Wipeout Plunger Draw Extension
#1
Posted 02 May 2010 - 08:49 AM
Here's the gun stock.
Remove these parts with a pair of locking pliers.
You should now have this.
Here are the internals.
You won't need these pieces, so thrown them out or put them in your scrap box.
Gut the internals. You should be left with this.
Take this piece, and remove the rubber with a flat head screwdriver, knife etc.
If you did it correctly you should get this.
Take the same piece and bore it out with a 3/8" drill bit
You should now have this.
Now, cut a 1.25" piece of CPVC.
Goop the CPVC into a coupler.
Now, wrap the CPVC in electrical tape until it fits this piece flush.
Add some craft foam to the back of the piece that we drilled out earlier for padding. Then, smear some JB welb on top of it.
#2
Posted 02 May 2010 - 08:51 AM
Now add the coupler on top of the JB weld, try to make it as centered as possible
Take the plunger and glue the plunger head to it. Then wrap the plunger head with electrical tape until it makes a good seal with the plunger. Put goop into the gas in the plunger head. Then, add some craft foam on top for extra padding.
Now take a piece of FBR and hot glue it to the shell. Then take a small spring and hot glue it to the foam and the catch.
Now for the plunger draw extension. Cut about a 1/4" off these rails.
Then do the same to this part.
You should get something like this.
Now, grab the lever and cut off a part on the bottom.
You should be left with this if you did it correctly.
Now, add epoxy putty to the catch notch so that it catches when the plunger runs into the spring rest. It would be a lot better to solvent weld some PVC there instead of epoxy putty, but I did this a long time ago.
Now, make the plunger tube out of the clear tube that comes with epoxy putty. Cut the new plunger tube 1/4" longer than the original one. This tube is a little bit wider than the original plunger tube. Wrap it in electrical so that the coupler assembly fits it snug. The electrical tape also make the plunger tube fit in the shell better and it makes it more rigid.
Now, assemble the internals and you are finished. Here's the finished product. And yes, that is as far as the lever will go down.
I know someone will ask for ranges, it shoots very similarly to my BBB which has a recon spring added and a 3/4" long PVC coupler behind the spring. It also performs comparably with a pistolsplat. It shoots through cardboard with ease.
Quesions, comments, flames?
#3
Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:49 AM
#4
Posted 02 May 2010 - 12:20 PM
On another note, awesome job. You basically made a weaker version of the pistol splat that may be easier to find for some into an equal.
I would much perfer a game that's free of KY. I like it rough. Right, Vacc?
"She went all Ghetto Fab on you."
#5
Posted 02 May 2010 - 01:08 PM
Solved the Rubik's Cube in 46 seconds
"Nobody understands quantum mechanics" - Richard Feynman
#6
Posted 02 May 2010 - 01:42 PM
Thats awesome. What is blocking the priming bar from traveling all the way down?
The new plunger tube.
#7
Posted 02 May 2010 - 04:03 PM
#8
Posted 02 May 2010 - 04:39 PM
You just happened to find a tube that fit the plunger head perfectly? Very lucky. Also impressed you got the plunger cap off the plunger tube so cleanly.
The epoxy putty tube is a little bit bigger than the original plunger tube, but it's an easy fix with a bit of e-tape. Do you mean the rubber piece on the plunger cap, or the the plastic rings on the shell?
#9
Posted 02 May 2010 - 09:22 PM
yeah I'm that guy who made that cool thing with the cool paint.
#10
Posted 03 May 2010 - 03:45 PM
A few flaws that may arise later, but I like this a lot. I'm surprised no one has tried putting homemade plunger tubes and plunger heads in these things.
I actually made this thing about a year ago and the only problem it had was that the epoxy putty on the catch notch would break, next time I'll use PVC and solvent weld. I am gonna try making a new plunger head and plunger tube once I get another one of these.
#11
Posted 03 May 2010 - 04:14 PM
I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.
#12
Posted 03 May 2010 - 04:51 PM
A few flaws that may arise later, but I like this a lot. I'm surprised no one has tried putting homemade plunger tubes and plunger heads in these things.
What, you mean like this?
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?
#13
Posted 03 May 2010 - 06:02 PM
Cool idea. Splats have a pretty short stroke to begin with, so every little bit counts.
I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.
I've tried flaring the plunger head before but the seal didn't last too long. My method also eliminates deadspace in the plunger head and I have a great seal.
#14
Posted 04 May 2010 - 12:48 AM
Cool idea. Splats have a pretty short stroke to begin with, so every little bit counts.
I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.
He's not using the stock plunger tube.
#15
Posted 04 May 2010 - 08:11 AM
Cool idea. Splats have a pretty short stroke to begin with, so every little bit counts.
I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.
He's not using the stock plunger tube.
Doesn't really matter. E-tape will work for a while, but only until the adhesive begins to give way, and then it will degrade very quickly.
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?
#16
Posted 04 May 2010 - 09:34 PM
Cool idea. Splats have a pretty short stroke to begin with, so every little bit counts.
I can't say I agree with wrapping etape around the plunger head. If you flare them a bit the first time you open them, and dab some lube on it, it will get a perfect seal. I feel that your method only hurts performance.
He's not using the stock plunger tube.
Doesn't really matter. E-tape will work for a while, but only until the adhesive begins to give way, and then it will degrade very quickly.
I added suger glue underneath the e-tape. There haven't been any problems.
#17
Posted 16 May 2010 - 09:52 AM
Materials:
1" OD 3/8" ID rubber washer
3/4" OD 1/8" ID washers
#6-32 bolt 3/4" long
#6-32 nut
#8-32 washer
First, cut the nub on the plunger.
Then drill it.
Tap it with a #6-32 tapping bit.
Assemble your plunger head. Put the #8-32 washer inside the rubber washer. Then sandwich the rubber washer between the 2 3/4" washers.
Put the new plunger head on the plunger and thread the #6-32 bolt onto the plunger.
Add a #6-32 nut on the bolt for added strength.
Now all you have to do is put the new finished plunger rod into the original plunger tube. The new plunger head gives about 3/16" added travel and it improves the seal greatly. I also added a 1/4" PEX spacer behind the spring. This mod gives about the same added volume as my original mod, but it is also a lot stronger and easier. All credit of the plunger head goes to venom213.
#18
Posted 16 May 2010 - 06:25 PM
What size bit?Then drill it.
Are you talking about if you did this mod alone, or if done in conjunction with your extended draw mod?The new plunger head gives about 3/16" added travel and it improves the seal greatly. I also added a 1/4" PEX spacer behind the spring. This mod gives about the same added volume as my original mod, but it is also a lot stronger and easier.
#19
Posted 16 May 2010 - 08:46 PM
Nice.
What size bit?Then drill it.
Are you talking about if you did this mod alone, or if done in conjunction with your extended draw mod?The new plunger head gives about 3/16" added travel and it improves the seal greatly. I also added a 1/4" PEX spacer behind the spring. This mod gives about the same added volume as my original mod, but it is also a lot stronger and easier.
I don't know the size of the bit, but I can check, it came with my tapping bit and it's slightly smaller in diameter. I was talking about if you did the mod alone. If you had the homemade plunger head with the plunger draw extension you would get 1/2" added volume, but that would be complete overkill, it shoots ridiculous as is.
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