6 replies to this topic

[GeneralPrimevil]

Hello,
I'm not new to nerf (5 years practice), but I've only made two homemades. This valve may work for several designs that require a faster opening valve than a ball valve, but not as many small parts as a Zero valve, although I haven't really heard much about those. it just seems as if the Zero valve, according to the instructions on this website, has too small of an airway in it. I already have a use for it in a bolt-action rifle that requires a larger diameter (less restricted) air flow. The design for the valve seems simple. I just came up with it at school and was wondering what you guys thought of it, cause most of you have made several homemades yourselves. Sorry for the crappyness (word?) of the photo, but i had to scan it on low resolution. The little rod thing (green), when pulled, opens up the valve by moving a tube (yellow) that crosses between the in/outlets (light blue). This could be made out of most any material, I think.


P.S.-Don't care about the writing in the photo. It's illegible on the real drawing too. javascript:emoticon('')

[xedice]

Leakage is always a problem. Many valves look good on paper, but air leaks out of them when you build them. I think the valve would work if you added lubed up o-rings on the end of the inlet and outlet tubes. The valve looks like it could use PVC for all of those tubes, which would give good airflow compared to a zero valve, but it looks a little harder to construct than a zero valve. My 2 cents.

looks good

[Cadmond]

Disturbing...

I need to start sharing my designs more often.
Regardless, for valve-age, that design will work quite well I think. I can't see any disadvantages from the other systems I've seen... infact, more surface area would probably help, as the any leak would/could be stifled by a simple jiggle or whatever. Looks good. Hopefully, you'll be proactive, and tell us how an actual one works.

[Vintage]

Please explain this design. Am I the only one here who doesn't get this?

~Vintage

[GeneralPrimevil]

Thanks for the advice. The two black bars near the inlet and outlet were supposed to be marked as o-rings, but not lubed o-rings; I never thought of those. I should have a few valves for testing, and for use in a homemademade, this weekend. It will be made entirely of steel. A description of how it works is as follows: the air tank/pump is attached to one of the in/outlets, light blue parts. The line to the barrel is attached to the other. Inside the pipe that moves, yellow, there is another pipe either the same or smaller diameter than the in/outlets that is going perpendicular to the moving yellow part. When the green rod is pushed in, it moves the yellow part which moves the cross tube (perpendicular pipe) to open an air passage between the light blue pieces. There is a variably weighted spring that will return the yellow piece to allow the rest of that pipe to not allow the air to flow through the in/outlets freely, unles it leaked, which is the point to the (lubed) o-rings, to prevent air from escaping between the 'lets, causing lost pressure. Once the valve is closed again, it can be repressurized.

Vintage, to answer your last post, no, you're not the only one that doesn't get it, I don't get the design for that air regulator either.

[Cadmond]

I suppose that means I have to explain it..

Well, the design won't really work, but whatever.

Anywho, the brass tubing is basically the inlet and outlet for the air, coming from an unspecified source, going in the direction called up, in correlation to the diagram.

The piston inlet port allows pressurized air to push on the piston, which should be full of a small "charge" or whatever, the piston then letting go of that charge through the top brass. it's not really a piston, more like a movable airtank....

Of course, the realistic concept design would should just have a stick to push on the piston from the left side (force going right..)

All the same benefits, less timing required.

Sorry bout that, just found the resemblance was odd.

[GeneralPrimevil]

I'd have to agree about the resemblance being a little close. I didn't know that you had come up with a design similar to this. The only difference I can tell is that your's seems to be more of a semi-auto type valve, where the one I drew would require a second valve, similar to the advanced ball valve homemade design, in order to make it semi. If this has a name on it, it shouldn't be mine cause this was just my take on a homemade version of the valves found in a RF20. It's not exact, but it can't be cause Nerf probably has it patented. Otherwise, the RF20 one is aslo very simple. The difference between the one posted by me and that one is that that one has the inlet beneath the valve itself, not directly across from the outlet on the side of the valve.