10 replies to this topic

[SonReeceSonJensen]

I love the double shot. Many have cut theirs down and from end to end but here is a basic walkthrough on it as well some tips I have not seen mentioned to optimize performance and add longevity if you are damned determined to use this as a primary…like me.


Here is the basic progression. I have two stubby dubby projects’ pictures in here, but the steps are all for the same end.


Here is everything that is immediately unnecessary.


Some internal pics to keep your springs straight.

SHELL CUTTING GUIDE SECTION







PLUNGER TUBE WORK SECTION


Pull the stock shell plate off and saw those tubes right down to the plunger tube.


The air ports can be drilled out for increased airflow.


MASSIVE leaks from this area on both sides. I’m not up for actually cutting the plungers open to swap springs or improve plunger head seal but THIS is a great and easy way to improve performance. I used Goop, there is a pic later where you can see what I mean.

NO POST, more in 60 seconds.

[SonReeceSonJensen]

RE-BARRELING GUIDE SECTION


I had originally used ½” cpvc coups epoxied on but after one solid day of use the force of repeatedly wrenching the barrels off to reload and the awkward closeness of them due to the design ripped them right off.


Solution part 1: I used cut-down ½ PVC male type screw-in coups as they had more surface area to epoxy to the plunger tubes. Also, notice the Goop to fill in the leaks.


Solution part 2: I made these T’s so I could easily remove the barrels for reloading without putting damaging pressure on the epoxied areas.


Added a bolt here, not entirely necessary but I think it helps the integrity of the shell.


BAM! New PJ for the stylin!


AND profilin!

NOTES AND STATS
• Ranges: I used this as a primary (I know, I’m working on better primaries as we speak) in half the rounds at the March MN war with 10+ peoples’ differently made slug darts and got anywhere from 40’ up to 60’ flat.
• Spread: surprisingly most of my hits on opponents I hit with both darts as there is very little spread.
• In-Line clips: In NO way do they work with the DS. I tried 2-shot in-lines and it was abysmal. Could you have told me that? Maybe. I can say with 100% certainty? Absolutely. This is why I threw some ½” cpvc coups in the ½” pcv’s like in the final pics.

Now get cuttin'!

[ficksterkid]

Great job. Hopefully I will see this at scano?

[SonReeceSonJensen]

Great job. Hopefully I will see this at scano?

Ooooooh yes

Two other points
• I have done this mod twice and both times I have lost the ability to fire shots one at a time with any consistency. I think this is because the plunger tube is actually loose in the shell (hence the bungee) and this creates complications.
• These are like 2.5" barrels, I have tried with up to 6" but notice no difference in range.

[princexbuster]

Tips: I have a DS that shoots around 70 feet mounted to the bottom of my PAS.
- Just use the cpvc couples and cut them in half to reduse dead space, use super glue. my couplers were hot glues very lightly then they broke off so I put some gorilla glue on and then the glue seeps out spit on it and it makes a crazy strong bond.
- Make sure you arn't loseing your trigger spring, that could be your staged trigger problem
- I have also been reminded of dart fit. that could be another factor in your range problem.
- They can use inline clips and on mine they shoot around 40(more like 50+) with a 2 shot and 30s with a four. Are you useing copper or pvc for youe inlines?

I'm not trying to be a douche, I'm just trying to help a brother out.

Edited by princexbuster, 28 April 2010 - 08:44 PM.

[Dude13]

Great job. Hopefully I will see this at scano?

SCANO? Don't you mean SPANO. SCANO is a Canadian war held in Toronto. SPANO is held in Minnesota.


Nice mod by the way. If you manage to open up the plunger tubes without totaling the internals be sure to post about it.

Edited by Dude13, 28 April 2010 - 05:30 PM.

[ficksterkid]

Great job. Hopefully I will see this at scano?

SCANO? Don't you mean SPANO. SCANO is a Canadian war held in Toronto. SPANO is held in Minnesota.

Thanks for the correction.

Edited by ficksterkid, 29 April 2010 - 07:35 AM.

[Hippopotamus]

You make this look like a cake walk! I shouldn't have murdered my DS, luckily they've got em at my walgreens. Great work!

[Broderick]

I've got a DS and some time. Maybe I'll give this a shot.
Nice write-up, very detailed and easy to follow.

[SonReeceSonJensen]

Prince
• No douchery detected, my DS brutha. I have little luck cutting full coups in half evenly, what I have on my other one is end caps with large holes drilled in them. Dead space elimination would for sure help.
• My in-lines are Sch 80 PVC to CPVC. Might be a construction issue, possibly. PM with your formula…and a pic of that PAS/DS (sounds money).
• All the springs are there, I’m 100% certain if I glued the plunger tubes in place (with this mod they are basically just sitting in there) I would get it back. That and I am twitchy as hell on the battle field so it might just be operator error, I have fired them separate if I employ a bit of finesse in the trigger pull.

Dude13 – Now that I have one that actually works I may hack up the other I have. I’m not sure a spring replacement is necessary cuz the stock one is pretty hefty, but for SURE the seal could be better.

Hippo – Wow, that is a rather high compliment. Thank you. I try to make easy enough to just look at the pics and get the general idea. I HIGHLY recommend taking a whack at this mod.

Brod – Detailed and ease to follow…quite elusive, thanks

[VelveetaAvenger]

Prince
• No douchery detected, my DS brutha. I have little luck cutting full coups in half evenly, what I have on my other one is end caps with large holes drilled in them. Dead space elimination would for sure help.

I like to use cpvc bushings. They're basically half-couplers already, so you don't have to cut or drill anything.


I've also had the trigger spring problem, and it does make it tough to separate the shots. Anyways, hopefully you get it worked out.