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Raider - Replaced Internals (mega Missile) - The Mega Raider

Still takes clips and drums. REV 2 COMPLETE SEE LATEST POST

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#1 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:00 AM

Hey everyone.

I've been around here for a whole, however didn't really want to post without anything decent to contribute. I'd like to thank the while community for all the great content, almost everything I've learned about nerf has been through a combination of this site, some research and good old fashioned trial and error.

Special props go to popatachi who did something similar earlier, though I did not consult his mod for this it certainly paved the way.

Raiders suck balls. Period.

I wanted to make one that didn't. Actually I wanted a clip fed gun with 4B kind of power, and the raider shell turned out to be way too perfect. It is a comfortable and cool looking shell, especially with the fron handle removed. Given that they both have the same breech this could be adapted to a recon etc

AFTER I'd done this mod a friend went "oh coop made a clipped big blast", which you can get the same functionality out of, however I like this shell so so so much more than the 4b, the pump faces fowards and is more efficient and it actually holds clips and drums well and uses the stock clip lock for additional stability.

Things I achieved
- consistent, reliable feeding from n strike clips
- greater than 100 ft range
- uses stock clip receiver
- No glue holding anything structural - all hardware
- Comfort and accuracy

So here we go. I sometimes forgot to take photos until after I had completed a stage so the pictures are not completely step by step, I apologize.

Step 1 - Open up your raider and your mega missile. Having a 2nd gen mega missle is key as the tank is not welded to the pump, but rather connected with tube.

Disconnect the tube but keep the white lock nut, and gut the raider internals save the jam door. Keep the trigger and the brackets that hold in the boltsled. Anything else is useless.

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place the tank in the raider, so the right angle connector extending from the tank is sitting just in front of a piece of shell that sticks up near the trigger.

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Mark where the large centre band of the MM tank is on the 2 internal walls of the raider shell and cut a channel so the tank can sit within the walls. This is all you need to do to fit the tank.. freaky right? it's like too easy...

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As you can see in the pics I have cut my mega missle barrel (the orange bit) off about 3-4mm above the black part of the tank. do this now if you haven't already.

Cut a 20mm conduit couple at the 3/4 mark. it should now fit onto the front of the tank with some 'persuasion'

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Now I put a piece of 20mm UPVC in the coupler and put the tank inside and closed the shell. Using a fine tipped sharpie I marked where the clip would go when placed in the stock clip receiver.

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Then I took it all apart, clipped on a nstrike clip within the lines I had drawn and traced around the top of the clip.

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Cut it all out and it will look like this

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Now to make a slide breech work correctly with clips there must be a 'nub' that the dart gets pushed back against to force it into the breech. Making this 'nub' in the limited space was challenging and this is what I came up with. most importantly it has to get fixed to the tank but not interfere with the x shaped guide which ensures the valve makes it back to correct postion after each firing. There is very little room to play with behind the breech before the tank, so it cannot be attached to the walls of the barrel or you will sacrifice some of the precious little sealing surface.

So what I came up with.. cut (roughly) 2cm of 1/2" brass and 17/32 brass. glue the 1/2 inside the 17/32 halfway down. Sand/lathe a piece of 12mm OD ALU tube until it fits inside the 17/32. glue it all together and then inside the orange stub sticking out the tank, being careful with your glue so you dont glue the tank shut. pics will help this make sense

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I used a 19/32 and 9/16th sliding breech - the part cut to match the conduit is the 19/32 while a whole piece of 9/16th slides back and forth.

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Edited by -Aj-, 29 August 2010 - 04:56 AM.

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#2 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:02 AM

I nested the front of the 9/16th in some more 20mm UPVC and attached a handle to it through a combination of hardware, solvent weld and titan bond (super strong shit)

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Here's a shot of the breech with a streamline in it - accommodating streamline size darts is necessary if you want to use drums unless you are one of the like.. 3? 4? people who have made reliable stefan modded drums.

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now on to the pump. Magstrike pumps seem like they were made to fit in the shell... diddle it accordingly so everything will fit.

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Choose how you are going to secure your pump. if you want to use glue that is fine, I chose to use hardware - I used a 20mm conduit pipe clip, affixed by a bolt to a smal piece of polycarb.

This polycarb has a 4mm tapped hole in it allowing it to be attached to the raider shell with a bolt.I also placed a 15mm (1/2") PVC coupler on the front of the pump and attached this with a screw to the shell.. again pics will help it make sense.

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I chose to replace my pump handle with a PVC T and end cap combo, with about 10mm of PVC sticking out the T, so it 'locks' into the coupler on the front of the pump, preventing it from extending while I run around with it slung on my back.

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The T also allows me to add a foregrip

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Join the pump up to the tank - I used 4mm PVC tubing and 4mm barbed connectors, you yanks will have the proper 1/8" connectors.

Now the part that took the longest to figure out - the trigger. I wanted lever action, as I had seen how much more effective they are in the new model 4B's. In the end I came up with this..

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it's 3mm Alu, which you can buy in 3x20x1000mm strips in Aus. I cut it using a hacksaw and a metal cutting wheel on a dremel.

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The orange hinge pieces are made out of the pieces which hold the boltsled in, simply cut, sand and attach, it shouldn't be too hard to tell what to do from the pics.

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The bar which the trigger pivots on goes into a pre-existing screw port in the shell, which one of the internal pieces screwed into. drill a hole in the other side of the shell to accomodate the bar.

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Here's some pictures of the trigger.

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Edited by -Aj-, 28 July 2010 - 10:06 AM.

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#3 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:05 AM

Here's a shot of it all together

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Here's a couple photos on how I dremeled the shell to get the trigger to work

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Now, close your shell up, test it, make any adjustments as necessary. I had to open and dremel the shell a couple times to get unrestricted trigger pull and return.

You should have something kinda like this

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EDIT: Firing Video is here

Ranges - 100-120 feet with 4 pumps

Rev 2 is under construction, aiming to be simpler and with easier to get parts for some things (like a small widely available bike pump for the pump) along with just generally being cleaner.

So yeah, hope some people got something out of this and that its worthy content for these parts.

cheers

Aj

Edited by -Aj-, 28 July 2010 - 10:47 AM.

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#4 debandgeek12

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:12 AM

I find this extremely useful. I'm unfamiliar with UPVC. Where did you get yours?
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the leaking was all in the bladder

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#5 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:16 AM

It's available at all hardware stores - it is the piping they run electrical wires in and is sold in long (3-4 meter) lengths. It comes in grey and orange, with both having the same OD but different IDs.

20mm is the most common, with 16mm being harder to find in Aus, it has the same dimensions as your 1/2" CPVC

16mm UPVC nests airtight inside 20mm grey, making for excellent slide breeches, whilst thick wall PETG nests airtight in orange 20mm conduit, also making it very easy to make petg slide breeches in Australia

Aj
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#6 debandgeek12

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:23 AM

Oh I understand. I think at my local hardware store it's sold as conduit PVC.
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the leaking was all in the bladder

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#7 NerfRogue83

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:23 AM

Although the Raiders main attribute in many peoples eyes is its superior ROF, this is still cool. You made something unique, and though you gave up the high ROF---I think you are still left with a capable blaster. Your trigger mech is very nice too, good work. Its nice to see new ideas, keep it up.
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#8 debandgeek12

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:29 AM

I agree whole-heartedly Rogue. Indeed, without the slamfire, the raider loses it's maximum ROF, but this is essentially an airgun version of what Kane did by butting a Raider drum on a BBB. Both mods use the capacity of the drum, but do not have the ROF of the Raider. However, I think this gets better ranges than the BBB, no?
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the leaking was all in the bladder

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#9 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:34 AM

Whilst its ROF is bad compared to the raider, it is very good compared to a regular 4B or other such weapon, as wyes are not available in Australia, so hoppers are out.

The range is about 100-120 feet, which is slightly more than a BBB usually achieves I think.

Aj
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#10 k9turrent

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:53 AM

LMAO

To be honest good job, I'm actually working on the exact same thing except I'm using a 3k tank.

Amazing work.
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That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


HOLY CRAP!

FU ALL

#11 SonReeceSonJensen

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 12:07 PM

Several mad props for the use of hardware and not having your blaster look like Swiss cheese with ‘oops’ holes all over it.

It looks hella BA, also. The cleanliness is outstanding and I love the look.
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#12 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 12:16 PM

LMAO

To be honest good job, I'm actually working on the exact same thing except I'm using a 3k tank.

Amazing work.



It was my initial thought, but 3k tank = rare-ish + $$, MM tank = larger, able to take more pressure and $8.99 AUD at any TRU

Aj
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#13 ahtanie

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 12:29 PM

I like it.
Quality of pictures can be improved though haha.
Great job nonetheless! :P
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#14 popatachi

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 12:33 PM

Awesome work and really clean. The trigger setup is awesome!
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#15 Broderick

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 01:40 PM

LMAO

To be honest good job, I'm actually working on the exact same thing except I'm using a 3k tank.

Amazing work.



It was my initial thought, but 3k tank = rare-ish + $$, MM tank = larger, able to take more pressure and $8.99 AUD at any TRU

Aj

I'm pretty sure a 3K tank has more volume, but the range is negligible at about a 10 foot difference maximum.
Fantastic gun man, this is probably my favorite conversion of any gun that I've seen. I'm an airgun person, and the fact that you combined this into one of Nerf's most comfortable shells ever, while keeping the N-strike clip system in such a clean manner is great. I love the way you set up the trigger as well, it seems much more reliable than the average "bend the wire, connect and glue it to a popsicle stick" kind of thing. Major props.
I know you're Australian, so I'm guessing UPVC = Sch. 40 PVC here in the states? It's cool that it comes in orange though.... Us Americans need to switch solely to the metric system. :P Measurements in MM would be so much easier.
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#16 Aj

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 07:09 PM

I'm pretty sure a 3K tank has more volume, but the range is negligible at about a 10 foot difference maximum.
Fantastic gun man, this is probably my favorite conversion of any gun that I've seen. I'm an airgun person, and the fact that you combined this into one of Nerf's most comfortable shells ever, while keeping the N-strike clip system in such a clean manner is great. I love the way you set up the trigger as well, it seems much more reliable than the average "bend the wire, connect and glue it to a popsicle stick" kind of thing. Major props.
I know you're Australian, so I'm guessing UPVC = Sch. 40 PVC here in the states? It's cool that it comes in orange though.... Us Americans need to switch solely to the metric system. :lol: Measurements in MM would be so much easier.


Nope, the MM tank is noticeably larger than a 3k tank, I have both.

UPVC = electrical conduit, not SCH40, which is basically just the 'pvc' most people refer to.

Thanks everyone for the props, rev 2 will be up soonish

Aj
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#17 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:04 PM

Awesome job. Obviously not the most original concept, but your implementation and the small refinements made are impeccable.

That lever for the trigger is especially tits. Great use of parts.
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#18 Phree Agent

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:42 PM

I really like this mod. The rate of fire really wasn't as lost as some people are saying. The one thing that would really blow me away is if the Rev. 2 somehow had a linked pump handle and slide breech handle. Like on the first pump of the pump handle it would also load the breech, but the 2nd/3rd/4th pump would not open and close it. Then it would be just as fast as a hoppered 4B. That system wound definitely add complexity to the design though which I know you said you wanted to lessen with the Rev. 2.
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#19 nate the great

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:46 AM

I really like this mod. The rate of fire really wasn't as lost as some people are saying. The one thing that would really blow me away is if the Rev. 2 somehow had a linked pump handle and slide breech handle. Like on the first pump of the pump handle it would also load the breech, but the 2nd/3rd/4th pump would not open and close it. Then it would be just as fast as a hoppered 4B. That system wound definitely add complexity to the design though which I know you said you wanted to lessen with the Rev. 2.


Well if you added a piece from the pump handle that pushed the breech open, on the first pump the breech would open, then you would pump it the rest. Then all you would have to do is close the breech.
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#20 Aj

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 10:56 AM

Rev 2 is complete as of tonight

After a lot of testing, some war experience etc I identified some issued with the rev 1 design
  • The trigger would occasionally not return all the way, leaving the valve open slightly
  • The 'feeding nub' on the end of the tank was too long, sometimes causing streamlines to jam
  • The hornet pump had a longer stroke than comfortable
  • The stock tubing was attached to the magstrike pump via a non barbed fitting and was prone to start leaking if you pumped the gun up more than 6-7 times
  • Look wasn't quite as clean as I thught possible
Rev 2 adresses all of these issues

It uses a Schwinn mini frame bike pump (also recently featured in the 'iron man super soaker' mod) so you dont have to ruin a magstrike.

I also created a breech using nested and telescoping sizes of brass so that I can shoot streamlines, 'blue foam' darts that we have here and 'white foam' darts that we have here (tightish fit in 9/16, much larger than your stefans)

Finally the trigger pull feels better and the trigger return problem was solved with a nice beefy trigger return spring forcing the plate back to its starting position

looks super clean

Pump mounted using 3 screws, 1 small piece of PC and is rock solid and easily removable.

pics and writeup soon

Aj

Edited by -Aj-, 29 August 2010 - 09:24 AM.

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#21 Wenie288

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 12:23 PM

That is Amazing, Props for everything on that gun. Nice too see something different
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#22 KitAdrian

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 01:05 AM

if you linked 4 separate pumps with the loading mechanism, would you get the same result in one movement?

1 pump x 4 strokes, 1 Load mech x 1 stroke = 5 movements to prime

(4 pumps + 1 load mech) x 1 stroke = 1 movement to prime

Of course, that would require 4 identical pumps, and that might be a little large on the gun.
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#23 TantumBull

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 02:18 AM

if you linked 4 separate pumps with the loading mechanism, would you get the same result in one movement?

1 pump x 4 strokes, 1 Load mech x 1 stroke = 5 movements to prime

(4 pumps + 1 load mech) x 1 stroke = 1 movement to prime

Of course, that would require 4 identical pumps, and that might be a little large on the gun.

Too bad you'd need to be Jesus to prime it. That is if whatever connected the pumps together didn't fail before you finished the stroke.
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#24 Aj

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 07:29 AM

..... It's an Airgun... you pump them up.. thats kinda the deal... It has better ROF than any of the ones down here, except maybe the couple RSCB big blasts floating around, but its more consistent and about the same ROF

I dont really care about having two handles to operate, because the brass breech is super tight it takes a bit of effort to pupp out and push back in, also the strokes are not the same length (breech and pump)

I'm painting it now, I was going to take photos but figure I may as well wait till I'm done

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#25 Aj

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 04:29 AM

About as close to a legitimate double post as you can get

Rev.2

Breech uses 3 sizes of brass telescoped for more reliable feeding along with the ability to shoot any kind of ammo.

Pump is mounted using only 2 bolts and no glue.

Is super clean, looks hot yo

Paint was done in 1 night (6 or so hours, had a war the next day) which is much more rushed than I like. It looks sweet now but I'm a bit of a perfectionist with paint, so it'll need some touch ups, after a few years out the game I'm a bit rusty.

I dont think there is enough difference to warrant a separate write up.

pics

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you cannot tell me this is not damn clean pump integration to the shell

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All the components

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Range tested today and yesterday at the nerf war

between 160-200 ft with CDTS, depends on how good the dart is

120' (average) with blue foam stefans

110 (average) with white foam stefans (much much tighter fit)

this is flat btw

enjoy

Aj

Edited by -Aj-, 29 August 2010 - 04:33 AM.

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