Jump to content


Photo

Q For Citadel Paint Users.

compatible clear coat?

12 replies to this topic

#1 mystefansdontflystraight

mystefansdontflystraight

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,176 posts
  • Location:Toronto, Canada

Posted 24 September 2009 - 04:48 PM

Hey guys. I painted my crossbow with krylon fusion, and Citadel (games workshop) paints over that. Everything was going fine until I tried to put on the clear-coat.
I was using this stuff to do the clear coat. I was getting that awful crackling effect, which really pissed me off, because now I have to re-do the entire handle of my crossbow.

Any advice on what clear coat to use would be most welcome.
  • 0
QUOTE(Blacksunshine @ Dec 24 2009, 02:15 PM) View Post

QUOTE(white moonlight @ Dec 23 2009, 01:29 PM) View Post

It's just screaming to be rearloading...

I seen a movie about that once.



#2 cheesypiza001

cheesypiza001

    Member

  • Members
  • 752 posts
  • Location:Connecticut

Posted 24 September 2009 - 05:08 PM

I also got a bad cracking thing going on in the paint when I used a Krylon clear coat (Not the same one you used).

I think that you may have to let the first few coats dry a lot until you apply the clear coats, but I could be wrong.

Edited by cheesypiza001, 24 September 2009 - 05:09 PM.

  • 0

#3 Blacksunshine

Blacksunshine

    Member

  • Members
  • 948 posts
  • Location:WA

Posted 24 September 2009 - 05:17 PM

The cheese is right. Drying is essential to avoid the crackling. Prepping has alot to do with it as well. But even with that I like to use some sealer on a blaster before I hit it with the Krylon 3x gloss coat. The sealer I would suggest is
http://www.plaidonli...itemID=CS200307

It actually does come in matte as well as gloss.
I usually let things dry for at least 24hr before I hit it with the sealer or the gloss.
depending on the blaster I will sometimes leave it with the sealer. Moving peices sometimes don't give enough clearance for teh thick gloss coat.

Edited by Blacksunshine, 24 September 2009 - 05:19 PM.

  • 0
Forgive my spelling and grammar. I post from my cell phone a lot. Sometimes when I'm on the can at work.

#4 dizzyduck

dizzyduck

    Member

  • Members
  • 627 posts
  • Location:Louisville, Kentucky
  • State:Kentucky
  • Country:United States

Posted 24 September 2009 - 05:24 PM

I wouldn't recommend using Citadel paints. They're expensive, soupy, and fade over time with exposure to light.

http://www.spaceagep...id_product=8570
That's the stuff I use for clear-coats. It's wonderful stuff.
  • 0
Duck off.
Art & Stuff

#5 The Kart Racing Nerf Man

The Kart Racing Nerf Man

    Member

  • Members
  • 150 posts
  • Location:Rancho Sante Fe, CA

Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:26 PM

I use Citadel paints a lot as they have a huge variety of colors. I have had the same effect with using clear coats but i would wait a good 24-36 hours before clear coating it, and do a couple of light coats to avoid the crackling. Thats what i did for my red longshot and i did not get a crackling effect. Hope this helps!
  • 0
I'm a Mac

Paste this into your sig if you are a Mac.


#6 Merzlin

Merzlin

    Member

  • Members
  • 589 posts

Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:46 PM

I also use Games Workshop paints, and it dry incredibly quick. I usually let it dry for an hour or so. For the clear coat, I apply it as I would apply a base coat. Light, thin, and multiple coats untill it comes out great! Let atleast 30 minutes drying time inbetween each coat.
  • 0

#7 Seven7h Man

Seven7h Man

    Member

  • Members
  • 147 posts
  • Location:Long Valley
  • State:New Jersey
  • Country:United States

Posted 24 September 2009 - 08:39 PM

GS paint leaves a wonderful finish. Plus they were deigned for warhammer figurines, which are made of plastic. What are nerf gun shells made of? Plastic.

Also what my painting technique is, is to spray Krylon flat white on the shell which basically turns the shell into a blank canvas, fit for painting.

Edited by Seven7h Man, 24 September 2009 - 08:43 PM.

  • 0

#8 Fome

Fome

    Member

  • Banned
  • 312 posts

Posted 24 September 2009 - 08:39 PM

I use this stuff:
Posted Image

This stuff:
Posted Image

And this stuff:
Posted Image

In that order.
The most important part to making a durable paintjob is allowing the paint to dry for 24+ hours. I even let the primer (krylon fusion) dry for about 72 hours just to be safe.
Learning to mix your own colors is essential, there's no reason to buy a bottle of "butt-chunk sunrise" when you could easily mix it yourself. It'll save you a lot of money in the long run. Metallics are the exception.

Also, heavy sanding and acetone washes help a LOT before you prime. Nerf guns seem to have some sort of gloss on them, getting that all off = no scratches.

TL;DR?

properly prep your work, allow it to dry fully before moving to the next step.

#9 Kyrativ

Kyrativ

    Member

  • Members
  • 151 posts
  • Location:Alberta, Canada
  • State:Alberta
  • Country:Canada

Posted 24 September 2009 - 09:39 PM

Damn, kinda sucks to hear that about my old xbow...
ive heard of people/have done myself of soaking minatures in a bath of green works, if you need to remove that paint, it would work just would take a while/lots of green works.
  • 0
The only nerfer who could kick your ass with a dart tag gun but not with a xbow

NERFSTRONG #44

#10 TantumBull

TantumBull

    Member

  • Moderators
  • 1,929 posts
  • Location:Seattle, WA
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/LukeKoboJobo on Reddit

Posted 24 September 2009 - 11:31 PM

I've had a lot of trouble with this in the past. The key is very thin coats and holding the can farther away from the blaster. Letting it dry as others have said is also essential.
  • 0

#11 pjotrkuh

pjotrkuh

    Member

  • Members
  • 259 posts
  • Location:'S-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands
  • Country:Netherlands

Posted 25 September 2009 - 05:20 AM

I use the Games workshop Purity Seal spray, works a charm (for me), BUT do not spray it to thick, because it wil leave a yellowish glaze
  • 0
When the shit hits the fan, you'd better wear a rain coat.....

#12 BritNerfMogul

BritNerfMogul

    Member

  • Members
  • 559 posts
  • Location:Merseyside, UK
  • State:England
  • Country:United Kingdom

Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:24 AM

Wow, surprised I took so long to reply here...

I find mixing paints and sealers from different companys is a BAD idea. Most of the ones I've tried, it all eneded horribly.

I personal would go with Citadel's Purity Seal. Works wonders on my stuff...
  • 0

#13 mystefansdontflystraight

mystefansdontflystraight

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,176 posts
  • Location:Toronto, Canada

Posted 25 September 2009 - 11:41 AM

Thanks for the great responses guys. I will try to go get some purity seal.
Thanks!
  • 0
QUOTE(Blacksunshine @ Dec 24 2009, 02:15 PM) View Post

QUOTE(white moonlight @ Dec 23 2009, 01:29 PM) View Post

It's just screaming to be rearloading...

I seen a movie about that once.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users