Rr
#1
Posted 22 July 2010 - 10:11 PM
This blaster was designed for taking out long range targets in Humans Vs. Zombies, NOT nerf wars.
It uses what I call "assisted bolt-action." It's best described as the halfway point between bolt-action and semi-automatic. A fraction of a second after firing, the bolt opens. Due to the non-resetting trigger, the bolt stays open to allow the player to load a new dart. The trigger is then manually reset by pushing it forward which in turn closes the bolt and advances the dart. Because the action of pulling and manually resetting the trigger is so minimal compared to cycling a bolt, I call the process "assisted". The player never manipulates the bolt directly, only the trigger valve.
As you can see I have yet to install the actual trigger to the valve, but that'll be done soon. I still have to clean it all up a bit and then give it a healthy makeover with bright colored duct tape so it looks ridiculous as a nerf blaster should. More to come...
#3
Posted 22 July 2010 - 10:58 PM
#4
Posted 23 July 2010 - 12:59 AM
Here it as after being duct taped up.
Pretty ridiculous right? I think so.
A different color grip will be molded and the tank will be covered in something colorful.
#5
Posted 23 July 2010 - 09:43 AM
#6
Posted 23 July 2010 - 10:44 AM
Pretty cool, but I believe that classifies as total over kill.
Totally agree. I think that is PVCArs's thing, though
BUT…now that the hard part is done (linking power source, delivery, and trigger mechanism) I think that is serves as a great platform for variations much like the HAMP ‘engine’. A Mongo dart attachment or multiple barrels would be supertits.
-Guns shoot bullets that kill people
-Blasters shoot darts that tag people
I do not play with guns.
#7
Posted 23 July 2010 - 10:45 AM
I might suggest shortening the barrel. This barrel seems to be absurdly long.
I'm also concerned about cutting or smashing your fingers when loading. Do you think there might be a possibility of this?
Lt. Stefan, the ball valve probably acts like a safety. I've done similar things before.
#8
Posted 23 July 2010 - 10:53 AM
#9
Posted 23 July 2010 - 11:07 AM
Yeah the barrel is ridiculous. I assembled the whole thing with a length of pipe I had sitting around and never bothered to cut it, but I plan to.
The ball valve shuts off the flow from the co2 tank when the player is not actively firing. I'm not really concerned about injuries caused by the bolt because there's no reason why the sleeve valve should reset while reloading and cause the bolt to close before it's supposed to.
#10
Posted 24 July 2010 - 08:50 PM
Word to the wise: stay away from Sculpey III modeling clay. That stuff is horrible. I regret not buying Fimo this time around.
The trigger is a thin bolt hoseclamped to the sleeve valve. The flat top part of the hose clamp runs along a section of aluminum u-channel to prevent the assembly from rotating. Pretty damn solid.
And two videos demonstrating the action in case my explanation was unclear:
http://s237.photobuc...=0724002124.mp4
http://s237.photobuc...=0724002125.mp4
Excuse the quality... cell phone camera.
#11
Posted 25 July 2010 - 12:05 AM
#12
Posted 25 July 2010 - 11:59 AM
Looks pretty sweet. It is interesting you use stock darts for such a powerful gun. Do you weight the darts any? How is the seal? How much do they vary between types (in tems of seal). Do they fishtail a lot?
I built it to use stock darts because that's what everyone else uses in Humans Vs. Zombies where I play. I'll always have a good supply available. Sonic darts are complete garbage at high velocity. The hole cut in them to make the whistling sound causes drag and pulls them to whatever side the hole is on. Velcro tip darts are better, but tend to fishtail at higher velocities. Without eye protection they're also very dangerous because of the rough tip. Suction cup darts don't really work until the suction cups have been sliced off, but once that's done they're very accurate. I prefer to fire those because of the accuracy and the fact that they fit into the breech more easily because they're shortened.
I have not added weight to any darts yet. The fit between the darts and the barrel is a bit loose, but it kind of has to be since the rubber tips would easily get stuck otherwise. I spray the barrel with a little bit of silicone every now and then to make sure the darts slide nicely.
Unfortunately I can't put together a chart with pressures and their respective velocities because my guage broke, but I'll replace it soon. I was adjusting the regulator last night and found just how wide a range this blaster is capable of. I was able to drop the pressure so low that darts only went about 15 feet, then lower until they failed to leave the barrel, then so low the cylinder did not even extend. At the middle range they we're getting 150 feet easily with little incline. Again, I can't say what pressures produced what result, but I will find out as soon as I can.
Edit: Final Form
Edited by PVC Arsenal 17, 26 July 2010 - 09:01 PM.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users