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Rscb Bow And Arrow


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#1 popatachi

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 09:53 PM

Simple modification to a blaster that I've wanted to try out. This Bow and Arrow has a pretty good seal until the inch or so. I'm not sure if the barrel widens or was bent, but it is what it is. I thought about replacing the plunger head, but not right now.

Credit to Fome for the original writeup.

Video Review

Materials:Bow and Arrow
CPVC coupler
CPVC tee
1 1/2" length of CPVC
3/4" length of CPVC
9" length of CPVC
1 CPVC end cap
10" length of 5/8 PETG
2" length 1/2 PETG
1 Screw
1 Bungee cord
2 ScrewsTools:Hack saw
Dremel
Files
Sand paper
Glue (Goop and hot)Step 1: Disassemble the blaster

Remove the eight screws and open up the blaster. Take out the plunger and plunger rod and inspect everything for cracks, chips or any signs of wear.


Step 2: Modify the plunger head

Different models of the Bow and Arrow have a different plunger head. Here is mine. You have to remove two white plastic pins in order to remove the plunger head.

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Flare out the plunger and add some hot glue to help increase the seal.

Saw off the small white cap at the top and glue one some foam to help pad the plunger and fill the space with hot glue.

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Connect the plunger assembly. My Bow and Arrow only had one white cap, so I opted to use a screw to hold the assembly together.


Step 3: Modify the blaster shell

In order to minimize as much dead space as possible (because there will be some already with the height) I opted to attach the RSCB as close to the plunger tube as possible. This meant cutting the shell to allow the CPVC to be closer.

Cut off the top front area of the blaster and widen the hole to the plunger tube. Use the inner walls of the blaster as your guide. Sand smooth and round the edges. Test fit your CPVC elbow to make sure it will fit properly when the blaster is closed. I also sanded the sides of the CPVC elbow to help with the fit.

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Step 4: Create the RSCB assembly

Close the blaster and insert the CPVC elbow into the front opening. Take your 1 1/2" CPVC length and insert that into the elbow and attach the tee to the top. Make sure that this assembly is straight and is lined up with the hole in the top handle. Take the 3/4" length of CPVC and add that to the other end of the elbow.

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When you are satisfied with the fit, put it aside.


Step 5: Cut down the existing barrel

Take the plunger tube and cut off the plunger tube that accepts the arrows. This is about 1/4" away from the plunger tube, but it may vary depending on your CPVC. I ended up cutting about 3/4" and then filed the tube down dry fitting the elbow and plunger tube into the shell to make sure of the fit.

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To help stabilize the RSCB assembly, add hot glue in the shell and a couple of tabs to the elbow to keep the assembly secure.

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(The tabs are partially hidden by the electrical tape.


Step 6: Dry fit, glue, re-assemble

Put everything minus the plunger rod together and turn it around and around. Make sure that everything is how you want it to look.

Now take out your glue and glue the RSCB assembly, and when that is dry, glue the assembly to the plunger tube. Because the plunger tube is a soft plastic, give it a generous amount of time to dry and use a lot of goop and then wrap in electrical tape.


Step 7: Add barrel and dart chamber

For the dart chamber I was able to find 5/8" outer diameter PETG. This is the same diameter as CPVC and it fits OMC's PETG very tight. Add this to the CPVC tee, add a cap, and make a breech in the back to be able to load darts. Once dry, glue this to the back of the tee. This particular dart chamber can hold seven 1.5" stefans.

For the barrel, make sure to cone out the back of the barrel so that darts fit about 1/4" into the barrel. Attach and glue this to the front of the tee.

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Step 8: Add bungee cord

In order to add a bungee cord, some reinforcements are needed. Take the 2 screws and cut them down to fit into the slots seen in the pictures below. Cut away the middle slot, drop in the screw and add hot glue around the slot and below that one as well.

Get your bungee cord and check the fit. I had to remove the rubber from the hook in order to get the hook to sit flush with the blaster shell.

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On the handle, cut some spare piece of PVC and glue it to the top of the inside of the handle. This will help to keep the bungee cord straight as you draw back the plunger.

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Step 9: All done!

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The picture doesn't have the pink arms, but those will get attached with no modifications.

I don't have ranges yet. I'll post them when I get to it.

I would definitely recommend reinforcing the bottom handle as it can and will break over time. I haven't done it yet, but here's link to a thread the fixes it post-break. Bottom handle fix

Edited by popatachi, 28 October 2011 - 07:48 AM.

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#2 princexbuster

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 11:01 PM

In both of the ones I have the seal goes bad at the last inch so that is most likely normal. Thats really clean though. Congrats.
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Sexy Dwarves.

#3 Blue

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 11:02 PM

Very nice use of the sight, looks great.
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#4 popatachi

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 12:26 AM

@princexbuster: thanks for the information. Glad to know it's not just mine!

@Blue: thanks! This thing is a lot of fun, I can't wait to try it out doors.
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#5 Fome

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 12:51 AM

Awesome work!

RSCB BnAs are tons of fun and surprisingly formidable.
I think I'm going to mess with the plunger head on my BnA, see if I can't squeeze some performance out of it.

Also, I love your RSCB breech!

Edited by Fome, 15 December 2009 - 02:23 AM.


#6 popatachi

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Posted 16 December 2009 - 01:11 PM

@Fome: Thanks! I might try to reinforce the bottom handle. I was told from some others that that is a potential weak point and could break.

I had also thought about trying to find a replacement plunger tube out of PVC? But didn't invest too much time into looking for one.

Overall, it is a fun blaster.
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