The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade
#26
Posted 26 June 2011 - 11:26 PM
~Talio
#27
Posted 19 August 2011 - 08:26 PM
This looks awesome! But I'm not quite clear on the O-ring. Is it glued around the inner edge of the tee(like concentric circles)? What's its function? Thanks.
The concentric circles idea is correct. The function of the O-ring is to reduce air leakage out the hole for the trigger, so that as much air as possible is used to propel the dart forwards (instead of leaking out around the trigger).
...and ideas are bulletproof. "
#28
Posted 24 August 2011 - 08:37 PM
Something I found helpful in my build was rather than using an O-ring,get a rubber washer with the appropriate ID for your lag screw. It's just a different way of accomplishing the same thing, but it was a lot easier to glue since it has more surface area in contact with the Tee. It might have just been poor construction, but I get a better seal around my trigger as well.The concentric circles idea is correct. The function of the O-ring is to reduce air leakage out the hole for the trigger, so that as much air as possible is used to propel the dart forwards (instead of leaking out around the trigger).
#29
Posted 27 August 2011 - 09:34 PM
#30
Posted 27 August 2011 - 11:04 PM
#31
Posted 27 August 2011 - 11:18 PM
I can find them in Canadian stores, so Americans have no excuse not to find them. They're not usually with the normal PVC at Lowes, try with the ball valves and odd fittings, typically across from the normal PVC stuff.For those having trouble finding a check valve in stores, try different Lowes stores. Home Depot definitely won't have them, and even most of the Lowes' I've been to don't carry them either. I got lucky and found a Lowes with the biggest PVC selection I've seen in any hardware store. They carried the check valves in 1/2" 3/4" and 1" sizes.
Small check valves are also great for blast buttons on BP tanks.
Edited by Curly, 27 August 2011 - 11:20 PM.
#32
Posted 28 August 2011 - 09:46 AM
And airfink, have you done comparisons between seal and no seal? Cause if its getting 110 without the seal, it probably could gain a few more feet with a seal.
#33
Posted 01 September 2011 - 11:06 PM
For me to find them in my Lowes I had to walk all the way past the copper piping to the area with the ball valves like curly said.
And airfink, have you done comparisons between seal and no seal? Cause if its getting 110 without the seal, it probably could gain a few more feet with a seal.
I haven't done a comparison, and that's because with ranges like that I just don't feel the need to bother with increasing the seal there. I worry that if I make it any more powerful it'll become dangerous. The massive amount of deadspace and that leaky trigger are there to keep the blaster from being too powerful. I had built another one in which I had substantially less dead space and a better seal with a similar size tank and found that even with slugs it was able to tear holes in the top layer of drywall at point blank range, and dent it at 30 feet. I consider that to be far too much power. I didn't officially range it, because long before I got to that point I had decided it was far too powerful.
So yes, you can make a JSPB style blaster that is far more nasty than a titan if you want to. I chose not to. Please don't bring it to a war if you do.
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