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Rear Loading New Style 1500

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#1 Ice Nine

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 04:40 PM

This is Dumpster's turret mod. I claim no originality for that part, since he did it. However, this write-up will explain how to apply that rear-loading turret to the new style SuperMaxx 1500.

Start by breaking open the turret. I took the claw end of a hammer to the spring rest at the back of the turret and popped it right off. Your gun should look like this before starting:

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Decide which side you'd like to be able to load from. Since I prime the gun with my left hand, I decided to put the track on the left side. Drill into your turret:

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Please notice that the rest of the turret is currently stock. I have not yet bought brass with which to barrel my 1500s.

You'll want to make sure your port is centered so keep that other turret half handy.

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Now, you have completed the easiest part of this modification.

Take some PETG, you won't need more than two inches, and a razor blade.

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Cut the PETG at an angle.

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You do not want it to be too steep, although make it too shallow and you'll have to take out more of the shell than might be comfortable or necessary.

It should look something along the lines of this when done.

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Now, take your razor blade and cut a half-pipe out of the PETG.

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Hot glue the finished product into the turret.

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Now, to attack the shell. You should use the notch cut for the turret as the halfway mark.

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I don't have any in-progress pictures of this but the final product should clear it up. If you feel like complaining I did it all with these three tools:

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Now, this is what your shell should look like upon completion.

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Edited by Ice Nine, 25 July 2009 - 04:44 PM.

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#2 Ice Nine

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 04:43 PM

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This took me a while to do up, and I'm pretty proud of how clean it is considering the carelessness with which I worked and the, shall we say, poor tools I chose for this job. If you do it right you can slot your turret plate in fairly well.

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My darts are slightly tight in PETG, so the track is cut properly to hold it. My darts are also one and a half inches in length, so the track is cut a little long for that.

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A final comparison between the new and old styles:

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I'm very happy with the final product. This setup should be very war friendly and I very much hate both ramrodding and blowing darts down barrels. Once I get brass for barreling I can give completed results.

Edited by Ice Nine, 25 July 2009 - 04:44 PM.

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Unholy Three: DUPLUM SCRTA, DUPLUM PROBLEMA (2009)

But Zeke guns tend to be like proofs by contradiction

Theoretically solid but actually non-constructive

Rnbw Cln


#3 stuck by stefan

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 07:18 PM

That looks very nice, I would do it if I had the gun. But the only thing I think is a bit unclean is the cut into the shell. the track for the old style is perfect in my opinion though.

Edited by stuck by stefan, 25 July 2009 - 07:19 PM.

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#4 CaliforniaPants

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 11:31 PM

A very clean rear entry, something I've rarely seen
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#5 baghead

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 11:35 PM

Excellent use of very ghetto modding equip, I approve.
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#6 Vengeful Waffle

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 11:36 PM

Hm. Looks VERY clean, I hope to see this in action, someday.

Do you have to shove the projectile through the slot to rear load? Or does it just fall in?
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#7 Ice Nine

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 11:38 PM

Hm. Looks VERY clean, I hope to see this in action, someday.

Do you have to shove the projectile through the slot to rear load? Or does it just fall in?


My darts are tight in PETG, so the half pipe will grip them in place, so I can run around with a dart kept in that slot. A quick push on the back of the dart with my finger should push it through the slot and into a barrel.
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But Zeke guns tend to be like proofs by contradiction

Theoretically solid but actually non-constructive

Rnbw Cln


#8 Merzlin

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 12:32 AM

Fuckin wicked man, I'm glad you figured out on how to do it on the new style.
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#9 HOTH

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 01:15 AM

I love it man, can't wait to whip out the ol' tool box and give a shot.
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#10 CoasterDynamix757

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 12:11 AM

If I did this to an old style SM1.5k could I make the loading slot on either of the sides?

Other than that nice work.
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#11 hardshot

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 07:49 AM

Oh shit, now everyone with sm1500's will become even more deadly!
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#12 chalywong

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 10:34 AM

doesn't this completely ruin the seal when you drill the hole in the back part? What is preventing the air from just shooting out the sides of the turret now?
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#13 TantumBull

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 12:32 PM

doesn't this completely ruin the seal when you drill the hole in the back part? What is preventing the air from just shooting out the sides of the turret now?

If he didn't do anything else to the turret, you'd be correct. Although I'm guessing he'll be fixing the seal with the now enlarged turret holes.

Edited by TantumBull, 30 July 2009 - 12:32 PM.

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#14 Ice Nine

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 10:40 AM

If I did this to an old style SM1.5k could I make the loading slot on either of the sides?

Other than that nice work.


You could, but only to one side; it needs the little tabs on the turret to keep the turret centered and using the sides for rear-loading removes those tabs. I would say it's probably unnecessary.

doesn't this completely ruin the seal when you drill the hole in the back part? What is preventing the air from just shooting out the sides of the turret now?


Maybe you missed the part where the rest of the turret mod was written by Dumpy. You should read the first sentence of the first post again.
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Unholy Three: DUPLUM SCRTA, DUPLUM PROBLEMA (2009)

But Zeke guns tend to be like proofs by contradiction

Theoretically solid but actually non-constructive

Rnbw Cln


#15 CoasterDynamix757

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 12:11 AM

If I did this to an old style SM1.5k could I make the loading slot on either of the sides?

Other than that nice work.


You could, but only to one side; it needs the little tabs on the turret to keep the turret centered and using the sides for rear-loading removes those tabs. I would say it's probably unnecessary.




Really? It seems that the rear loading from the side would work a lot better. In terms of ROF. Because what would you rather do, load in a dart and have to rotate it twice to get the the dart OR load in a dart and rotate it once. I know its not a big difference but it could mran you getting hit.

A little on topic:

Will a rear loading slot on either side(left or right) effect the turret sturability in the shell?
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#16 Ice Nine

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 01:51 AM

Really? It seems that the rear loading from the side would work a lot better. In terms of ROF. Because what would you rather do, load in a dart and have to rotate it twice to get the the dart OR load in a dart and rotate it once. I know its not a big difference but it could mran you getting hit.

A little on topic:

Will a rear loading slot on either side(left or right) effect the turret sturability in the shell?


It seems you missed the point of what I said. There are two tabs to keep the turret on a 1500 locked in place. By making it loading on the side you must drill through said tabs. Drilling through both tabs removes the locking mechanism and has the possibility of messing up the turret's centering on the gun itself, although the tank stem might keep it from rotating too much.

Also, you only need to rotate twice ONCE, in theory, since if you keep rear loading the turret you will only cycle through that empty space once.

Plus, really? Rate of fire reduction from turning a 1500 turret? It's literally single digit milliseconds.
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Unholy Three: DUPLUM SCRTA, DUPLUM PROBLEMA (2009)

But Zeke guns tend to be like proofs by contradiction

Theoretically solid but actually non-constructive

Rnbw Cln


#17 CoasterDynamix757

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 02:05 AM

Okay then.

So if I drill one hole into one of the either sides it will be okay?
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#18 ilzot

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 01:50 PM

A very clean rear entry, something I've rarely seen


added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole.

Nice job, Ice9. I brought this to suggestion in IRC awhile ago and people thought I was mentally retarded. Knew it was possible. Something for me to take inot consideration with my 1500/.
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QUOTE(Vinnie D. @ Feb 1 2010, 05:28 AM) View Post

... to be able to get a better burst or sustained fire, rather than blowing the whole load at once.


#19 VACC

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 03:02 PM

A very clean rear entry, something I've rarely seen

added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole.


New rule: if you just want to sig something, just fucking sig it. To quote the comment and say NOTHING funny about it is to ruin potential comedy for those of us with the capability.

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#20 Judging Eagle

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 06:55 PM

A very clean rear entry, something I've rarely seen


When there's a will, and a willing entry .... way, you will always see a very clean rear entry. Also, bit of pressure, and the appropriate lubricant helps, but you need the will first.

As can be demonstrated by Ice's creation of the appropriate opening, and then fitting in the parts needed to acheive the rear-entry action that he was looking for his pump-action launcher to have. Now all he needs is a few strokes, and he'll be good to go for all the rear-loading action that he wants.

Ice also shows something that's key about experience. Any nubtard can use fancy and expensive tools to do a somewhat straightforward cutting job (of course, for actual machinging you'd be wasting time doing it with the wrong tools or materials), you need a bit of practise and experience in order to use very basic tools to get a job done.

Also, someone asked about durability; from what I can see, there are still "arches" of plastic that remain, so the force that the internal plastic supports that were cut into still have places to distribute their force to; a bit of expoy putty on the "thinner" section will probably help both remove any chance of wobble in the thinner piece, as well as help spread any force that the originally larger plastic was supporting.

I hope this helps to show the 'thinner' piece that I'm reffering to. If not... I'll do something in PS, not in paint.

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Ugh. The "thick" part should read "should be fine"; the "thin" part is more clear, I sort of drew an image of where the epoxy should be placed at a minimum (along the two widest parts of the 'thin' piece, but the expoy can be placed all the way around for a more solid support.

Edited by Judging Eagle, 04 August 2009 - 06:57 PM.

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#21 Merzlin

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Posted 29 August 2009 - 05:33 PM

Just to add a little help to those that need a sealing part for their 1500 INSIDE the turret, I can help

This oring seals the barrel to the air stem of the turret. Most people (me) tried a couple orings and sheet rubber but they were to big and/or screwed up the rotation of the turret.

http://www.mcmaster....115k109/=3ek2e5

I'll be ordering a pack of 100, hopefully this will fix our problem. Its ID is the same as the stem of the turret, and the OD is just enough to fit inside the restricted area. I'm sure if you have a smaller/larger barrel, you can change the OD to something more sufficient for your barrel material.
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