The core of this mod is the Iron Man Super Soaker, aka the Arctic Blast. Internal shots are located on iSoaker's page. This is a CPS derivative, meaning that it uses a Magstrike-like bladder, sealed in a solvent-welded cylinder, to store pressure. Basic mods to this blaster are easy - Jerm did it years ago - but some TLC is necessary to make it war-ready.
Below are my blaster's internals. The water tank's not necessary, so I removed it immediately.
Mod 1: Link the Top Valve
The bread and butter of this mod is linking the massive top valve to the trigger. If you're ballsy and/or want an integration, you can saw off that useless bottom valve altogether. Cut it off where it meets the top valve and securely attach a hose barb to the pipe. I embedded a brass mender with Goop and reinforced it with Zap-a-Gap, but solvent-welding a plastic barb would be a superior option.
Remove the spring from the bottom valve, then deconstruct the top valve's "snapping" mechanism. Glue a small bit of plastic to the valve to limit the lever's range of motion so it won't be open at rest. I don't have a pic of that yet. Replace the white bit over the lever, but don't include the black wire or the top handle. Use the bottom valve's extension spring instead of the original one for an easier trigger pull. Expand the hole on the top valve's lever and reinforce it with some scrap plastic or aluminum.
Connect the valve arm to the trigger using coat hanger or music wire. Note the 90-degree bend in the wire I used, which gets around the valve's screw posts. To make sure your trigger is stable, use pliers to make sharp bends and don't leave any wiggle room on the trigger.
Now, add a coupler on the top valve. If you're as neurotic as I am, fire up a Dremel or hole saw and expand the orange nozzle protector to fit. If you left the bottom nozzle intact, add a coupler and a new spring, and rig up a keyring trigger.
Mod 2: Pump Replacement
The stock pump takes 30 strokes to fill the bladder to a usable level, so replace that shit! You'll have an easier time getting everything in the shell if your pump valve is at a right angle. I used a Schwinn bike frame pump from K-mart with a Slime hose barb from Ace.
If you remove the tank and put a nice, big nut and bolt through the clip that comes with the pump, you can hold it in place without adhesives. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the blaster to lead the hose through. This locks the pump in place and makes setting up the internals easier.
Mod 3: Integration
Even with that bitchin' new pump, it still takes a while to pressurize a shot. Why not use that shell space for an integration and save your ass from rushing? An AT3K tank is perfect integration material for this blaster. Add a coupler and hose barb…
...then bend the firing pin, add a keyring trigger, and connect it all together.
The tee and check valves were bought at Petco. Lucian says the check valves are only rated to 5psi, so use them at your own risk. Jamming this all in is a little tricky, so cut notches in the ribs to hold the tubing in place.
Make sure everything fits, then use epoxy putty or hot glue to attach your integration. I put 2' PVC dummy barrels in both couplers to help line them up - this is much easier when someone helps you!
Finally, reassemble the blaster, let the glue dry, and test-fire.
Mod 4: Uber-1337 Tactical Rails!!
There's another problem left to fix - that weirdly-angled tank prevents you from aiming down the barrel. An easy fix*: Attach an N-Strike rail on top so you can use optics! Tacticool! You'll need to support one end of the rail with hot glue or epoxy putty, since none of the top panels are parallel with the barrels.
Why not add another rail on the side?
Appendix: Using the Blaster, Barrels, and the Risk of Personal Injury
The tank holds a LOT of air, and moves it quickly, so long barrels are a must. I use an 8" hopper and a 14" brass barrel. The top barrel fires Slugs 120', their maximum range. This blaster is unsafe when loaded with heavyweight Stefans - don't use them!
I pump the bladder 9-13 times, and the 3K gets two strokes. 10 strokes is enough for normal use, and 12 will make up for the extra dead-space if the hopper is almost empty. The bladder can probably withstand 20 or more pumps, but I doubt that the integration and tubing can.
A word about safety: This blaster is REALLY POWERFUL. It can fire Titan missiles. When using any strong blaster in a war, you need to be considerate and responsible. Limit your range by using an RSCB or hopper, and always use Slugs or stock darts. This blaster will fire on as little as 5 pumps, so under-pump when you can.
*OK, so the easiest way to aim down the barrel is to use a tall Chopper or RSCB. However, N-Strike accessories are more awesome. Your choice.
Edited by Zack the Mack, 12 August 2010 - 01:26 PM.
