Bah, Can't Put Air Tanks Back Together.
#1
Posted 07 March 2010 - 09:58 PM
Basically I have four Airtech 2000s, a Supermaxx 5000, and a Secret Shot 2 with broken air tanks. I tried super glueing them together and covering the seam with goop when I originally sliced them open, but that didn't work so well obviously or I wouldn't be making this thread. I tried 10 minute epoxy just a few minutes ago, but it won't bond with the tank. It just makes a shell around it, and when I pump up the tank, it comes apart, and I'm left with a neat ring of Epoxy and a broken tank.
Is there anything else I can try? How do you guys fix air tanks? The only solution I've found searching on here was my own goop + super glue idea, then another guy used super glue + electrical tape (how the hell that worked I will never know). JB Weld? PVC Cement? I'm not too sure about solvent welds because I have never tried them and there is a slight gap between each tank half due to my using a hacksaw on them.
#2
Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:03 PM
PS I know how you feel with the whole "people just don't listen about blaster care," at my last church war 2 of my 3 war-worthy guns broke, and the foam started coming off of my swords because they were hitting walls half the time. Just don't lend out guns you don't want broken.
#3
Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:04 PM
Tony Stark: Absolutely ridiculous. I don't paint.
#4
Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:08 PM
The tanks didn't just spontaneously break, I cut them open to superglue the rubber gaskets to their posts, as I was tired of them popping off all the time... so I have to be able to completely bond two halves together, to six different tanks.
#5
Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:19 PM
EDIT: So, they are split down that seam down the middle? For the rubber pin part, all you have to do is knock the rubber completely off with a toothpick or something, slather goop on the metal pin, and then shake it around until the rubber comes back into position. Press the pin up as hard as you can to pop the rubber back on the post, and then the goop will take care of the rest.
Edited by Blue, 07 March 2010 - 10:24 PM.
#6
Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:22 PM
Instead of just sitting on top of the two pieces like most glues, cement will melt them together. It all depends on how there broken.
[18:17] <+Nerfer> pls dont call me that
[18:18] * Nerfer is now known as Guest17574
[18:18] <+Lucian151> Woah its Beefy Theify
[18:19] <+Guest17574> STOP CALLING ME THAT IM NOT FAT
[18:19] <+Guest17574> pls
#7
Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:46 PM
Edited by nerfer9, 07 March 2010 - 10:46 PM.
#8
Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:14 AM
Dumb, I know, but I thought it'd be easier to cut the tank open and glue the gaskets onto their posts instead of opening up the guns and fishing them out every time they popped off. All mine were really loose, even 3-4 pumps they flew off all the time, and it was annoying trying to put them back in place with needlenose pliers. I never thought it would be so hard to get the air tank to stay together though.
The SM5K I had to cut open because the stopper came off the hook, and the SS2 because the previous owner drilled out the AR sloppily and it came unattached and leaked.
#9
Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:17 AM
Literally I cut them in half...
Dumb, I know, but I thought it'd be easier to cut the tank open and glue the gaskets onto their posts instead of opening up the guns and fishing them out every time they popped off. All mine were really loose, even 3-4 pumps they flew off all the time, and it was annoying trying to put them back in place with needlenose pliers. I never thought it would be so hard to get the air tank to stay together though.
The SM5K I had to cut open because the stopper came off the hook, and the SS2 because the previous owner drilled out the AR sloppily and it came unattached and leaked.
Do what Bob recommends, he knows what he is doing. I have seen the results on a Sm500 tank and if anything the seam that was cut is now the strongest part of the tank.
#10
Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:22 AM
#11
Posted 08 March 2010 - 10:42 AM
Solvent weld should work here. Clam it down when it's drying. You can also put a layer of goop if it isn't air tight after the solvent weld.
Okay, because kid have a tendency to not listen to the people who know what they're talking about, I want you to at least try this before this thread goes any further. Ryan usually has a good idea what he's talking about.
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