12 replies to this topic

[Blue]

First you have to take the gun apart, not hard at all. Pull out the barrel and cut down the seam with a fine tooth saw. Once that's open, sand out both sides until 17/32 brass can slide through. The AR will fall out after sanding too. I chose not to open up that airflow hole, not sure if that was a good idea or not.


Now, I messed up on this part, but I learned from my mistakes. You can follow the pictures, they'll help, but the breach is simple. Like, REALLY simple. A single piece of brass needs to be super glued into the half of the barrel with the O-ring. Slide on the other part, and match it up to the cut you made earlier. Super glue that seam. Now, just take out your dremel and cut off all the stuff that is not on the orange of the breach. Make sure you smooth out all the cuts with a small fine file or your darts will be eaten.

Here is the brass already cut in the back part.



Before:


After:


And here is where I messed up. I put super glue on the brass and pushed it in the barrel. It cured before I could get it adjusted...


So I cut off half of the barrel and started over.


I sanded down the stock nubs like someone else did before, the stock can be easily removed now.


And I sanded part of the jam door like I saw in an auction on ebay:


I just removed these pieces, so now you can un-cock your gun when it's pulled back to avoid a dry fire. Not sure what else that did.


And here it is finished:

[Airsoftguy777]

What are the ranges?

[Blue]

What are the ranges?

Better than stock. It shoots streamlines, so getting ranges from that is not really going to work.

I forgot to mention that I put some electrical tape under the O-ring to help a bit, and that if you want to do that spring compresion mod, a NF plunger tube fits perfectly over the plunger and stops the spring.

[Airsoftguy777]

What are the ranges?

Better than stock. It shoots streamlines, so getting ranges from that is not really going to work.

I forgot to mention that I put some electrical tape under the O-ring to help a bit, and that if you want to do that spring compresion mod, a NF plunger tube fits perfectly over the plunger and stops the spring.

I find 3/4 thinwall to work best.

[Aquinas]

I've got to say, nice brass work! Can't wait to see it in action soon.

Hope you didn't cut your finger this go round, haha.

Edited by Aquinas, 02 April 2010 - 11:30 PM.

[HOTH]

Nice. Looks easier than I expected.

[Hi Yah]

Good job. But, what is the purpose of sanding the jam door?

[Blue]

Good job. But, what is the purpose of sanding the jam door?

Now you can open the door when the breach is closed.

[meatballica]

SO using this method have you lost any streamlines just by having them "shaved" to death?

[Blue]

SO using this method have you lost any streamlines just by having them "shaved" to death?

Before I sanded the brass the darts were shaved a bit, afterwards I had no troubles with it at all.

[grafitibbbow]

I just posted my Longstrike modd last night. It tells how to do a removable powerstock and more in depth lock removal but I think i am trying this modd today because this is a great brass modd.

Edited by grafitibbbow, 10 August 2010 - 10:53 AM.

[grafitibbbow]

I just posted my Longstrike modd last night. It tells how to do a removable powerstock and more in depth lock removal but I think i am trying this modd today because this is a great brass modd.

HELP I screwed up the barrel. It cracked. Any suggestions.

[ExAlpha]

So all I gotta do is drill the air restrictor out, cut the brass pipe to a certain length, stick the pipe into the barrel, and cut the pipe according to the orange plastic of the breech?

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

Edited by Langley, 12 November 2012 - 02:10 PM.
Thread Necro. Over two years since someone posted in this thread.