#1
Posted 19 July 2011 - 08:53 PM
Woot! 100 posts!
I thought I would do something special for my 100th post and with the recent death of my 2k I made it my goal to bring my 2k back from the dead.
The problem I found with my 2k was that the rubber o-ring piece that seals the tank had fallen off from repeated use and got wedged in the back of the tank. In addition to the fixing the placement of the o-ring I also took advantage of the process to improve the airflow of the tank.
stuff needed
drill press(preferred)/drill
various drill bits
epoxy glue
1" PVC end cap
dremel
dremel cutting wheel
large pipe cutter
exacto knife
I was removing the goo gage so I separated the tank and trimmed down the nub and stem.
To begin you want to split open the tank somewhat close to the front of the tank. To do this you want to take the pipe cutters and cut as deep as possible.
Only Use The Circular Pipe Cutters!
This will not open the tank, to open the tank there are three bars that can be easily cut with the exacto knife.
The split tank should look like this. (with out the o-ring)
and the top part
and the o-ring
Next replace the o-ring on the front nub of the post that seals the tank.
In addition to the fix, the air flow can easily improved, my tank was already minimized in the front and so I widened the front hole from this:
to this:
Next you will need to prepare the PVC end cap. To start you need to drill a centered hole on the top of the end cap.
I personally drilled a hole that fit 1/2" CPVC to make it easy to attach a barrel. In addition to the hole you want to trim the end cap down to fit the tank all the way in when epoxyed.
After that comes the assembly of the tank. First make sure the inside bars are lined up. I marked the direction before I cut the tank open.
Then clamp the tank together and layer on the epoxy.
Once the first layer of epoxy is done drying slather the side of the tank in a lot of epoxy and insert it into the modified end cap. Let dry and attach the tubing and you get the finished product.
Questions, Comments?
#2
Posted 19 July 2011 - 09:05 PM
Any chance you have some pics of the seal around the pin?
Youtube
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#3
Posted 20 July 2011 - 08:48 AM
The increased airflow can be noticed by the increased visibilityof the o-ring from the front.
The hole looks really uneven in the pic but its barely uneven in real life.
The over all results are:
The 2k holds and realeases pressure and is fully functional
The air is released faster therefore increasing power
#4
Posted 20 July 2011 - 06:30 PM
#5
Posted 20 July 2011 - 08:02 PM
The seal looks like this from the front.
Heh, thanks, but I meant the other side. Any chance of internal pics of the area where the pin comes out of the back of the valve? I'm just curious as to how Nerf accomplished it, and I don't really wanna demolish one of my 2Ks to find out.
Youtube
LS and Retaliator boltsleds are currently available at https://www.facebook.com/RoboM8/
#6
Posted 21 July 2011 - 10:47 AM
To fix the rubber thing falling off, all you need is a paperclip and some E-6000/goop. Pull the pin all the way back, then fish around in the tank with the bent paper clip until the rubber thing falls forward (Do this with the tank upside down). Move it off to the side of the front wall of the tank then use the paperclip to apply goop to the pin, shake the tank around until the rubber thing falls into the airflow place and centers itself, then push the pin back up and it will secure to the rubber thing. To fix the airflow all you need is a dremel, assuming the stem has already been cut. There is a clear line separating the two pieces of plastic, so just sand a slot through the first layer until you see the second then peel it off using a sharp knife. Alternatively, you can just cut off that whole front part of the tank so that it is flush.
In my case the o-ring was wedged in the back of he tank and I couldn't replace it using anything, I spent a good 30 min of tinkering. Plus this also increases the strength of the tank, and since I'm using a pluged pump this mod is a plus in more than one way.
Later I'm also planning using a coupler on another tank to expand it.
Heh, thanks, but I meant the other side. Any chance of internal pics of the area where the pin comes out of the back of the valve? I'm just curious as to how Nerf accomplished it, and I don't really wanna demolish one of my 2Ks to find out.
Sorry but I never took apart the back of where the pin goes through and I dont have any pics of the interals of the back.
#7
Posted 21 July 2011 - 05:18 PM
Sorry but I never took apart the back of where the pin goes through and I dont have any pics of the interals of the back.
Aw, okay. Thanks anyways!
Youtube
LS and Retaliator boltsleds are currently available at https://www.facebook.com/RoboM8/
#8
Posted 25 July 2011 - 01:04 PM
*I've done a small test and have noticed a significant energy increase. It doesn't get much over 70' flat but it hits my target at 25' away with a lot more energy. Great inspiration idea.
#9
Posted 25 July 2011 - 08:33 PM
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