19 replies to this topic

[Mr BadWrench]

required

1/2in cpvc
3/4in pex
1/2in hollow aluminum rod
1/2in cpvc couplers
3/4x3/4x1/2in CPVC reducing TEE
hotglue
saw

excuse my video editing capabilities... I learn quick but not quick enough for this build.

heres the basics Click on the pictures to make them larger.



I ran a 3/4in drill bit into the tee to make room for the 3/4in PEX pipe, this is just to reduce deadspace inside the tee..



you can see a 5/8in long piece of 1/2in cpvc sticking out the small end of it, deburred and smoothed on the inside. Tee is hotglue to end of LS plunger tube making airtight seal.



1ft long piece of 1/2in hollow aluminum tube installed into longshot priming thingamajig. I used a piece of 1/2in long 1/2in cpvc and some etape to make sure it was centered and then hotglued the bajezus out of it all.



side pic. stock Longshot piece, 1.5in piece of cpvc, aluminum rod and oring. If you look back to the first pic you can see where the hole needs to be. the rest of the piece of aluminum rod is plugged off with hotglue blocking air from coming out the front of it. you will have to fiddle with the length of the cpvc to get a seal between the oring and the chamfered surface inside the cpvc reducing tee.



here is the assembly inside the LS shell (or whats left of an LS shell)




nother angle

Edited by Mr BadWrench, 15 September 2009 - 08:28 AM.

[Mr BadWrench]

Edited by Mr BadWrench, 15 September 2009 - 10:22 PM.

[Collective]

Thank you for this! I saw your pic a while ago and was very interested in trying to make one, but I was completely baffled on how you did it. Now I can try again!

I assume it get singled longshot ranges?

[Mr BadWrench]

It does alright. every build I pick up a little range, this is #3 and it has even more internal deadspace reduction.

I really dislike measuring where the darts land and calling that range. My garage is 56 feet long and I can Hit an OMC sized target on the opposite wall.. I consider that effective.

Don

[Lt Stefan]

So the aluminum tube does allows you to prime it? Interesting...

[CA13]

I love the Longshit, in all of it's glory. Great job with sealing the tube for a priming action, and making the writeup easy as heel to understand. Really great job.

[Nerf Bros]

Nice, I shot down my ideas of doing it like Atomatron did it because I wanted an RSCB, but now I might be able to get everything I wanted and more. Whats the best source for 1/2" aluminum?

Edited by Nerf Bros, 15 September 2009 - 08:27 PM.

[ricochet rebels]

Nice, I shot down my ideas of doing it like Atomatron did it because I wanted an RSCB, but now I might be able to get everything I wanted and more. Whats the best source for 1/2" aluminum?

You could probably use Brass or Copper, yes?

Edited by ricochet rebels, 15 September 2009 - 09:27 PM.

[Mr BadWrench]

you can use anything hollow... the 1/2in aluminum is available at the same store I got the rest of my pieces.

Don

[sublimedom777]

How does the rod stay out when the gun is primed? Did I miss that part?

Hope to see this on Sunday.

-Dom

[Mr BadWrench]

It just does.... no explination.

[flamincows]

I was also worried about the rod falling back into the plunger tube. I imagine it's not a problem if you say it isn't. Have you/ would you use it in a war? I feel like you said you had used it in a war in the mods and paint jobs thread, but I'm not sure if I'm remembering correctly.

I think my favorite aspect of this is how much it redeems the longshot (in my estimation anyway). This is much simpler to pull off than the typical longshot overhaul and it soulds like the performance is very similar (good range, great ROF).

I too hope to see this on Sunday.

[Mr BadWrench]

I used version 1.0 at APOC

I used version 2.0
at a Columbus ohio war
Boone Woods Kentucky war
and Rapid Run Park in Cinci


version 3.0 I just built for the vid last night.

the priming arm just snaps in place when you pull it back out... its glued securely and the pressure from the plunger keeps it in place when the blaster is fired.

Don

[CA13]

Couldn't you use two tees on the handle instead of one elbow and one tee on the barrel? That would make the pump actuation more like a fore grip.

[Mr BadWrench]

I have. but the Street L fits better.... plus im not quite done.

[CA13]

If you made the tee face the other way, and make a 3in extension with an end cap in the PVC, you would have a classic shotgun pump.

[Mr BadWrench]

Im building this one for Chop (from Cinci)

There's no major internal differences, just cosmetics. But I do have an idea I will be testing at the Columbus war.

Don

[mrgamersco]

required

1/2in cpvc
3/4in pex
1/2in hollow aluminum rod
1/2in cpvc couplers
3/4x3/4x1/2in CPVC reducing TEE
hotglue
saw

excuse my video editing capabilities... I learn quick but not quick enough for this build.

heres the basics Click on the pictures to make them larger.



I ran a 3/4in drill bit into the tee to make room for the 3/4in PEX pipe, this is just to reduce deadspace inside the tee..



you can see a 5/8in long piece of 1/2in cpvc sticking out the small end of it, deburred and smoothed on the inside. Tee is hotglue to end of LS plunger tube making airtight seal.



1ft long piece of 1/2in hollow aluminum tube installed into longshot priming thingamajig. I used a piece of 1/2in long 1/2in cpvc and some etape to make sure it was centered and then hotglued the bajezus out of it all.



side pic. stock Longshot piece, 1.5in piece of cpvc, aluminum rod and oring. If you look back to the first pic you can see where the hole needs to be. the rest of the piece of aluminum rod is plugged off with hotglue blocking air from coming out the front of it. you will have to fiddle with the length of the cpvc to get a seal between the oring and the chamfered surface inside the cpvc reducing tee.



here is the assembly inside the LS shell (or whats left of an LS shell)




nother angle

What the hell is an rscb!?

[Mr BadWrench]

What the hell is an rscb!?

Why the hell did you quote the entire post?
and a necro!!

the 3rd result on google was
www.nerfhaven.com/mods/ss_rscb/

You're not going to last very long here if you do not read the rules, you get my thread locked and I will seek revenge.

[KitAdrian]

In order to make this thread relevant, so it doesn't get locked, May I make a suggestion for killing dead space?

So the Aluminum tube that you use to prime the gun is hollow, right, and there's a hole in the top of it for the air to go up and into the RSCB? Perhaps if you packed the tube in front of that hole full of an Epoxy of your choice, then the area forward of the hole would no longer be dead space, it would be cut off from the air flow path.