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Couplered Locking Breech, A New Type

Locking Tab Free! +Writeup

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#1 Lt Stefan

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 09:25 AM

One of the major problems of a slide breech is getting the barrel to slide in place, and stay there. As a solution to this problem, the locking breech is used. It has a locking tab that fits into a slot and keeps the barrel in place. This is especially useful in high-powered guns where the barrel tends to get pushed out of its firing position slightly. With a locking breech, this doesn't happen.

When I first shot my Big Blast with its PETG breech, the barrel shot halfway out of the PVC. I thought "That can't be good." The I remembered seeing CS's locking breech a while back and made my own locking mechanism. It went great. Until I lent the gun out at a war. When I got it back, the tab used to lock it was gone. I tried multiple tabs, but the all ended up breaking. So last week, I finally came up with a solution to the problem of locking breeches. I present to you: The Couplered Locking Breech. Or CLB for short.

This breech does not require difficult machining processes like CS's slide breech. It just doesn't look as cool. Anyone who has made a simple breech can make this.

Tools needed:
-Dremel with cutting wheel
-Ruler
-Your preferred method of cutting PVC (needs to be precise). I use a miter saw.
-Files/Sandpaper

Completely Unnecessary tools that I used because I wanted to mess around:
-Scroll Saw

Supplies needed:
-1/2" PVC
-Barrel Material of choice
-1/2" PVC Coupler
-E-tape
-Superglue
-5/8" O.D. O-ring. I think it's #9 at HD. Im not positive. (It just has to fit well in 1/2" PVC

This is what you will be making:
Posted Image

On to the writeup.

Step One

Take your PVC Coupler and measure the depth from the end to he ridge in the middle. Mine is about 3/4".
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Cut that amount off. Now push any piece of PVC into the coupler with enough force to make it tight; don't push it in all the way. Mark the spot where it stops.
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Subtract that from the depth of the coupler and that is the amount of open space the barrel has. For now it will be x. Now we have to do some calculations.

Find the length of the barrel material. Subtract the length of the little piece of PVC we cut earlier, and subtract 1/16" from the ridge in the middle. subtract "x," and now add 1/8," for the o-ring that will go in the back. Once you have that length, cut it from the PVC.

Step Two

Push the little PVC nub into one end of the coupler. Glue it in place.
Posted Image

Now wrap one end of your barrel in E-tape so it will fit snugly in the PVC.
Posted Image

Also put some other E-tape wrappings on the barrel like you normally would on a breech, except make these a little looser than the one on the end (because they have to slide).

Push the barrel through the coupler and into the PVC, where it should be flush with the end of the little pipe section.
Posted Image

Now glue it.
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Now take your O-ring, and put it in the end of the long piece of PVC so it's flush with the end, and glue it.
Posted Image

Step Three

While that's drying, go ahead and cut the breech opening. Mine's so far up because it's for a BBBB. I'm not going to do this step-by-step because you probably know how to do it.

Posted Image

What I like to do is take the scroll saw and make the vertical cuts so the are perfectly perpendicular, unlike with the dremel, where I'd have to angle it a little because the body gets in the way. Now use the dremel and go to town, and take your files/sandpaper and make it all nice and pretty.

Step Four

Now that the glue is dry, you can go ahead and assemble your breech. Make sure the back of the barrel is sealing with the O-ring, and you're good to go!

This is what I used it for:
Posted Image

I gotta say I really like the way this looks.

Here it is open:
Posted Image

And closed:
Posted Image

The whole point of this is to use the front part o the PVC sheath to lock in the coupler, therefore not being able to be pushed out by the air. SO twist the coupler out, insert your dart, and twist it in! It works great so far. I've had no issues. And the O-ring makes for a great seal between barrel and air-output. And it also acts as a dart stop.

Questions or Comments?

-EDIT-
If enough people ask, I may decide to sell them, especially because they require some pretty even accurate cuts. I've already been asked via pm by a few people...

Edited by Lt. Stefan, 10 July 2009 - 09:39 AM.

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#2 Hi Yah

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 09:39 AM

Amazing! It's so simple I can't believe I didn't think of that! Just one question, the o-ring is at the end of the PVC closest to the air output to seal with the barrel, right?
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#3 tack66

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 09:44 AM

Nice idea I have made these playing around but they always broke so I didn't make a writeup.How sturdy are they?
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#4 ChaosRaisin

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 10:05 AM

Very nice. I like how you sealed with the PVC. Also is it hard to get the coupler on and off.

Edited by ChaosRaisin, 09 July 2009 - 10:05 AM.

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#5 Lt Stefan

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 12:29 PM

::Hi Yah!- Yes that is correct. The PETG can't go on the inside of the o-ring.

::tack66- As sturdy if not sturdier than a normal breech because there is not exposed barrel. And there is kind of a "handle" (the coupler) that you use to open and close it.

::Thanks, and no it isn't. That's because The coupler doesn't fit completely over the sheath. Maybe about 3/4 of the way in, so it's tight, but not too tight. And also if you twist it on and off, the breech won't budge out of the gun's coupler.

-EDIT- Fixed the pics. Sorry about that.

Edited by Lt. Stefan, 09 July 2009 - 12:35 PM.

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#6 Bedhed117

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 12:56 PM

Why did you put the loading port in the middle? Wouldn't having it closer to the BBBB make less work in the reloading process? Other than that it looks good.
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#7 Hi Yah

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 01:02 PM

Why did you put the loading port in the middle? Wouldn't having it closer to the BBBB make less work in the reloading process? Other than that it looks good.

The bbbb isn't minimized so the dart has to be loaded in front of the front of the bbbb. And then the o-ring pushes the dart into the petg. So, it doesn't matter where the loading port is.
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The yellow balls are also slightly smaller in diameter than the green ones.

#8 Lt Stefan

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 01:24 PM

Yes Hi Yah is right. I like the way my 4B looks, so I decided to have the breech there to make it easier.
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#9 Bedhed117

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 05:07 PM

That makes sense, sorry I didn't see that pic of the BBBB the first time I read through. Also you said that you might sell some. If they were less than $10 I'd totally buy a few.
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QUOTE(Bedhed117 @ Aug 18 2009, 09:48 AM)

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#10 Lt Stefan

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Posted 09 July 2009 - 09:12 PM

Well I'm not sure yet, but depending on the type of barrel and the length, I could see in the neighborhood of $15. After all, if I remember correctly A Side of Nerf sold them for around $18. I think 15's fair. But let's not get too ahead of ourselves.
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#11 TantumBull

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Posted 10 July 2009 - 01:15 PM

Nice, dude. This is hilarious. I just made something like this and posted it in the mods and PJ thread on a 3K. That's funny that we both thought up like the exact same thing and posted it on the same day! Anyway, good work, dude. I love mine, hope you like yours as well.

Edit: After looking yours over again, our breeches are actually quite a bit different. Mine seals with 17/32 brass, not e-tape. The only thing the same is the coupler locking thing. And are you sure 15 is a fair price? Materials for this are like 2 or 3 bucks, and they take like 10 minutes to make. If it was me selling them I wouldn't sell them for over 10. Then again, I'm not selling them so it's your call. Just my 2 cents.

Edited by TantumBull, 10 July 2009 - 01:29 PM.

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#12 Lt Stefan

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Posted 10 July 2009 - 01:42 PM

Well with the o-ring sealing method, I need to take a while to measure and cut everything... And I also said I don't know yet.
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#13 Bedhed117

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Posted 11 July 2009 - 05:47 PM

I'd pay $15 each for them but only if you sold me two or three.
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#14 Lt Stefan

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Posted 12 July 2009 - 11:32 AM

Well some good news. There is a part two that is coming (I'll just say it involves CPVC and uses a 1/2" coupler...), and this weekend I made multiples of each. I will be selling them.
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