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A Painting Question


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#1 Vincent

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 07:47 PM

Well, I've only painted three guns before. They were all flat colors with spray paint. I've wanted to try painting some guns I had, and just had a quick question. Will acrylic paints work on plastic if I use a sealer on it afterwards? Thanks.
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#2 flamingeyes245

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 07:51 PM

If you put a coat of krylon fusion on first and the a thin layer of acrylics, yes, probably.
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#3 dizzyduck

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 08:04 PM

Short answer: yes.

Long answer: Smooth surfaces should be sanded down. I'd suggest a layer of vinyl dye or paint formulated for plastic (Krylon Fusion, for example) to begin with, then paint acrylics on them afterwards, then seal with clearcoat.
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#4 Vincent

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 08:11 PM

Ok, thanks. Its good to know I can do this. I think I'll start work on my Switchshot now.
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#5 Wes7143

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 10:10 PM

Be sure that when you apply the clear coat, that it is a laquer clear coat (in the wood paints section) or game shop clear coats (used for sealing the paint on your figures). The Krylon "clear coat", even though it may say outdoor, will become tacky, sticky, and possibly wear off from hot, humid weather, or even you just holding it for a few minutes.

Also, a base coat of Krylon "primer" will make a nice surface for hand-painting. Sanding and vinyl dye will also work nicely.

One more thing- make sure the gun is clean when you paint it. You don't want to seal any debris to your blaster.
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#6 Vincent

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 11:06 PM

Be sure that when you apply the clear coat, that it is a laquer clear coat (in the wood paints section) or game shop clear coats (used for sealing the paint on your figures). The Krylon "clear coat", even though it may say outdoor, will become tacky, sticky, and possibly wear off from hot, humid weather, or even you just holding it for a few minutes.

Also, a base coat of Krylon "primer" will make a nice surface for hand-painting. Sanding and vinyl dye will also work nicely.

One more thing- make sure the gun is clean when you paint it. You don't want to seal any debris to your blaster.

The sealer I'm using is for painting models, so that should work. Im using a plastic spray paint as a base coat because its all I have that adheres to plastic. It is quite clean, I just opened the box.
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QUOTE(Carbon @ Jul 14 2009, 07:50 PM) View Post

Heresy. Nothing beats pink flamingos.


#7 Blacksunshine

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 01:06 AM

Use this sealer.
Posted Image

It will be found in the crafts section of your stores. or at michales.
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#8 CoasterDynamix757

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 01:33 AM

Use this sealer.
Posted Image

It will be found in the crafts section of your stores. or at michales.



Won't flat clear valspar sealant work too?
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#9 pjotrkuh

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 03:53 AM

I used Alkyd (solvent) based paints on my recon, didn't have any troubles with it.

Posted Image

Base coat = Motip white base coat
Dark red metalic = Multona car paint
Silver = some kind of acrylic paint from a cheap store

(just fucked it up because i was impatient and re-assembled the gun before the paint was fully hardened)

On my mav's I used the Gamesworkshop Purity Seal as sealer, but I only sprayed the trigger, grip and the cocking handle

Edited by pjotrkuh, 31 July 2009 - 03:56 AM.

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#10 akmetan

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 08:00 AM

Won't flat clear valspar sealant work too?


Coaster - I would avoid the Valspar sealer entirely. I just picked up their plastic primer, 3 different paint colors and the sealer the other day to work on a few of my blasters. The primer and the paints worked okay (see below) but the sealer was awful. Even after 5 coats of the stuff and letting it dry over night, I could still scratch the paint off with little effort with my thumbnail. Use something else.

While on the subject of painting however, how many coats do you usually apply for some of the exposed internals, such as the trigger or the plunger handle? I painted my NF and after it dried, but before I sealed it I did a test reassemble and the trigger wouldn't move at all while the plunger handle kept sticking.

I thought I may have put too many coats on. But I'm also painting my TTG and made sure only to use 2 coats of primer and paint each and it seems like the plunger handle is sticking on that as well.

Might I just be applying too thick a coat?
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#11 pjotrkuh

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 08:52 AM

Won't flat clear valspar sealant work too?


Coaster - I would avoid the Valspar sealer entirely. I just picked up their plastic primer, 3 different paint colors and the sealer the other day to work on a few of my blasters. The primer and the paints worked okay (see below) but the sealer was awful. Even after 5 coats of the stuff and letting it dry over night, I could still scratch the paint off with little effort with my thumbnail. Use something else.

While on the subject of painting however, how many coats do you usually apply for some of the exposed internals, such as the trigger or the plunger handle? I painted my NF and after it dried, but before I sealed it I did a test reassemble and the trigger wouldn't move at all while the plunger handle kept sticking.

I thought I may have put too many coats on. But I'm also painting my TTG and made sure only to use 2 coats of primer and paint each and it seems like the plunger handle is sticking on that as well.

Might I just be applying too thick a coat?


Okay I assume you disasembled the WHOLE gun before you sprayed it right?

Then when assemling the gun make sure to scrape off the paint wherever sliding parts meet, like at the trigger assembly or boltsleds, or use some lube, I did put some grease on my recon, and it slid quite well.
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#12 wingd man

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 09:58 AM

Won't flat clear valspar sealant work too?


Coaster - I would avoid the Valspar sealer entirely. I just picked up their plastic primer, 3 different paint colors and the sealer the other day to work on a few of my blasters. The primer and the paints worked okay (see below) but the sealer was awful. Even after 5 coats of the stuff and letting it dry over night, I could still scratch the paint off with little effort with my thumbnail. Use something else.

It's called curing. Wait a day between each color paint and for the sealant. That being said, I use Krylon paints, so I wouldn't know. Maybe they are just shitty.

Edited by wing'd man, 31 July 2009 - 10:00 AM.

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#13 akmetan

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 10:30 AM

It's called curing. Wait a day between each color paint and for the sealant. That being said, I use Krylon paints, so I wouldn't know. Maybe they are just shitty.


That very well could be the case with the issue being my own damn impatience. I'm used to miniatures where you can get one done in an hour or two. Waiting this long has been somewhat agonizing. But if that's what it takes so be it.

Okay I assume you disasembled the WHOLE gun before you sprayed it right?


Yes, I did remove the trigger from the shell and the plunger from the tube and painted everything separately.
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#14 Blacksunshine

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 11:04 AM

Valspar takes a LOT longer to fully cure. But once it does it is pretty rugged stuff. Because of the dry time and how thick it goes on I usually avoid it.
I use Dupli color vinyl paint for the base. I've only found Valspar GLOSS. Never any sealer. If you don't mind adding the extra thickness to the paint it will work. But the sealer I posted also goes on so thin that it does not effect the function of the moving parts. And it is matte so if your aren't looking for a glossy blaster that's what you would want to use. It also comes in gloss.
Then use acrylic paints by hand for the rest. With the sealer I mentioned earlier you've got a solid paint job.

I also use Krylon Fusions from time to time when I need certain colors and don't wanna do it by hand.

It is very important to wash down and even lightly sand your blasters before painting. Most nerf guns use hardened plastics and as thus they do not take well. So sanding will open up their pores so that the paint can get a good bond. If you have access to acetone you can use a light rubbing of that also.

Edited by Blacksunshine, 31 July 2009 - 11:08 AM.

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#15 Slayer of OnE

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 11:56 AM

I figured that this would be the righ place to ask this:


Where can I find Vinyl Dyes??
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#16 atomatron

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 12:12 PM

I've been told that Vinyl dye can be found at auto parts stores.
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#17 CoasterDynamix757

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 02:05 PM

http://media.mydoitb...e=C&newsize=200


Don't know how to post the picture but wont this stuff work too?
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#18 JAX

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Posted 01 August 2009 - 06:44 PM

Well, I've only painted three guns before. They were all flat colors with spray paint. I've wanted to try painting some guns I had, and just had a quick question. Will acrylic paints work on plastic if I use a sealer on it afterwards? Thanks.



Hi Vincent,

Yes it might work, I myself have had some issues with acrylic paint on my guns. I would go with"Krylon Fusion" paint because it bonds to plastic at least 7-9 days after painting. My reasons are that sometimes acrylic paint will flake off the surface of the gun ruining the paint overall.

Hope this helped :(
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