Pull Back Recon
#1
Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:07 AM
Stuff you will need.
1/2 CPVC
1/2 PVC
Nerf recon.....
bbb plunger tube
1/2 CPVC coupler
Coat hanger of other metal rod
Plexi glass
A dremmel
Finger nail File
Sand paper
Tech target plunger rod (or similar size)
Plunger head parts (2 fender washers, 1 neoprene washer, 2 screws)
Springs
Glue of choice (needs to be strong)
First unscrew the blaster and then look at your internals they should look like this.
The only internals for this blaster that are actually going back in are the muzzle piece and the trigger Modified of curse.
You will also need this piece and the catch. (This will be explained later.)
First of all we will make room for the bbb plunger tube and “cone” piece
You will start with this
Make room for the plunger tube by dremeling away the ridges when you’re done it should look something like this.
Disregard the plunger tube this is the only picture I could find of this.
You will need a good length of CPVC. First to get the plunger head on the CPVC. I cut the head off an old tech target plunger rod put it in the CPVC and then ran a screw threw it and the cpvc then cut off the excess part of the screw then added the plunger head not sure of the actual sizes.
For the catch I took PVC and sanded the inside diameter of it till it slipped tightly over the CPVC and super glued it in place then form the slanted side for the catch to slide over. IMPORTANT: make sure that the slant is on the right side. As you can tell this blaster is going to have a similar priming rod to the longshot.
Apply your springs in this case they are the stock spring and a crossbow spring NOTE: for the crossbow spring to work you need to flex out the last couple coils of the spring so it doesn’t slip through the hole.
On to the catch the trickiest part for this I hot glued the catch on to the plexi glass and the traced around it with a sharpie then took off the catch. After this I roughly cut it out the catch and proceeded to sand it with a dremel till I got just past the edge of the sharpie mark and the catch fit in the shell. Then I drilled a hole kind of low and then slowly made my way up till it primed and fired.
Now set all that aside
Now to work with the plunger tube
Mod the bbb “cone” piece how you like. I dremeled till the coupler could just barley squeeze in to the gap and then glued it in.
Next you need to dremmel till you can fit the catch of the blaster threw this hole smoothly.
Before
After
Next take your muzzle piece and dremmel it till it can fit you coupler and it looks like mine.
One moment more to come Please do not post now.
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#2
Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:10 AM
Now assemble your plunger rod and tube with the springs and everything in it.
Place it in to your blaster.
Now get this piece and cut off the armed part and sand till its flush. then like we did with the catch glue the end to the plexi glass and the trace it then remove it and cut it don’t forget to make room for the screw holes. this part is made to lineup the plunger rod with the catch to make it prime. So make your hole in the center close to the same O.D. as the CPVC you’re using. When you’re done it will look like this.
This is it closed up with the stock Attached first to make the slide you need to cut down the screw hole as shown in this picture and the one in the actual “slide”.
You will need to dermal in the ridges on the slide so it will slide freely and cut the hole for the CPVC. Next drill the hole for the small metal rod to go through the slide.
Also you will need to cut the “Guide” for the metal bar.
The end product is this. NO ranges as of now because I have been really busy with school lately.
This write up was made after I actually built the blaster I just compared the mudded parts to the stock parts for anyone who needs help understanding any part post here or send me a pm.
Same goes for revisions I guarantee I made some grammatical errors. I have proof read it several times but it’s almost 12 o’clock and I need some rest.
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#3
Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:28 AM
Solved the Rubik's Cube in 46 seconds
"Nobody understands quantum mechanics" - Richard Feynman
#5
Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:58 AM
Have a sizzlin' day,
AJ
#6
Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:01 AM
He coupler'ed the recon.So, where is the breech? In those pictures, I'm not seeing anywhere for the dart to enter the barrel. Maybe I'm blind?
Have a sizzlin' day,
AJ
#7
Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:15 AM
This is the NerfHaven profile of Northeast Designs. For more info visit https://www.facebook...p8OwIso&fref=nf
Old school Nerf engineer since 2008
#8
Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:42 AM
#9
Posted 11 March 2010 - 08:05 AM
#10
Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:10 PM
Nice. but why a bbb plunger tube? I would go for some pvc of similar size (1 inch thinwall)
I would recognize that plunger tube anywhere. Why would you kill a bbb? Unless, you over hauled the bbb, then that would be okay. Didn't someone put this in the paint job thread?
I started this mod with the intention of that but then the PVC pipe I had was not thin wall. It was thick so till I got the PVC I decided to do this but yes that was my original intention. As for the bbb I already overhauled it one time and then decided that I would replace the plunger tube later. So now when I go to get the plunger tube for the recon I will also get one for the bbb. And yes I posted this in the modification paintjob thread
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#11
Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:41 PM
Perfect work! You can only expect the best from kentucky nerfers
I really have to agree with ya there.
#12
Posted 11 March 2010 - 07:38 PM
#13
Posted 11 March 2010 - 07:59 PM
I love junkbin blasters, their so funny but if done well they can preform great for a crazy low price. That's always cool. Good work.
#14
Posted 11 March 2010 - 09:37 PM
Is it really necessary for the word S-N-I-P-E-R to auto-correct to "loser"? I was going to use it to describe the look of the longstrike, and the way the ranges could be made to match. That's just annoying and unnecessary, though I can understand why it was done.
Edited by sllewgh, 11 March 2010 - 09:42 PM.
#15
Posted 12 March 2010 - 01:58 AM
This could probably be done to the longstrike as effectively, if not better. Putting a BBB in there could give it the longer ranges to match its looks. I wasn't going to buy one, but that seems an appealing prospect...
Is it really necessary for the word S-N-I-P-E-R to auto-correct to "loser"? I was going to use it to describe the look of the longstrike, and the way the ranges could be made to match. That's just annoying and unnecessary, though I can understand why it was done.
Because we are using TOY guns that shoot FOAM darts, you cant expect to line up any shot threw a
10x magnified scope and be a so called S-N-I-P-E-R with toy guns. It just wont happen.
Good job and very nice mod. I love how clean it is and I cant wait for the ranges.
I love how you made the "slide".
I AM EXITED!
Edited by mitch s95, 12 March 2010 - 01:59 AM.
#16
Posted 12 March 2010 - 11:06 AM
Is it really necessary for the word S-N-I-P-E-R to auto-correct to "loser"?
Yes it is. Because if you using words like that then you are taking nerfing to seriously.
#17
Posted 12 March 2010 - 02:17 PM
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
#18
Posted 13 March 2010 - 12:57 AM
Excuse me? No offense, but no. Absolutely not. Plexiglass is a fantastically strong material. Small pieces won't budge, large pieces will bend, but it's almost impossible to break. Throw a brick at a plexiglass window, and it'll bounce back at you.Impressive, though I question the use of plexiglass for a replacement catch. It is probably weaker than the stock ABS one...
ABS, in the grand scheme of things, is fairly weak. for a toy, it's fine. start suping it up, and it won't be fine for long.
Have a sizzlin' day,
AJ
#19
Posted 13 March 2010 - 01:00 AM
#20
Posted 13 March 2010 - 01:32 AM
To tell you the truth, it's completely possible. I really don't know my materials as well as I should.Plexiglass aka acrylic is some of the most brittle stuff around. Aj you are prob thinking of polycarbonate.
#21
Posted 13 March 2010 - 04:52 AM
Excuse me? No offense, but no. Absolutely not. Plexiglass is a fantastically strong material. Small pieces won't budge, large pieces will bend, but it's almost impossible to break. Throw a brick at a plexiglass window, and it'll bounce back at you.Impressive, though I question the use of plexiglass for a replacement catch. It is probably weaker than the stock ABS one...
ABS, in the grand scheme of things, is fairly weak. for a toy, it's fine. start suping it up, and it won't be fine for long.
Have a sizzlin' day,
AJ
It'd be more impressive when you patronize someone if you're actually correct.
Acrylic is used for art and as a substitute for glass. I it super soft (scratchable) as opposed to ABS, and has zero impact strength compared to ABS.
As ggk points out, you're probably thinking of polycarbonate. It is used in hurricane proofing.
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
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