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10 shot turret attachment

All the sexy of a printed turret, with 2 extra shots.

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#1 HasreadCoC

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 08:43 PM

Not sure if this should go in “homemades” or “mods”, but I’m putting it in mods as it primarily uses actual Nerf parts, namely, the Hyper-Fire’s.

 Anyway, on to what you will be building; a 10 shot manual rotation turret very similar to the printed turrets, but with 2 extra shots, and much more availability. Finished product before adding barrels will look like this:

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So with that, let's begin.

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#1, Tools list:



A small screw driver to open the shell....DUH!



Power Drill / Drill Press.



Drill bits (1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4”, and maybe a cone-shaped sanding bit to save you some reaming)



Scroll Saw / retardedly large 3 & 1/2” hole saw bit.



Pocket knife / scissors to de-burr and ream out plastic.



Some larger hand saw, unless your scroll saw has at least 4” of clearance for cutting.

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#2, Parts List:



Hyper-fire Turret and turret-mech.



Approximately a 4" x 4" square of 1/4” polycarb, cut into about a 3 & 1/2” diameter circle, perhaps a bit smaller.



Tape (Packing tape, Duct-tape, and electrical tape)



Various small lengths of piping (1/2” CPVC, 1/2” PVC, and something that fits nearly perfectly over the tube coming out of the back of the turret but allows it to turn, I used a cut portion of a raider plunger tube for this)



Hot glue, since it pulls off easily in Step 4.



Super glue / plastic sealing glue of some sort, although I used the non-preferred option of hot glue.



About 4 square inches of self adhesive craft foam sheet, to stick on to seal the turret.



Whatever you’re using as barrels, PETG would be preferable, although CPVC should work.




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#3, Instructions:



Step 1, Take the Hyper fire apart, and take out the following pieces, they’re all that you’ll need from this thing (including the screws, spring, and other stuff inside this).

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Step 2, Take these pieces apart, but don’t lose anything, and just take a slice off the front of the orange barrels like so, it should only be about a quarter inch (1/4”) thick. We’ll need this thing for several uses including a template and and optional barrel spacer. You should be left with this.

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Step 3, Cut out a circle of polycarb to match the size of the turret, or just slightly larger (just a bit less than 3 & 1/2” in diameter), it helps to trace around a can or jar (I used a dog food can) that’s the same size you need.

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Step 4, Now that Turret barrel slice comes into play, and it’s a life-saver here. Centering it on the polycarb circle as precisely as you possibly can, hot glue the perfectly flat side down in place like so. Don’t use too much hot glue, you’ll have to pull it off in a minute anyway.

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Step 5, Using the orange barrel slice as a guide, drill seven 1/2” holes for rear-loading holes, but leave 3 holes in a row un-drilled. The middle hole of these 3 undrilled holes must have it’s center partially drilled, or at least marked though, to prepare for the 5/8” bit, which will not fit at the moment, because of the orange barrel slice in the way.

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Step 6, Take off the orange barrel slice and hot glue, and drill the partially drilled (or marked) hole out with a 5/8” bit, being very careful to drill perfectly flat, and no more than 5/8” (don’t just keep spinning the bit in the hole after it’s drilled, this increases it’s size slightly, which is bad). While you’re at it, ream out (or sand) ONE SIDE of the other 7 holes, this makes rear-loading easier on your fingers. Be sure to keep track of which side of the polycarb disk is which, because with the next hole we drill we’ll have to ream it out on the opposite side of the holes we just reamed out for rear-loading.

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Step 7, In the absolute and perfect center of the polycarb disk, drill a 3/4” hole, this it how we will slide the whole thing on the turret. Do whatever you like to get it centered, I do this funny approximation line stuff. Sand as needed to make it slide on nicely. Also, seriously ream out the side of the hole which is in the OPPOSITE side of the reamed out rear-loading holes, this is done so it fits over the flared out part of the tube on the back of the turret. Just ream until the polycarb disk can sit flush with the back of the turret, and can spin freely without too much friction (but don’t make the entire hole TOO big, it still has to be a perfect fit over the turret pipe part so it doesn’t slide out of place)

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Step 8, Now carefully drill out the turret itself, as is done for all rear-loading, do it with a 1/2” bit, of course.

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Step 9, Go ahead and cut and apply the self adhesive craft foam sheet to the polycarb circle now now, being careful to apply it to the side that will make contact to the turret, in other words the side that is opposite of the side you reamed out for rear loading. Also, cut out all 7 of the holes in the foam for rear-loading once you’ve applied it (but not before), as well as the very middle hole that slides on over the turrets pipe part. Whatever you do though, DO NOT cut out the foam around that 5/8” hole from Step 6, it’s actually going to be smaller than the rest and will be cut out later, leave it alone for now.

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Step 10, This part onwards in the write-up is where it gets a bit confusing, so bear with me, you should understand when you do it. Take a small (about a half-inch long piece) cut of your raider tube (carefully cut to be flat, or else sanded on the cut end until it is) or substituted same-size material, and wrap 5 to 10 layers packing tape over it like so, such that it forms a small “ledge” or “outcropping” outwards like so, the ledge itself should only stick out about an eighth of an inch.

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Step 11, Using the following pieces:

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and a second small length of raider plunger tube (pictured to the side of the other pieces) about a half inch long (cut it to be just a little big at first, sand off what you don’t need), and then test fit all these pieces to the back of the turret and see that they all fit snugly, with NO extra room for the polycarb disk to slide back from the turret, as such would ruin the seal (make sure not to have excess either though, getting a balance can be difficult here). Proceed to sand the second raider plunger tube length until it is just the right size to achieve this as needed. Also, make sure the "ledge" part with the tape points towards the gear mech stuff as pictured.

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Step 12, Remember that 5/8” hole? Well we’re working on that now. Cut a 4” long length of 1/2” PVC, and a 2” length of CPVC, hammer the CPVC into the PVC until a little bit over a quarter of an inch of the CPVC is sticking out of the 1/2” PVC. Sand the CPVC PERFECTLY flat on the end, and make sure it’s still just sticking a hair more than 1/4” inch out of the 1/2” PVC. Put the CPVC end into the 5/8” hole in the polycarb disk and see how it looks, the CPVC should be sticking just a literal *hair* out of the turret seal. Super glue or cement the CPVC part into the 5/8” hole in the polycarb circle, in order to keep it strong and sealing well. Go ahead and cut away the craft foam blocking the hole now, you only have to remove enough to uncover the inside of the CPVC, so a little less than a half inch wide. Remember, the smaller the hole, the better the seal, but keep in mind you don’t want to block air flow.

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Step 13, Put the spring and screws in the turret and turret mech, with all the pieces from Step 11 in their proper places, and make sure the turret is sealing well with the foam on the polycarb circle, this is a function of exactly how long the second piece of raider plunger tube is, shorter means looser, longer means tighter (TWSS!), but too much and you’ll be overly compressing the indexing spring, resulting in the auto-indexing feature (the whole point) being lost. Also, if possible, replace the indexing spring with a stronger one of the same size, this will drastically improve your seal, not that the stock spring won’t work, but don’t expect the turret to have a perfect seal with high pressures going through it. Now use duct-tape to connect all the Step 11 pieces together, like so, such that when one spins they all do.

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Step 14, Phew, almost done. Just wrap even more duct-tape around both the previously duct-taped Step 11 pieces and the Step 12 1/2” PVC piece until they come close to touching, then fill the gap with something for strength, like popsicle sticks (or a wad of duct tape like me LOL) , so it looks like this. MAKE SURE ALL THE REAR-LOADING HOLES ARE PROPERLY ALIGNED WITH THE TURRET HOLES.

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Step 15, Duct-tape the Step 11 and Step 12 parts together now, like so.

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Make sure it’s sturdy (LOTSA MAD DUCT-TAPE YO), and E-tape over it all to make it look.....not duct-tape covered LOL.

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Step 16, Test it all out, and, if satisfied, attach your barrels of choice, PETG would be preferable here. You're on your own attaching them, as not even I have completed this step yet, I need to order PETG from Taer Kitty at some point LOL. You can also use CPVC, but it’ll be heavy, just saying....

Final thoughts:

My goals were accomplished, so YAY, this was a project I had in my head months ago, but just recently got to make. Also, MY FIRST WRITE-UP ZOMG YAY IM SO HAPPY. I'll probably edit in a picture of the turret with barrels, when I get around to adding them, but the turret itself is done, so this write up is basically done as well, as this is not a walkthrough on how to glue barrels on to a turret LOL. Thanks to user Makeitgo for inspiring me with his recent HyperFire write-up and thus convincing me that rear-loading on a HyperFire would be plausible, although leaks could arise. Thankfully, my turrets seal nicely even with the stock indexing spring.

Well guys, thoughts? Flames? Suggestions? Offers to pay for my Engineering College? XD

Edited by HasreadCoC, 25 July 2011 - 09:06 PM.

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#2 Curly

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 08:50 PM

You sir, did an excellent job. The only thing I would advise you do is securely attach the turret to the blaster with a more rigid fixture. Threaded 1/2" PVC couplers are nice because they are very strong but do not need gluing.

They need vicegrips for disassembly, but meh. They also can be converted to normal couplers by unscrewing the male thread and sticking on another male fitting (this adds minor deadspace).

Edited by Curly, 25 July 2011 - 08:51 PM.

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#3 b1g13en

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 09:16 PM

ignore this post.

Edited by b1g13en, 25 July 2011 - 09:19 PM.

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#4 HasreadCoC

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 09:27 PM

You sir, did an excellent job. The only thing I would advise you do is securely attach the turret to the blaster with a more rigid fixture. Threaded 1/2" PVC couplers are nice because they are very strong but do not need gluing.

They need vicegrips for disassembly, but meh. They also can be converted to normal couplers by unscrewing the male thread and sticking on another male fitting (this adds minor deadspace).

I had originally planned on this, but since the final product only weighs about as much as the SorrowX printed turrets, and I plan on PETG barrels, I don't think falling off due to weight will be a problem. If anyone uses CPVC for barrels though they should do this, as then there might be enough weight to cause a problem.
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#5 Blue

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Posted 25 July 2011 - 11:43 PM

You can do this to firefly and quadshot turrets too. All I did to mod a quadshot turret into an attachment was glue a foam ring and rubber washer to some PVC and glue it to the mech part so the washer lined up with the turret holes. Works because of the slip clutch (the part they put in so kids don't break the guns by manually rotating them.) Yours looks a million times better and also a lot more durable too.

Great job with the turret rear loading mods, looks fantastic. I don't quite understand what the polycarb circle is for though, it certainly looks cool, but why not use the original base? Also sort of related, if you have a compass, all you need to do is trace out the circle and you can easily find the center. http://www.makeitsol...rcle-center.htm
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#6 HasreadCoC

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Posted 26 July 2011 - 01:57 PM

You can do this to firefly and quadshot turrets too. All I did to mod a quadshot turret into an attachment was glue a foam ring and rubber washer to some PVC and glue it to the mech part so the washer lined up with the turret holes. Works because of the slip clutch (the part they put in so kids don't break the guns by manually rotating them.) Yours looks a million times better and also a lot more durable too.

Great job with the turret rear loading mods, looks fantastic. I don't quite understand what the polycarb circle is for though, it certainly looks cool, but why not use the original base? Also sort of related, if you have a compass, all you need to do is trace out the circle and you can easily find the center. http://www.makeitsol...rcle-center.htm

Yup, this can pretty much be done to any turret that uses the same basic system, I'd love to see someone do a Berserker 20 shot turret LOL. The circle is for support, and a better seal because of the way it keeps the turret pressed to the seal, kinda hard to explain, but it really works. I had originally planned to use the original base but didn't because of: the extra bulk, decreased seal (circle solves this), and the fact that I'd only have room for 3 - 4 rear loading holes due to structural limitations, whereas this has 7 at any given time. I changed it all about half way through my first build to this way LOL, it really is an improvement, though it requires a scroll saw (or big hole saw bit).
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#7 Curly

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Posted 26 July 2011 - 02:36 PM

I had originally planned on this, but since the final product only weighs about as much as the SorrowX printed turrets, and I plan on PETG barrels, I don't think falling off due to weight will be a problem.

It's not the weight that's the issue, it's slowly twisting the turret out of it's coupler when you advance the turret. Depending on your coupler/barrel stub fit that might not be an issue for some time, but they do degrade.
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