12 replies to this topic

[Blue]

Sold it.

Edited by Blue, 11 August 2010 - 01:45 AM.

[MindWarrior]

Would aluminum sheeting of the side do the trick?

[nate the great]

JB Weld and or epoxy does the trick nicely.

[BritNerfMogul]

JB Weld and or epoxy does the trick nicely.

Have you personally done this and can you show us pics if it has worked. I've always had the same problem with my RFR's, and I'm kinda sick of it.

Edited by BritNerfMogul, 24 July 2010 - 10:16 AM.

[nate the great]

My friend has done it but I cant get pics. It's pretty simple though, slap some JBweld on the crack, clamp it together, then sand off excess JB weld.

[Blue]

Would aluminum sheeting of the side do the trick?

No, the priming bar slides over the sides.

My friend has done it but I cant get pics. It's pretty simple though, slap some JBweld on the crack, clamp it together, then sand off excess JB weld.

I'm not seeing how you would do this. If you globbed on Jb-Weld it would mess with the catch notch.

[Banshee]

I say use a plastic welder or even a soldering iron and melt the two ends together. Thats the only thing that I've found you can do when glues wont work.

[Lt Stefan]

I say use a plastic welder or even a soldering iron and melt the two ends together. Thats the only thing that I've found you can do when glues wont work.

When people use the term plastic or solvent weld, it doesn't mean using a deice to literally melt/weld the plastic pieces together through heat....

Solvent welding uses a solvent (chemical) to dissolve the surface of the plastic and re-harden the two pieces into one piece.


Edit: my bad. I misunderstood what you were saying.

Edited by Lt. Stefan, 24 July 2010 - 11:05 PM.

[Blue]

I cannot imagine solvent weld being STRONGER than the original plastics... So even if it does make it as good as stock it is still no good. I tried using Oatey PVC Cement on it and it broke after the bond was made.

[cheyner]

I say use a plastic welder or even a soldering iron and melt the two ends together. Thats the only thing that I've found you can do when glues wont work.

When people use the term plastic or solvent weld, it doesn't mean using a deice to literally melt/weld the plastic pieces together through heat....

Solvent welding uses a solvent (chemical) to dissolve the surface of the plastic and re-harden the two pieces into one piece.

And when he says plastic welder, or soldering iron, he means literally melting/welding the plastic pieces together through heat.
Did you see the word "solvent" anywhere in his post?

Heating the ends with something is most likely going to be your only option. The tricky part will be making sure you dont push to much together, making the priming rod curve.
I do not have one here in front of me, but you should be able to use a small ringed finishing nail to strengthen the joint, like you did with the catch.

[Hipponater]

My suggestion (untested though, obviously) is to epoxy the ends of the break together enough to hold them in alignment, then Dremel a slot lengthwise right through that catch tooth, and partway into each of the broken pieces. Try to take out approximately one-third of the plastic down the middle, maybe a little less. Then fill that void with epoxy putty. When that cures, carve away any excess.

This would probably be your best bet, as you need to reinforce it as well as fix it. I would cut/scratch at your cut out channel with a knife, though, if your cut is smooth, to give the epoxy putty more to grip to. If you could put a thin layer of epoxy on top/bottom, that would help to keep the epoxy putty steady.

[Banshee]

Maybe you should take this opportunity to instead of fixing the gun, build something new in the gun. Integrate some new internals into it, do something crazy! I know that's not what you have in mind, but if fixing it is too much work and you don't want to waste the gun, then make something out of it!

[Blue]

Gone.

Edited by Blue, 11 August 2010 - 01:46 AM.