal Ring Catch Blaster
I must say this though, your pump, is cooler than mine.
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17:54 Noodle Yes what he did was stupid
17:54 Noodle but it's a plastic toy
17:54 Gears BUT IT COULD'VE BEEN MY PLASTIC TOY

#18 TantumBull

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 12:22 AM

From now on, I post my stuff on nerfhaven. I like you take on this blaster but having to use a Tee joint bugs me. Thats why I made this IRCB (Internal Ring Catch Blaster
I must say this though, your pump, is cooler than mine.

Why is that relevant where you post? Your adaptation wouldn't have influenced what I made here in any way. And I would completely disagree about the tee. It allows for a considerably cleaner handle attachment point, saves time, makes it easier to rig a trigger, and is cheaper. To each his own though I suppose. And thanks about the pump.

Edited by TantumBull, 14 August 2011 - 11:18 AM.

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#19 diamondbacknf1626

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 09:24 AM

Cool stuff, man. I like the minimal e-tape usage in combining the parts around the catch. However, you seem to have missed this. It's a Ring Catch Blaster that was posted quite a while ago as you can see, and it utilizes parts readily available in the U.S. Here is mine that I posted a bit over a month ago:
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Now, of course, mine utilizes clear PVC and 2" Polyester tubing for the pump slide, but that can be simply substituted for opaque PVC and 1.5" thin-wall PVC respectively.

Another difference that detracts from the hard-ware store essence of yours is the Nylon Rod plunger rod. This is because I used SCH 80 PVC for the pump guides and catch. This could easily be substituted with 1/2" thin-wall to accommodate the CPVC. Speaking of, I like what you did with the CPVC to re-enforce it. Running the dowel inside of it was a good call. Did you notice at all that you had to grind down the sides of the catch notch as well? I found that I had to round the top edges created when cutting the notch in order to make the SCH 80 PVC slide more freely onto it and seat deeper when catching.

Also, to confirm, these are quite a bit easier to make than RBPs, and much cheaper (no need to purchase Polycarb).
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QUOTE(TxNerfer @ Nov 13 2010, 12:42 PM) View Post

Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.

#20 MrPzowned

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 10:05 AM

Why is that relevant where you post? Your adaptation (or mutation, more like it) wouldn't have influenced what I made here in any way. And I would completely disagree about the tee. It allows for a considerably cleaner handle attachment point, saves time, makes it easier to rig a trigger, and is cheaper. To each his own though I suppose. And thanks about the pump, but to imply that the rest of your blaster is better is a bit arrogant, no?

I didn't mean to say that it was better, just that that style would allow the catch placement to be a little bit more versatile. I put that link up there namely because of the intials, I don't mean that you stole them or anything like that, I thought it was a funny coincidence that two different blaster ended up with IRCB.
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17:54 Noodle Yes what he did was stupid
17:54 Noodle but it's a plastic toy
17:54 Gears BUT IT COULD'VE BEEN MY PLASTIC TOY

#21 TantumBull

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 11:22 AM

I didn't mean to say that it was better, just that that style would allow the catch placement to be a little bit more versatile. I put that link up there namely because of the intials, I don't mean that you stole them or anything like that, I thought it was a funny coincidence that two different blaster ended up with IRCB.

Hey, sorry about that overly defensive post. I was tired and being dumb. And yeah, that is pretty funny about the acronyms haha.

Cool stuff, man. I like the minimal e-tape usage in combining the parts around the catch. However, you seem to have missed this. It's a Ring Catch Blaster that was posted quite a while ago as you can see, and it utilizes parts readily available in the U.S. Here is mine that I posted a bit over a month ago:

[IMG]

[IMG]

Now, of course, mine utilizes clear PVC and 2" Polyester tubing for the pump slide, but that can be simply substituted for opaque PVC and 1.5" thin-wall PVC respectively.

Another difference that detracts from the hard-ware store essence of yours is the Nylon Rod plunger rod. This is because I used SCH 80 PVC for the pump guides and catch. This could easily be substituted with 1/2" thin-wall to accommodate the CPVC. Speaking of, I like what you did with the CPVC to re-enforce it. Running the dowel inside of it was a good call. Did you notice at all that you had to grind down the sides of the catch notch as well? I found that I had to round the top edges created when cutting the notch in order to make the SCH 80 PVC slide more freely onto it and seat deeper when catching.

Also, to confirm, these are quite a bit easier to make than RBPs, and much cheaper (no need to purchase Polycarb).

Wow, haha I COMPLETELY missed that. That's pretty hilarious how similar inferno's and my blasters are: basically rainbow pumps with ring catches (albeit a slightly more funky and Sg Nerf inspired stock on mine).

Yours is pretty cool. I actually do remember seeing that now in the homemades thread I believe. And WOW, I feel retarded. I didn't think of rounding the sides! I just kept going deeper to accommodate the shape of the catch piece. But that makes total sense. Because of the circular nature of the catch, making the catch notch rounded would help get more surface area while compromising the integrity of the plunger rod less.

Edited by TantumBull, 14 August 2011 - 11:35 AM.

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#22 Y-Brik

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 07:36 PM

Cool stuff, man. I like the minimal e-tape usage in combining the parts around the catch. However, you seem to have missed (picture)
It's a Ring Catch Blaster that was posted quite a while ago as you can see, and it utilizes parts readily available in the U.S. Here is mine that I posted a bit over a month ago

//Stuff about differences in designs//


Eh, I'll join in with the dickwaving- mine was finished in March, and is a direct copy adaptation of Ragrizinferno's build on the Nrev. Venom, yours is gorgeous, but it's begging for clear tees too.

Edited by Y-Brik, 14 August 2011 - 07:37 PM.

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As I said I have not not alot of testes yet but I will be once I finish the mod.

Why I am boycotting Hasbro

#23 TantumBull

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 08:27 PM

Eh, I'll join in with the dickwaving- mine was finished in March, and is a direct copy adaptation of Ragrizinferno's build on the Nrev. Venom, yours is gorgeous, but it's begging for clear tees too.

Cool, but you're the only one "dickwaving". DBNF posted a pic of his build with a question regarding my catch notch, and commented on other parts of the blaster as well. Mr. P posted a coincidental realization about the acronym I chose and a legitimate point about the use of a tee. What you posted doesn't really contribute to the thread much. That's fine if you want to post links to your own stuff if its relevant to the thread, but if its purely for the purpose of "dickwaving" then I would prefer you just use the homemades pictures thread. Which is essentially made for such.

Oh, and Venom hasn't posted once in this thread.

Edited by TantumBull, 14 August 2011 - 08:33 PM.

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#24 Ryan201821

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 03:46 PM

Great work, it looks really nice. I'd like to say/ask a few things.

3. no scrollsaw, or any other large shop tools required (a dremel is necessary, however, unless you like filing things for hours on end)

I think Kane and I will be the only ones to tell you this, but I hardly see this as a good thing. Dremels (although slightly cheaper and everyone seems to have them) are awful. Shit flying in your face, dust everywhere, melting plastic, death fumes, it's not fun. I'm sure a lot of the stuff you did to this require the dremel instead of the scrollsaw, but I always like to use it as less as possible. However, it is nice you can tell people they only need a dremel to make one of these.

In your OP, I believe everywhere it's suppposed to say 1 1/4" PVC it says 1/4" PVC. Hehe, whoops.

Now, things I really like. The pump grip is awesome. I have a few of those water guns and I'll probably try using them as a pump grip. It seems like ABS maybe? At the least it seems stronger than 1.5" thinwall which I've had break on me before. I also like the plunger rod modification. I feel much more satisfied that the plunger rod is solid instead of having a tube with notches cut out of it. Also, not having to use lots of tape, or any glue is great. Thank you for that.

Now, a few questions.

Overall length?
Cost/Labor?
Since this is a hardware store blaster, what did you use for your plunger head/seal?
If this is similar to an RBP, does the metal rod in the back slam into the slots and/or the bushing? Have you thought about utilizing a string stop?

One more thing,

From now on, I post my stuff on nerfhaven. I like you take on this blaster but having to use a Tee joint bugs me. Thats why I made this IRCB (Internal Ring Catch Blaster
I must say this though, your pump, is cooler than mine.

Definitely agree with Mr. P here. The Tee handles work, but I don't like them at all. Sure they're easy to implement, but I believe that comes as a cost to comfort. If you held an actual handle in your hand, I'm sure you'd agree. It's kinda the same thing with the Tee for the stock. It works great, but then again it isn't very comfortable.

Also, garden hose fittings? Never seen them. Seems like something you might only find at Ace, although I've never explicitly looked for them.

Nonetheless, good job, I'm liking these RCBs more.
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#25 taerKitty

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 05:35 PM

I love tee-handles, if you follow it up with a 45-degree elbow and a cap. I used a 3/4" PVC one on my HEAT (Hornet Expand-a-Tank) pistol and it's way comfy. Or, if someone wants to go all P90-like, follow it up with two 45-degree elbows, though that's more a 'concept' than something I tried, so all disclaimers (and flames) apply.
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