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Bolt Action Spring Rifle

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#1 Vintage

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Posted 12 April 2004 - 06:06 PM

I know many have tried to make a bolt action homemade (some succeeded, some didn't). Many have posted their method of doing so. I, for one, do not have the will or money to make a design to the likes of Boltsniper's beast.

I do however have a design (looks good on paper) of a spring bolt action.

Here is the picture:

Posted Image
(Edit: Cropped picture to make it easier to see.)

What do you think of it? I believe the mechanism is pretty straight forward but if you have questions, feel free to ask.

Edit/

Three notes:
1. The bolt will be located on the side of the gun, not the top as in the picture (couldn't graphically portray my vision there in Paint).

2. The trigger will be hinged onto the gun somehow.

3. The magazine could also be done in a bottom feeding spring mag if I put the time into it.


Maybe Ill get to work on this idea when I finish my automatic idea or if that idea doesn't work out.

~Vintage

Edited by Vintage, 12 May 2004 - 04:40 PM.

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#2 hellsangel

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Posted 12 April 2004 - 06:18 PM

It would be nice if your pictures were slightly smaller but it looks like a pretty good idea. Good luck with both projects! ^_^
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#3 texmustache

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Posted 12 April 2004 - 07:04 PM

Your plans seem sound enough. However, everything looks good on paper...its building it thats the problem! I'm not trying to discourage you, far from it, but keep in mind it wont be easy. OKay, here are some tips while your building your rifle:

Looking at your picture, it appears your bolt groove goes all the way back to your sear. This is a big no-no, because that means all the air goes out there when you fire. This happened in my first bolt rifle. To attempt to solve this, you have to put the bolt on the front of a piece of PVC, so when the bolt is all the way back, the groove doesn't go all the way as well. However, this means your chamber is a lot larger than your actual spring movement, so the air slows down as it reaches your barrel, meaning you'd be lucky to get it to fire any distance. I suggest start with a pull back rifle, then give a bolt action a go. /edit: If you have the piece of PVC that extends the bolt your barrel as well, it might work better. This would still make the clip system hard, but i discourage a clip for your first one.

Second, you must remember to allow space for the spring to compress. Although your design isn't to scale, keep that in mind.

Thirdly, a good size for your spring chamber is 1" CPVC and 5/8 OD gasket/O-ring.

Fourth, i assume you haven't built anything yet. My recommendation is that you leave out the magazine for now, in an effort to simplify your project.

Other than that, looks good.

Edited by texmustache, 12 April 2004 - 07:06 PM.

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#4 Vintage

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Posted 12 April 2004 - 07:11 PM

Thanks for the info.
However, if you look at the diagram, the piston is as long as the bolt chamber.
When it is fully cocked, and the bolt is pushed forward again, the piston will still have a tight seal in the chamber. It shouldn't leak through the bolt groove.

Yes, I have made the Zero ball valve gun, and my own version of the cutlass hose handle gun.

Thanks for the tip about the spring, and leaving room for it to compress and still latch the piston on the trigger.

~Vintage
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#5 xedice

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Posted 12 April 2004 - 08:47 PM

All of my projects 'looked' good on paper. Building was a bitch. Texmustache put it best. Keep everything as simple as possible, because if you don't you won't get the building done in the time you want. I learned that the hard way with many unfinished complicated homemades. Good luck with your design, eager to hear how it turns out!
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#6 Vintage

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Posted 13 April 2004 - 08:37 AM

I did try to simplify the design as much as I could possible fathom. However, I forgot to tell you how the design works. Here's where I think we started off on the wrong foot.

So this is a step-by-step list of the shooting process: (Please understand that pieces of the same color are bonded together)

1. The pink, bolt section is pulled toward rear of gun through the barrel.

2. The light-blue piston is pulled back with it, compressing the spring.

3. The piston cap is latched onto the trigger and held in its compressed state.

4. A dart drops down into the barrel

5. The bolt is pressed all the way forward again, chambering the dart.

6. The trigger is pulled, sending the light-blue piston flying forward to create compressed air.

7. The dart is launched out the barrel.


I understand that if I designed this to scale, I am not sure if the bolt chamber has enough air room for compression. As I enjoy working around flaws like this, I always try to find ways around them.

I hope this post clears up some of your questions.

~Vintage
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#7 Techno-Dann

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Posted 13 April 2004 - 11:08 AM

Just a few problems that I can see with it:
When your bolt comes back forward, it's probably going to catch the bottom edge of the dart right above the one in the chamber. Obviously, this is going to make quite a mess out of your darts.
Also, if you want to get good range out of your gun, you'll need to have a fairly stiff spring, which could be really hard to compress with a bolt. Maybe you could run a bolt out of either side of the gun, and then make a pump assembly.
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#8 Vintage

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Posted 13 April 2004 - 11:23 AM

Also, if you want to get good range out of your gun, you'll need to have a fairly stiff spring, which could be really hard to compress with a bolt. Maybe you could run a bolt out of either side of the gun, and then make a pump assembly.


Thanks for that idea. Might make an effective shotgun action gun.

As to the bolt slider problem, thank you. I might be able to round off the edge around the bolt slider to keep it from catching the dart above the chambered one. Otherwise, I would have to use shells which are in my opinion, too complicated.

Edit:

I also noted this under my automatic design, but I found out that my local Home Depot and True Value don't carry brass pipe. Any suggestions as to where I can get it? I would rather buy from a physical store than from an online site, but as a last resort, I might try one.

Today I'm going to try Menards and Ace Hardware.

Edited by Vintage, 14 April 2004 - 08:41 AM.

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#9 Techno-Dann

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 11:00 AM

Unfortunatley, most hardware stores theses days don't carry brass pipe. I'd suggest that you grab your phone book, and look for any stores under the 'brass' or the 'pipe' categories.
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#10 Spectre2689

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 12:02 PM

Hobby shops usually carry brass pipes.

I still don't get the bolt/spring idea. It looks like when you pull the bolt back, it will cpmpress the spring, and lock it. To do this, you'll need a groove for the bolt handle to slide back in. When you chamber the dart, the groove will still be there, and the air would leak out the groove. A way to counter this would be to somehow make an outer tube that would cover and seal the groove. Somehow. I don't know yet.

Also, when the piston comes back, the bolt is still pressing up against it. The trigger will be trying to come up to catch the piston, but the bolt will be in the way. Unless you cut out a little groove in the bottom rear of the bolt large enough for the catch to do it's job, it might not work. On the same not, how will the catch work without a catch spring to get it where it's supposed to go? One of those wierd springs that go on the hinge and ...nuts I can't describe it. You might know what I'm talking about.

Sorry if you addressed this already, but it just doesn't work in my mind. Maybe I'm missing something...?
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#11 Vintage

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 02:43 PM

Sorry about any confusion. Here's another picture that might help you to understand:

Posted Image

There is a bolt groove, but as you see in the picture, air should not leak through it.

There also is a notch cut in the bolt slider to let the trigger catch the piston. (edit: Oops I forgot to make the notch in the 3rd picture)

I know what kind of spring you are talking about, but I am still not sure how to attach the trigger.

The dark blue piece is the rubber cap that creates the compressed air.

I quickly drew this up in Paint, so the scale is not right. And I left out the magazine and grip to simplify things.

One more thing to note is that the actual bolt groove will be on the side of the gun.
I just couldn't show this in paint. Maybe I will render a 3d model for you. If you want one...

~Vintage

Edited by Vintage, 14 April 2004 - 02:44 PM.

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#12 CheeseNerfer

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Posted 08 May 2004 - 03:39 PM

Sweet idea but the actual gun would be huge because you have so man layers of tubing in there.
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#13 Hunter

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Posted 08 May 2004 - 07:18 PM

Check out my BABBB (Bolt Action Big Bad Bow)

I'll put a link... won't have to post pictures/explain here.

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#14 Vintage

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Posted 09 May 2004 - 12:09 PM

Sweet idea but the actual gun would be huge because you have so man layers of tubing in there.

Actually, as I have found out in my automatic gun construction, brass layers make for a very sleek, thin construction. It should be very slim.

Check out my BABBB (Bolt Action Big Bad Bow)

Nice. I assume you push the bolt forward to open the breech? And pull it back to shut it.

I am almost done with the automatic, so I should be able to start on the bolt-action, or my pistol idea. Oh, and I am sorry I haven't been around lately. It's been a busy week.

~Vintage

Edited by Vintage, 09 May 2004 - 12:14 PM.

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#15 UpGraD3

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Posted 09 May 2004 - 05:34 PM

Vintage can't wait to see your finished products. I sent you a pm also.
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