14 replies to this topic

[ricochet]

After 4 months of designing, building, and re-designing components of the SAS-5, it is finally finished. First off, the name stands for slide action system, and the number 5 is its magazine capacity: nothing too fancy. The design was to incorporate 2 key things: Rate of fire and compact size. The achieved distances are 45-50 feet flat, 65-70 angled, so it isnt obviously going to be used from longer distances.

SAS-5 with magazine removed

Slide pulled back. Notice there is no protruding plunger components like in boltsniper's bs-9 (which,yes, was the inspiration for the SAS-5).

And here would be a look down the sights, sorry not the best picture quality

THis is the SAS-5 fully disassembled making it much easier to maintain than the LDR.

Here is the hole for loading darts, the slit on the left side of the SAS-5 seen in above pictures is for pulling down the follower to perform this method, which is only 1 loading method. The other is removing the magazine and stacking the darts, then putting it back in the magazine well (like shown in the first picture).

Trigger Mech Detail
The following pictures are a look at the sear and the rod that pulls the sear in each stage of firing.


This is it in the locked position that will catch the plunger (picture 1: pull rod picture 2: sear/catch)


This is the sear when the trigger is pulled, the pull rod goes forward and the sear lowers, releasing the plunger.

And here is the plunger, pretty self explanitory


Bolt/Breech Closed

Bolt/Breech open

Here is the magazine, if you look into the slits you can see the wave type of spring, which eliminated the need for any type of a spring guide. I made this spring myself, which is a tedious process.

Here is a picture of the springs loaded on the guide, again self explanitory

I hope you guys will like this, I don't think I left anything out but if I did feel free to ask any questions. There will be a video coming soon as well.

Note: The paint job this time around shouldn't be testing the legal limits, so I hope you appreciate it. The scheme was taken from another persons paint job online, but I don't remember who. Either way, I liked the scheme and it fit the SAS-5 well.

-Ricochet

[Nerfer Dude]

Thats cool, how hard was it to make???

[nostyleguy]

That's an amazing looking homemade. Right up there with BoltSniper's imo.

Can you elaborate a little more on the catch mechanism? Idk if its just the pictures, but the contact rod seems long and angled, but the plunger's catch hole is a circle. I'm likely just misunderstanding.

Great work though, These always make me jealous

[durka durka]

Is there anyway you could provide more detail on exactly how you made your magazine spring? I've been looking for a way to make one, and this seems perfect.

[ricochet]

That's an amazing looking homemade. Right up there with BoltSniper's imo.

Can you elaborate a little more on the catch mechanism? Idk if its just the pictures, but the contact rod seems long and angled, but the plunger's catch hole is a circle. I'm likely just misunderstanding.

Great work though, These always make me jealous

Here is a quick paint diagram I made of the mech. Primed is top picture, firing is bottom picture. I hope it helps.

[ricochet]

Is there anyway you could provide more detail on exactly how you made your magazine spring? I've been looking for a way to make one, and this seems perfect.

Well to start, I use the springs from inside soap/shampoo pumps. Initially they are strong, but when formed into magazine springs, they become the perfect stiffness. Start by stretching the spring into a wire as straight as possible, some pounding on the mostly straightened wire with a hammer will bring it to its straightest shape. Then bend the wire into a zig-zag shape with the overall length slightly smaller than that of the magazine length. Make the "bends" at the start and end of each zig-zag slightly under the width of your magazine, which is most likely just shy of a dart width. You may have to make multiple ones to increase their height. Hot glue them together with hot glue and cardboard (or a different method of your own if you choose) and whalla you have a magazine spring. No heat required!

Note: height is from bottom to top, width is the portion that is equal to dart width, and legth is from left to right: if that all makes sense.

[durka durka]

Thanks, that'll help a lot.

[ricochet]

Here is the youtube video of the SAS-5. Tell me what you think.
SAS-5 on Youtube

[JATDO]

I really like this, I have just one question for you.
How fast can you get all 5 rounds in the clip off? Can you shoot them all without any jams?

[ricochet]

I really like this, I have just one question for you.
How fast can you get all 5 rounds in the clip off? Can you shoot them all without any jams?

Well here is the delema. I recently got new fbr which sticks in the barrel so it has been having problems (any ideas for making it slide in the barrel smoothly/form to the barrel?). I was using my older fbr which worked like a charm with no problems. That being said, using quality fbr I can fire off all five in 3 seconds, but it does take longer if you want more time to aim(obviously).

[TheRedRanger]

That is one impressive build. I did not realize just how clean/ easy to disassemble it was until I watched the video. What tools did you use to fabricate this?

[ricochet]

That is one impressive build. I did not realize just how clean/ easy to disassemble it was until I watched the video. What tools did you use to fabricate this?

The primary tool used was a dremel tool, with a large variety of attatchments.

[hawkshot]

How did you construct the shell?

[ricochet]

How did you construct the shell?

The shell consists of 1.25 inch pvc piping and flat pvc rain gutter covers. The rain gutter was used on the magazine well and sides.

[Zorns Lemma]

How did you construct the shell?

flat pvc rain gutter covers. The rain gutter was used on the magazine well and sides.

Finding nerf construction materials outside of industrial suppliers is the true spirit of homemades!
Those are probably a much cheaper per-unit-area alternative to styrene or pvc sheet for body work.