26 replies to this topic

[Split]

The Lever Action Blaster:


Highlights:
Range goal: 100 feet
Materials cost for one: $60.87
Materials cost for one, with left-overs from a +bow: $33.00
Materials for the second: $5.46
Size: 11” long body

*All prices are not guaranteed. The material list has changed some, and I will revisit the prices soon.

The plunger volume was determined by taking the ratio of the Maxshot’s plunger volume to that of the Crossbow’s, and applying it to the +bow. Therefore, the LAB’s plunger tube volume is proportionate to a homemade version of the Maxshot.

The entire project was meant to be completely customizable. The rod on top for the catch can be machined however you like, the handles can be changed out, and the lever design can be changed as you see fit. All of the edges of the polycarbonate are open to be extruded or changed however you wish!

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Main Project Aim: An open source, customizable, downward-lever-action homemade blaster, capable reaching ranges equal to or exceeding 100 feet flat.

Secondary Project Aims: To make the blaster as small as possible, and to make manufacturing multiples inexpensive and simple.

Specifications
Length: 11 inches without a handle or barrel.
Draw length: 3 inches
Plunger tube: 1.75 inches in diameter
Plunger load: 55lb
Spring load maximum: 55lb
Optimal Barrel Length: 12 inches (I lol’d)

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Construction:
Template File

Essential Tools
~ A Scroll Saw or both a Band Saw and a Jig Saw or a Jig Table
~ Power Drill or Drillpress
~ 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8” flat-blade wood-boring drill bits (a.k.a. "spade bits")
~3/16”, 5/32” and 7/64” regular drill bits
~ #6-32 Tapping Bit (2522A717 on Mcmaster)
~ Screwdriver
~ Wrench
~ Utility knife
~ Scissors
~ Inkjet printer
~“Amazing Goop”
~Rubber Cement, or printable full-sheet label paper

No other tools expressly needed.

Part List
All items available through http://www.mcmaster.com

Simply search for the part numbers listed. Total cost of supplies listed is around $80 plus shipping. You will have enough excess of most materials to make at least 2 or 3 more guns.

~First LAB:
4 feet	Aluminum U channel for 1/4" plywood at Lowe’s	$5.42 
1	Plunger tube	8585K18	$8.22 	$8.22 
1	Plunger head washer	90131A105	$4.85 	$4.85 
1	Plunger head reducers	92511A087	$1.90 	$1.90 
1		92510A442	$0.27 	$0.27 
1	3/8" Screws	90402A146	$5.31 	$5.31 
1	Spring	9637K14	$10.16 	$10.16 
1	1/4" Polycarbonate Sheet	8574K28 	$12.06 	$12.06 
1	1/8" Polycarbonate Sheet	8574K26 	$6.59 	$6.59 
1	#6 nylon washers	90295A075 	$2.80 	$2.80 
1	1/2" diameter Nylon rod	8541K18	$1.11 	$1.11 
1	PVC Bushing	4880K172	$2.18 	$2.18 
			Total:	$60.87 

~First LAB, if you have left-overs from a +bow:
4 feet	Aluminum U channel for 1/4" plywood at Lowe’s	$5.42 
1	Plunger tube	8585K18	$8.22 	$8.22 
1	Plunger head washer	90131A105	$4.85 	$4.85 
1	Plunger head reducers	92511A087	$1.90 	$1.90 
1		92510A442	$0.27 	$0.27 
1	Spring	9637K14	$10.16 	$10.16 
1	PVC Bushing	4880K172	$2.18 	$2.18 
			Total:	$33.00 

~Second LAB:
1	Plunger head reducers	92511A087	$1.90 	$1.90 
1		92510A442	$0.27 	$0.27 
1	1/2" diameter Nylon rod	8541K18	$1.11 	$1.11 
1	PVC Bushing	4880K172	$2.18 	$2.18 
			Total:	$5.46

*

*All prices are not guaranteed. The material list has changed some, and I will revisit the prices soon.

Note: If you really need to save money, you can take the 1/8” polycarbonate off of the materials list, and make those pieces out of 1/4” polycarbonate, making the plunger tube and aluminum u channel pieces .5” longer. You’ll have to adjust the holes in step 9. You can also try the untested version, linked in the original thread.

Step One


(Ignore the crossed out pieces, they’re from the prototype version)
Print out the template sheets, and make sure that the pieces are the right size. You may have to adjust some settings to get this to work properly. To check, the largest circle should be 1.75” in diameter.

Cut out the templates, and arrange them accordingly on the sheet of polycarbonate, setting aside the one labeled “Nylon Rod”.

If you used label paper, peel off the backings and apply the templates to the polycarbonate. Otherwise, use the rubber cement to apply the paper cutouts. Make sure to remove all air bubbles, and be careful not to rip the paper. Let the adhesive dry.

Make sure that the pieces marked 1/8” PC are on the 1/8” polycarbonate!

Step Two


Using a drillpress or power drill, follow the color legend to drill out the respective holes. All holes not colored are labeled.
Tap all 7/64” holes to a 6-32 thread.

Step Three


Finish out the catch portion with your tools of choice, while it’s still in the sheet.
After that, machine all of the pieces out of the sheet.
Round the edges on the spring post on the catch. Go ahead and remove all paper backing, and clean up any rough edges (especially on the catch) with a utility knife.

Step Four


Cut off a 10” (or greater, if you prefer) piece of the nylon rod. Cut that section into three pieces. One at 9” long, and the other will be the length of the excess. You may find it safer to have the 1” piece longer than one inch, for when you’re cutting it.

Apply the “nylon rod” template piece to the longer piece, starting from one end. If you’re using the rubber cement, you’ll need rubber bands to hold the template in place as the adhesive dries.

Step Five


Cut the notch in the plunger rod, and drill the marked holes. Drill the front end with the 5/32” bit, then tap.

The channel running down the plunger rod needs to be cut entirely, and needs the corners squared off. Feed the blade of your tool of choice into the 1/4” holes, and finish out that area.

Step Six


Cut one of the springs to 4 3/8 inches in length, with a little extra if anything.

Step Seven


Cut the polycarbonate tube to 5.5” in length with your preferred tool.

Step Eight


Cut two pieces of the aluminum U channel at 10 3/8” long.

Measuring from one end, drill 5/32” holes in the aluminum at the following distances:
1/4”
5 5/8”
8 11/16”
9 1/2”
10 1/8”

Edited by Split, 15 February 2010 - 04:51 PM.

[Split]

Step Nine


Assemble the plunger head. The smaller circle goes towards the front. The smaller metal spacer fits into the larger one, and you’ll need two rubber washers. Use one of the 3/4” screws to attach the tapped end of the plunger rod.

Step Ten


Just like the +bows, this catch uses four 3/4” screws and 8 nylon washers. Run a screw through a washer, then through a channel in the catch, through another washer and into the catch plate. Repeat until all four screws are in.

Step Eleven


Now you’re going to need to install the catch plate and back plate onto the side panels. A small trick for making this easier that I figured out is to run drill bits through the holes in the side panels, with the plates inside. It holds them tightly, but allows enough room for you to position the parts. It also keeps the side panels lined up where you want them.

Mark, drill (7/64”), tap then install the two plates, so that the catch is between the two.

Step Twelve


Drill and tap one end of that 1” (or greater) piece of nylon rod from earlier. Then, twist it, tapped end first, through the 1/2” hole in the top of the catch plate until the one end is flush with the top of the back plate. Run a 3/8” screw through the back plate and into the rod to secure it.

Now, drill and tap a 7/64” hole vertically through the center of the nylon rod, right over the spring rest on the catch. Put your catch spring onto the spring rest, then thread a 3/4” screw through the hole and into the top of the spring.

Step Thirteen


Wrap electrical tape around the end of the plunger until it is snug inside of the PVC bushing, but can still move all the way into the end of it.

Step Fourteen


Align the three holes at the end of the U-channel with those on the side panels, and run 3/8” length screws through the U-channel and into the polycarbonate.

Mark a hole at 1/4” from the lip on the bushing, and drill and tap a 7/64” hole there. Line this hole up with the front most one on the U-channel, and screw in a 3/8” long screw. Use the other piece of U-channel to mark a similar hole on the opposite side of the bushing. Drill, tap and screw in that spot as well.

Step Fifteen


Measure 5 1/16” from the uncut end of the plunger tube, and mark a small dot. Drill this dot out with a 5/32” bit. Push the plunger tube into the bushing in the assembly, lining up this hole with the corresponding one in the U-channel.

Push a 3/4” screw through the unused hole in the U-channel and into the hole.

Making sure everything is aligned, drill through the opposite side and into the plunger tube with the 5/32” bit. Remove the 3/4” screw and the plunger tube.

Step Sixteen


Place the largest, 1/4” thick polycarbonate circle into the back end of the plunger tube, and force it down until it is perfectly at 3/8” from the end. The holes you just drilled should line up in the center of the sides. Mark through the holes onto the sides of the circle. Remove the circle, and drill out your marks with a 7/64” bit, then tap. Reinstall the circle with the four screws shown.

Step Seventeen


This is a bit of a complicated step, so I'll try to break it up as much as possible.
If you haven't already, attach your plunger head to the plunger rod. Slide your spring over, then feed the plunger rod combo down the plunger tube. Remove your bushing from your assembly.

Slide your plunger rod combo back through your catch and body assembly. Add the 3/4" screws through the U channel and into the two open holes in the spring rest/plunger tube.

Now take your bushing and, with a dab of goop, run your finger around the wall of the inside of the bushing. Make sure it's nicely coated, but not too thickly. Line up the bushing holes to the front U-channel ones, and slide your bushing down onto your plunger tube, and screw it into place. Make sure to move the plunger a few times to make sure it's not gooped to the front (there should be a small gap, but just in case the goop overflowed).

Your blaster will still be able to be disassembled, but it's obviously more complicated now. Typically, you need to unscrew the bushing screws, and all six from the spring rest. This method of assembly is just simpler and faster.

Step Eighteen


I'm leaving it up to the community to design and implement the actual lever design. It's a sort of forced-creativity, but if you got this far without reading the whole thing ahead-of-time, you don't have much of a choice. I will note that from the marked pivot point, your tip going into the plunger should be about 3 3/8" from center. I recommend cutting this too big then sanding it until it's just perfect. I also recommend using a much larger bolt than #6 - I used 1/4" - and bulking up the area around the pivot on the lever itself. Other than that, I leave everything up to you, including the material. I'm not even going to provide a template for the lever on mine(right away, at least).

Step Nineteen - Finish


The same story is going to go for the trigger, except this time I didn't even add a pivot point, nor do I have a recommendation for basically anything. For all I care, you can go back to the beginning and reverse the direction the catch moves, with some amazing new trigger, and honestly, I hope you do.
I used a thumb button trigger that works adequately, and allows me to use my lever as a handle. I'm not giving you a template for that either. In fact, there aren't even any pictures in here with it.

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A quick list of ideas to this ranging from obvious to absurd:
Spring load the lever to keep it in place while aiming
A new style plunger head
Nested K29 and [k26] springs
Use a +bow grip
Use a nerf shell grip
Use a whole nerf shell body
Have a whole set of modular triggers/handles/levers
Put one LAB on top of another
Attach two LABs side by side
Manta labs
Link a turret and/or breech <- an originally intended benefit. Different portions of the lever move different distances, making it very simple to link systems to the priming.

Long story short - Customize it, bitch. Worst case scenario? Make a second, it costs close to nothing more.

Video:

Edited by Split, 15 February 2010 - 04:52 PM.

[death by cheez]

Ho. Ly. Shit. That's pretty darn awesome dude!

[AquaPsudo]

Wow. I don't even comprehend this-but AWESOME!

[HOTH]

Damn! Sexy beast. Nice job

[polycarb]

One thing about your templates. The part where the lever attaches isn't on the templates. If I were to cut out the templates, my lever would have nowhere to attach to.

[k9turrent]

About fucking time...

[minsc]

Nice work. I can't tell if its just the refraction of the poly carb plates, but it looks to me like the screw attaching the lever is bending outward from all the strain. Probably a bad sign.

[Falcon]

Very nice work. It was only a matter of time before someone did something like this. Glad to see it was done well!

[Hipponater]

Definitely very interesting, I may try to build one over the summer or during spring break.

Great work, thanks for going through the trouble making templates.

Edit: Aha, thanks for clearing that up. I misread the post the first time and the glare on the plunger tube made it so that I could not see the notch in the plunger rod.

Edited by Hipponater, 08 February 2010 - 12:45 AM.

[Split]

Honestly, I understand not wanting to read the entire thing right now. There are a lot of mundane details that are only important if you're in the process of making it, I admit that.

But if you're going to question something in particular, at least read the caption for that picture.

Anyway, it's there hipponator. I don't know why you think you would see it from the back, but you can't. In the second to last picture, and the finished and unprimed photos, most of it is inside the plunger tube.

If you can't figure out how it works, here's a quick synopsis - The lever needs to push back the plunger somehow, so the tip of the lever goes into the middle of the plunger and as it rotates back, the plunger moves back. So no, you can't move the catch closer. It's 11" long. Less than a maverick. I don't know how small you need it, but this should suffice. And if not, redesign it. That's the point.

As for the lever pivot, it is there on the templates, and yes, using a #6 screw can't handle that much force. Both of these are noted.

Thanks for the compliments and all that. This is a very early revision, but I don't plan on putting much more time into it. I'm hoping the community will pick up some extent, so that not all (war-legal) homemades are just single shot springers.

Edited by Split, 07 February 2010 - 03:41 PM.

[jackster57]

Wait, so in its current form, it is without a handle. So it is more of a customizable add on than a Primary in its current form?

[Split]

I used a thumb button trigger that works adequately, and allows me to use my lever as a handle. I'm not giving you a template for that either. In fact, there aren't even any pictures in here with it.

[polycarb]

As for the lever pivot, it is there on the templates, and yes, using a #6 screw can't handle that much force. Both of these are noted.

That must mean that your side pieces(on your LAB) are an old version, and the templates are the new version, right?
The side plates have no "arm" as dEffeminateted in the writeup.
In the templates, is the lowest, leftest hole in the side pieces the pivot?

I questioned it because the templates don't look like in the write up.

Edited by polycarb, 08 February 2010 - 04:36 PM.

[Zorns Lemma]

I'm leaving it up to the community to design and implement the actual lever design. ... I'm not even going to provide a template for the lever on mine(right away, at least).

[Blacksunshine]

Nice work split. that big PT had me thinkin homemade expandablast.
looks like this will work great as an intergration.

[Rogue713]

Great job Split, I plan on making one with a whole handle and shell once I get the money.
props to you.

Edited by Rogue713, 08 February 2010 - 07:03 PM.

[CA13]

Are the spikes on the top integral to the design? I liked the concept, but it seems confusing and wonky to use in a battle. Not to ask too much, but could you post a video? Thanks.

[Darth Tom]

Are the spikes on the top integral to the design? I liked the concept, but it seems confusing and wonky to use in a battle. Not to ask too much, but could you post a video? Thanks.

I think he has a point. I mean, who could possibly guess why an unfinished, partially designed homemade would be confusing and "wonky" to use in a battle? You definitely need to post a video, because pictures and text clearly cannot convey the fact that it's unfinished and incomplete, making it unusable in the exact state shown.

I remember when people who were around for ~ 2 years could understand words.

Edited by Darth_Tom, 10 February 2010 - 04:12 PM.

[Ryan201821]

Great work Split, I finally got around to really reading the write-up. I think this design has so much potential for awesomeness. I'm glad you left the project unfinished, and up to the user to create something unique. I think it's a lot more beneficial to the community and fun to see what people come up with.

I definitely want to get around to making one of these sometime in the future.

[Split]

"Unfinished" really isn't the word to describe it. The design (or at least mine) is complete and fully functional. I find "imperfected" to be more accurate. Just like the first iteration of the SNAP or PlusBow, it needs refining. Problem is, I've moved on. I spent plenty of time on this thing, and I have other (still nerfy) interests at this point. Maybe in reference to the plans itself, "incomplete" is more accurate since I left out parts for you to design yourself, but the project itself is finished.

And thanks to Ryan and possibly Darth Tom who actually understands the concept. Otherwise, I'll try and get a video up soonish.

Edited by Split, 10 February 2010 - 07:26 PM.

[polycarb]

And thanks to Ryan and possibly Darth Tom who actually understands the concept. Otherwise, I'll try and get a video up soonish.

After a couple of days, I finally understand the design. Now that I get it, I think that you may want to make multiple levers, as I think that the lever could break from all of the stress. The lever is making it easier for us, but puts much, much more strain on the piece.

What I'm really asking is:"Is there any wear on the priming lever?"

[Zorns Lemma]

And thanks to Ryan and possibly Darth Tom who actually understands the concept. Otherwise, I'll try and get a video up soonish.

After a couple of days, I finally understand the design. Now that I get it, I think that you may want to make multiple levers, as I think that the lever could break from all of the stress. The lever is making it easier for us, but puts much, much more strain on the piece.

What I'm really asking is:"Is there any wear on the priming lever?"

Not as much as there would be on the pivot. But go and design a better lever and pivot.

[Split]

Video:

[Ice Nine]

Video: Chops is a bamf.

I can't even describe.

First that one project you're doing for me, and now this showing me what to expect out of that other project? Holy balls dude. Absolutely floored.

P.S. Chops has definitely beaten Gears in the muscle department.