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Dtb/hyperfire Increased Plunger Travel

Originally posted at NHQ, but never before here.

5 replies to this topic

#1 KingBouyah



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Posted 20 February 2009 - 12:34 AM

I posted this on NHQ a while back, but I guess I forgot to put it up here once I was validated.
NHQ Link in case you want to read the comments posted there, too.
EDIT: Changed some grammar here and there.

-DTB/Hyperfire- I haven't seen the Hyperfire internals, but I assume they're exactly the same.
-Rotary Cutter-This is an absolute must for this mod, unless you're really skilled with a blade.
-thin metal rod
-rubber cement(optional)

1. First your standard air restrictor removal:
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Now broken down:
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2. While putting it back together, put a coat of rubber cement around the tip of each of the black barrel nubs and both sides of each orange ring. This gives you a cheap, easily removable, yet effective gasket to seal any leaks out the sides of the barrel. Then put the turret completely back together. Cover one end of each barrel with your finger and blow down the other, if you hear air coming out then you should have used better rubber cement or you didn't put it back together tightly enough.
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Now for the original part. It's hard to see in the picture below, but there's a lot of dead space in that plunger. If you happen to have one with a white plunger tube, you'll easily see that when it's cocked the plunger head is only half way back. We're going to remedy that a bit.

Here are the internals:
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The number to remember here is 1/2" that's how far back we're going to go. Even though it doesn't seem like a lot, that's what fits.

3. Start by marking 1/2" back on the shell where the slide should go. Do this on both sides.
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Now cut along the lines (keep them straight). With a large cutting wheel it's not too hard to keep straight. Smaller cutting wheels may be a bit difficult.
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Pop it out.
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Smooth it out now by shaving down the rough edges. A razor blade really came in handy, but only after I took this picture.
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4. Now you need your slide to come all the way back, too. Mark 1/2" on that bottom rail that fits in the groove of the shell below the hole you just cut. Cut the rail. Smooth it out. Do both sides.
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5. Take your plunger, remove the catch and the spring. See the front of the indentation with the slope? Measure 1/2" forward from the top of the slope(as in measure from the purple line towards the plunger head) and make a new slope and a new indentation. This is a bit trickier than it looks.
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You'll need to make some relief cuts for it to come out smoothly.
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It should end up like this:
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Now you'll want to reinforce it so it doesn't snap. I used a 1/8" steel rod available from Lowes. It took some coaxing (i.e. dremmelling) to get into those grooves. But once it was in, it stayed put just fine with some epoxy.
Since my rod was round, it needed shaved on the outside so it would fit back into the catch. Once you know it fits, take it back off and make sure you get the spring back on before you put it into your gun, I've done lame stuff like that before many times.
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6.You're done. Put it back together and you're good. No one will ever know.
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The nitty gritty...

I did this mod over a year ago and sold it on ebay. Back then I was a douchebag and was measuring my ranges angled and I claimed 90ft. I have since repented of my douchbaggery and I know that's not how ranges are measured. Since I no longer have the DTB in question, I can't test ranges. I'd guess somewhere between 40' and 50' flat.

I also later found that those ranges were because I had an excellent batch of loghomestore white foam that gave a tight fit in stock barrels without twisting. That stuff was legendary. I have since ordered two more batches and they've been way too fat.

Additionally, this mod could definitely use some more reinforcement, particularly the shell. Not only are you putting more air through the barrel by pulling the plunger farther back, that also compresses the spring to almost it's physical limit. I had planned to smooth over the plunger shaft, but it ended up that I left the original catch in the shaft. This allows you to cock it like normal, or give it more force and cock it farther back. I liked having that option. Sometimes, though, if I wasn't careful, the catch would slip.

In short, if I did this again I would:
-add padding to the plunger head
-add reinforcement to shell for the back of the spring
-add an extra catch spring
-measure range flat like a man, not angled like a douchebag
-do a barrel replacement, more air means it can handle more barrel. Plus eliminating dead space where those air restrictor springs used to be has always been on my mind when I mod turrets like this.

I hope you enjoyed this writeup, 'nuff said on my part.

Edited by KingBouyah, 20 February 2009 - 12:47 AM.

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#2 rork



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Posted 20 February 2009 - 12:42 AM

Fucking nice. I am so doing this. Thanks. My only concern would be that the metal rod makes reinforcement more complicated than it needs to be--perhaps a flat metal strip would smooth that step out.
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#3 nerfnut23



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Posted 20 February 2009 - 12:46 AM

Bravo, bravo. And I am on rork's side on this one, but other than that, b-e-a-utiful. I hope to God that Angel adds this to the directory. Where's my Hyperfires? :D
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#4 Draconis


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Posted 20 February 2009 - 01:50 AM

That's pretty awesome. It's nice to see some folks thinking outside the dart box.
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#5 Wes7143



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Posted 20 February 2009 - 11:51 AM

Sweet. That also means that it has two different power levels! I'm sure with a little more tweaking, It would get 60'.

On the scale of imaginary rating, you get 10/10.
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#6 UpperHand



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Posted 21 February 2009 - 12:02 AM

Incredibly nice. Very clean too. This will be great for everyone who adds on the DTG to the front of their longshots.
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