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Inverse Plunger Tube Reinforcement

Adding power? Save your blasters PT!

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#1 NerfRogue83

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:18 PM

Removed

Edited by NerfRogue83, 04 August 2010 - 11:23 PM.

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#2 MindWarrior

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:26 PM

Just when I destroy my recon. Very nice, and it's cheaper than an aluminum plunger tube. What range are you getting on your beefed up deploy?
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#3 Airsoftguy777

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:27 PM

A few weeks ago I did something similar with a nickel on a recon plunger. Except I used epoxy putty and lots of super glue.
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#4 moosa

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:29 PM

That sounds like a mod that's asking to get screwed up and ruin your blaster. Also, I'm not entirely convinced that epoxying a metal washer on the end of the plunger tube will do all that much to prevent the plastic it's adhered to from breaking under the force. I suspect there may be better ways.

I demand that you fire your blaster 100 times and then report back to us. ;)
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Yes.

#5 ficksterkid

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:29 PM

If I ever try to mod a recon again, I will definatly do this. My last two broke there. Nice work!
-ficksterkid
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#6 NerfRogue83

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:33 PM

That sounds like a mod that's asking to get screwed up and ruin your blaster. Also, I'm not entirely convinced that epoxying a metal washer on the end of the plunger tube will do all that much to prevent the plastic it's adhered to from breaking under the force. I suspect there may be better ways.

I demand that you fire your blaster 100 times and then report back to us. ;)


1. You will demand nothing of me
2. The washer is slightly larger in diameter than that of the end of the bolt---which is what makes the hole in the tube. By securing the washer, the bolt now strikes a metal rest---instead of just plastic. This, coupled with the increased padding of the thick O-ring works very well I assure you.
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#7 iknowmy3tables

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:06 PM

I also fail to see why a harder surface on the surface that gets hit will reduce the impact.
the washer and jbweld seam to just be in contact with the area that breaks off, but the o-ring addition makes sense, and I second that adding this "stuff" to the back of the plunger does have a high risk of ruining the blaster,
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#8 NerfRogue83

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:13 PM

I also fail to see why a harder surface on the surface that gets hit will reduce the impact.


The washer does NOTHING to reduce the force of the impact.......it simply spreads the force out over a larger surface area that in fact does extend to the sides of the PT.

I don't believe I ever deemed this the " Be all, end all" reinforcement method......just an idea that is working for me. Thank you all for the feedback though.
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#9 utahnerf

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:18 PM

I also fail to see why a harder surface on the surface that gets hit will reduce the impact.


The hard surface is meant to reinforce the plunger tube, and it gets hit with the o-ring, so therefore it should do the opposite of destroying the blaster. Before these additions, it was plastic on plastic, so if you modified your gun to make it more powerful the plastic could very possibly break or deform while you are using it. It is always a better idea to pad the plunger.
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#10 NerfRogue83

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:25 PM

I second that adding this "stuff" to the back of the plunger does have a high risk of ruining the blaster,


I doubt that.

I had one into which I did a comparable mod, pouring in a thin liquid epoxy, using a needle to ensure it touched only at the bottom. Also using a fixture clamped to my work table to hold it perfectly upright. I filled it maybe 3/16ths of an inch deep. Once it cured, I glued a craft foam disc to the surface of the epoxy. That Recon survived lots of newbies as an office loaner for a year or more, until it somehow got misplaced.

Rogue's way is simpler to do and much more practical for others to copy.

Although it could be pointed out that any additional weight in the moving plunger tube should make it fire more slowly, as long as you've got the right dart fit with your barrels, plunger timing is just not that critical.


Thanks Bob.....I too have had success so far with this. If people doubt---they should try it.
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#11 archangel24

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:45 PM

Sweet job I will do this if i ever get a deploy or longstrike. One question, will this work for the raider?
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#12 NerfRogue83

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:46 PM

Sweet job I will do this if i ever get a deploy or longstrike. One question, will this work for the raider?


I don't see why not......the plunger tube is of the inverse variety......
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#13 moosa

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 09:51 PM

I second that adding this "stuff" to the back of the plunger does have a high risk of ruining the blaster,


I doubt that.

...

It's not a risk of ruining the blaster once you have it in place, its a risk of ruining the blaster while attempting to put it into place. JB Weld is very messy, very sticky, goopy stuff. I'm somewhat impressed that NerfRogue was able to apply it so cleanly. He's shown that it is possible with patience and careful technique, but I'm not sure if I would recommend this to just anyone.

NerfRogue, I'm glad you understood the point I was trying to make about it maybe not helping that much. It's just the sort of thing that a lot of people would misunderstand. It would increase the surface area, although my impression is that it wouldn't be that much. If it's enough though then it's enough. It would be nice to hear about how well it holds up over time, just as a final confirmation.

In any case, well done.
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Yes.

#14 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 02:42 AM

Using neoprene sheet (http://www.mcmaster.com/#9455k121/) to add impact absorption to the back of your bolt pretty much negates the need for all that metal washer/JBweld mess, of which the actual utility is dubious as though the impact impulse is distributed better along the back, the force from said impulse is higher due to a harder material, and said force is still distributed along a surface which is attached to the plunger tube by the same weak seam. The best that could be said is that maybe pressing down on the washer will expand the JBWeld to the edges where it will actually add retaining force onto that seam, but using a disc would be much better for this purpose.
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#15 iknowmy3tables

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 11:50 AM

when my recon broke the entire back came off, about where the doted line in this diagram is
Posted Image
is it different for the rest of you?

if this is the same for the rest for you, then the force being distributed along a larger area doesn't matter since it's still applied to the same part that breaks off at the same rate. Therefore the force at the weak points is still the same

Edited by iknowmy3tables, 20 April 2010 - 11:52 AM.

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#16 Draconis

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 01:54 PM

Short of replacing the tubes, I do not see a truly effective way of reinforcing the reverse plungers. Padding is about the only viable method of extending the life of them. And hard rubber o-rings are NOT going to soften the blow by any appreciable amount. Foam us the only real material to use.
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#17 iknowmy3tables

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 02:30 PM

a thick o-ring is better than nothing, however most foams will deform when left compressed for prolonged periods of time, for example you might notice that if you have a 1/2" cpvc barrel that is way too tight on your darts you can force the darts in and leave them in there for over 24 hours and the darts will fit much better,
I've put a foam bumpers on my raider before but when I reopened it the bumpers had deformed to become paper thin.

for bumpers you'll want to find the softest rubber to use, however I don't have any soft rubbers so I have a strange metal spring and foam combination where my spring bumper is suppose to push the plunger open just enough to prevent severe deformation in the foam.

Edited by iknowmy3tables, 20 April 2010 - 02:32 PM.

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#18 NerfRogue83

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 03:09 PM

Short of replacing the tubes, I do not see a truly effective way of reinforcing the reverse plungers. Padding is about the only viable method of extending the life of them. And hard rubber o-rings are NOT going to soften the blow by any appreciable amount. Foam us the only real material to use.


Update:

Someone requested an update upon testing so,.......I emptied my Stef-Drum 3 times last night. I then disassembled my blaster to examine the PT and found no white "stress marks" on the PT. Whats more--I examined the O-ring on the end of the bolt that serves as the padding.......it remained in good condition, not squished like foam gets after extended use.

Conclusion?

This works for me....for now. There will inevitably be a better method discovered and posted, but until then--this solution allows me to add the power I want to my Deploy without worrying if the PT will fly apart with each shot. I did this, now you do it better.......after all, thats what makes modding great. Expand and improvise.
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#19 moosa

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Posted 22 April 2010 - 11:02 AM

Thanks for the testing/update NerfRogue. :) It's obviously doing something for you.
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