Plunger-rod-less Snap
#1
Posted 15 February 2010 - 04:33 PM
What you'll need:
-flexible, load bearing cord (I just went into the cord/wire/chain section of Ace and got the thinnest wire, which I believe was wound steel and had a max load of 97 pounds, more than enough for a plusbow spring)
-2 ferrules that fit the wire
-a SNAP
-some sort of priming handle, I used a 1/2" CPVC tee
-it helps to use a hollow pistol grip from an airsoft/paintball gun, it helps for nesting the key retention thingy.
-one of those key winders, I used a really overpriced ace brand one because that's all they had, it was like 12 bucks... at least its really strong.
There are a couple problems/precautions-to-be-taken that Split has noted about the priming system. One is the small plunger rod turning. This affects a +bow/pistol set-up, but doesn't matter at all for a SNAP. The second is that the spring needs to be locked into place where it touches the spring rest and the plunger. I'm not quite sure how Split did this with the +pistol, but the majority of this write-up covers that with a SNAP.
First let's get an over-view of the internals. I'll explain the individual parts later.
Now let's work on the spring rest. Inside of the hex plug I nested and glued it a DTB plunger tube, which fits around the [k26] spring very nicely and not too tightly. I know for a fact that a firefly plunger tube will work for this as well. The end I held up to a flame and bent outwards. This reduces the risk of the spring catching on the edges while it's getting compressed.
Now to the other end - the plunger. The plunger head is pretty much standard and has several inches of CPVC sticking out the back, which the [k26] fits nicely over. The wire goes through the CPVC and is looped at the end with the ferrule. The loop goes around a screw that is visible in one of the pictures. Make sure to grind the screw head and end down so they are flush with the plunger - you don't want it catching on the catch or scratching up the plunger tube.
The priming handle is pretty easy. Just create another loop with the other ferrule like before and loop it around a screw running through the CPVC handle.
Installing the key winder should be pretty straightforward. Just run it through the handle if it's hollow. If not, figure something else out. The last step is bolting on a piece of CPVC to help guide the chain. I just filled it with hot glue and then drilled through.
Here's what it looks like primed.
And here she is in all her glory.
What do ya guys think?
#2
Posted 15 February 2010 - 04:43 PM
#3
Posted 15 February 2010 - 08:26 PM
But actually, I still can't get over how cool this system is. It does wonders for me because I can't see well out of my right eye but I'm still right-handed. In other words, stocks, unless position low (think tommy gun), are a no-no for me.
#4
Posted 15 February 2010 - 09:01 PM
Tony Stark: Absolutely ridiculous. I don't paint.
#5
Posted 15 February 2010 - 09:39 PM
Sure, man. If you run into any problems post them here, as I may have left something unclear, and everyone could benefit from clarification.Thanks for this, I can't wait to start on it.
#6
Posted 15 February 2010 - 10:03 PM
So then in half a year someone else can begin to understand how it works? Good Plan, show us all once again how much smarter you are.Others are catching up to me! I must begin unveiling some of my new projects!
Seriously Split, you are like ridiculous when it comes to foam weaponry.
And Bull, that is one cool gun. The handle is that of an airsoft MP5 type weapon right? I happen to have the handles of a 1911, p99, and MP5 all ripe for using on a Nerf homemade.
Venom: Haven't we all?
#7
Posted 15 February 2010 - 10:16 PM
#8
Posted 15 February 2010 - 10:36 PM
#9
Posted 15 February 2010 - 10:41 PM
True True, plus, for pistols, you can take the clip and hide extra darts, or just keep it there for the lulzYep, a terrible LPEG MP5. My friends sister broke it, and I gutted it back before I was into nerf. Sooooo glad I kept the parts; the handle, sights, and spring have been a godsend. The handles of airsft/paintball guns make snaps exponentially more comfortable.
Venom: Haven't we all?
#10
Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:04 AM
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>
#11
Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:48 AM
#12
Posted 16 February 2010 - 06:08 PM
The key winder negates any whipping.
That is not completely true. The key winder isolates the snapping motion of the wire to the area around the back of the plunger rod. This while much safer than flying priming handle, can still be dangerous if something is in that area to catch.
The safest way to use a wire plunger is to enclose it in something, like how the priming mechanism is enclosed in the SNAP-4.
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
#13
Posted 16 February 2010 - 08:40 PM
#14
Posted 16 February 2010 - 08:44 PM
#15
Posted 17 February 2010 - 08:50 AM
#16
Posted 17 February 2010 - 04:03 PM
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