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Snap Rifle

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#26 nerfnrg

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 11:27 PM

Your welcome? Well since the trigger is as far back as possible, then that means that those ranges will only get better due to weather? Oh well, I still like it and will make it very soon.

~nrg
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#27 nerfer9

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 02:33 AM

Oh, I understand. Whats your barrel? Because even in the cold I was hitting 100 FT with my SNAP. (yeah, us MNers are hard core)



Pfff....So what, you run around in snow for a little bit. It doesn't make you harcore, or anyone else on the MNers. Thats like, what the 30th time someone from Minnesota has said that?

On topic: Wow, I really need to make a SNAP bow, or just a snap.
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#28 BustaNinja

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 07:38 AM

Oh, I understand. Whats your barrel? Because even in the cold I was hitting 100 FT with my SNAP. (yeah, us MNers are hard core)



Pfff....So what, you run around in snow for a little bit. It doesn't make you harcore, or anyone else on the MNers. Thats like, what the 30th time someone from Minnesota has said that?

On topic: Wow, I really need to make a SNAP bow, or just a snap.

Um, no it was about 6 hours in 20 degree weather, using foam firing guns. I can get all the other guys to vouch for this. And you're in California. What the fuck do you know about the cold? You probably wear a winter jacket when its 50?

And yeah, seeing as how I've never seen your attendance, anything posted by you, or anything resembling a constructive post, where the fuck do you have room to talk?

and if you are the king of hardcore, what is that you've done? I was saying it as a joke, the whole hard core thing, but if you are still hell bent on pitching a fit, then be my guest. Come down to MN for a war in the winter. We'll see how "hardcore" you are then. And, I posted that sometime last week. If you are really gonna get upset over something I posted last week, you need to go to some form of therapy

On topic, is your PC 5 inches or your plunger travel? Because I can see that being a problem.
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#29 laxtk88

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 03:13 PM

Um, no it was about 6 hours in 20 degree weather, using foam firing guns. I can get all the other guys to vouch for this. And you're in California. What the fuck do you know about the cold? You probably wear a winter jacket when its 50?

And yeah, seeing as how I've never seen your attendance, anything posted by you, or anything resembling a constructive post, where the fuck do you have room to talk?

and if you are the king of hardcore, what is that you've done? I was saying it as a joke, the whole hard core thing, but if you are still hell bent on pitching a fit, then be my guest. Come down to MN for a war in the winter. We'll see how "hardcore" you are then. And, I posted that sometime last week. If you are really gonna get upset over something I posted last week, you need to go to some form of therapy

On topic, is your PC 5 inches or your plunger travel? Because I can see that being a problem.


Owned.
On a side note, I completly agree with Busta. Doing anything in cold weather is harder than in warm weather. I once had a football practice in 19 degree weather wearing only a t-shirt under my pads. I have never been colder in my life.
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#30 nerfnrg

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 03:40 PM

So guys, is there any way to increase the plunger travel for this gun? Well, I kinda asked that because Busta repeated the problem in the gun as rork did.

~nrg
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#31 BustaNinja

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 03:49 PM

Um, no it was about 6 hours in 20 degree weather, using foam firing guns. I can get all the other guys to vouch for this. And you're in California. What the fuck do you know about the cold? You probably wear a winter jacket when its 50?

And yeah, seeing as how I've never seen your attendance, anything posted by you, or anything resembling a constructive post, where the fuck do you have room to talk?

and if you are the king of hardcore, what is that you've done? I was saying it as a joke, the whole hard core thing, but if you are still hell bent on pitching a fit, then be my guest. Come down to MN for a war in the winter. We'll see how "hardcore" you are then. And, I posted that sometime last week. If you are really gonna get upset over something I posted last week, you need to go to some form of therapy

On topic, is your PC 5 inches or your plunger travel? Because I can see that being a problem.


Owned.
On a side note, I completly agree with Busta. Doing anything in cold weather is harder than in warm weather. I once had a football practice in 19 degree weather wearing only a t-shirt under my pads. I have never been colder in my life.

was it windy and wet? They you will be colder. Actually, the sweat alone probably made it cold enough. Wind though?

Increase plunger travel? Make the Pressure chamber bigger. Its pretty simple. You want the spring to be slightly compressed, but not by a whole inch. About a fourth of an inch at the most.

Edited by BustaNinja, 09 February 2009 - 03:50 PM.

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#32 Wes7143

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 03:50 PM

Allright, allright. Stop highjacking this thread with your "Who's more hardcore" bullshit. We all know that the four feet of snow sitting outside my door, and the -4 degree weather makes me the most hardcore as far as cold weather is concerned.

I disagree about the plunger travel. 5" is far more than most stock Nerf guns with 100' range. The dart should be well out of the barrel by the time the plunger is 3/4 of the way done. I've got the spring in constant pressure, and it's already plenty hard to load.

I believe the reason for my problem is the cheap silicone lubrication. It's got enormous amounts of static friction, and will become incredibly hard to move if left for a period of time. I'll buy the more expensive stuff next time I'm at the hardware store.

There isn't much I can change on this gun, apart from the shoulder rest and handle, as those are the only non glued parts. It's a decent gun for my first self-designed gun.
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#33 BustaNinja

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 03:56 PM

Allright, allright. Stop highjacking this thread with your "Who's more hardcore" bullshit. We all know that the four feet of snow sitting outside my door, and the -4 degree weather makes me the most hardcore as far as cold weather is concerned.

I disagree about the plunger travel. 5" is far more than most stock Nerf guns with 100' range. The dart should be well out of the barrel by the time the plunger is 3/4 of the way done. I've got the spring in constant pressure, and it's already plenty hard to load.

I believe the reason for my problem is the cheap silicone lubrication. It's got enormous amounts of static friction, and will become incredibly hard to move if left for a period of time. I'll buy the more expensive stuff next time I'm at the hardware store.

There isn't much I can change on this gun, apart from the shoulder rest and handle, as those are the only non glued parts. It's a decent gun for my first self-designed gun.

True, also as stated the o-rings might be doing something bad too. I haven't used them, but I remember when CS was working on the Rev. 2 plusbow, he switched to rubber washers because the seal with the o-rings was too good. Alot of people seek airtight seals, but the truth is, if it is truly airtight, the dart would have a harder time leaving the barrel, thus lower ranges.

And wow, it sucks for you. We are finally having a warm up in MN. After about 3-4 months of solid below 0. I am so happy.
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#34 nerfnrg

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 04:11 PM

Ok my string of questions about the plunger travel is finally finished. Now, I have questions about building the gun. ^_^ I have been referring to the handwritten "write-up" recently and you haven't specified how long the cpvc should be for the plunger rod and where the cut should be in the 3/4 pvc for the priming handle.

~nrg

P.S. Sorry for my endless string of questions. I am quite a new nerf modder.

Edited by nerfnrg, 14 February 2009 - 09:08 PM.

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#35 nerfnrg

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 04:12 PM

Sorry my computer lagged and then it double posted.

Edited by nerfnrg, 09 February 2009 - 04:12 PM.

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#36 Wes7143

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 07:10 PM

Ok my string of questions about the plunger travel is finally finished. Now, I have questions about building the gun. :) I have been referring to the handwritten "write-up" recently and you haven't specified hong long the cpvc should be for the plunger rod and where the cut should be in the 3/4 pvc for the priming handle.

~nrg

P.S. Sorry for my endless string of questions. I am quite a new nerf modder.


Long enough. That's how long it needs to be.
You cut that bit after you have assembled the gun, except for the stock. That way, it is the correct length.

Where should the slot in the 3/4" PVC be? Again, you make that cut based on the mostly assembled gun. Start the front where the CPVC is, and go back a bit more than 5".

You build it as you go, rather than having a kit.
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#37 nerfnrg

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 09:39 PM

I am almost done with my SNAP Rifle and the plunger travel is about 6-5 1/2". Maybe my clothespin trigger is different from yours thus making a larger plunger travel. I will try to get a picture to you (Wes7143) once I am done.

~nrg
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#38 k9turrent

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 10:15 PM

Ok, So I'm just doing some research about snaps.

What is the I.D. of the plunger tube?
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That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


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#39 Rogue Warrior

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 10:26 PM

It is roughly 1 3/8''. But it's labeled as 1 1/4" PVC.
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#40 cheesypiza001

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 10:26 PM

According to this, the ID of 1-1/4" SCH40 PVC (the plunger tube material for the Snap Rifle) is 1.38.

EDIT: Rogue Warrior beat me to it.

Edited by cheesypiza001, 16 February 2009 - 10:27 PM.

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#41 k9turrent

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 10:53 PM

al thanks guys...

Offtopic: You want to talk about cold weather...I was teaching winter Survival this weekend. -20F
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QUOTE View Post

That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


HOLY CRAP!

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#42 Bonzipon

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 12:31 AM

Christ, everyone is making a SNAP but me..

I am the most hardcore cold survivor, because I live in Nothern Manitoba, and yesterday was -32* and today was -39* So HA!

Back on topic, How much would the parts to make a SNAP cost? Ordered from McMaster into Canada..
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#43 Carbon

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 12:49 AM

Christ, everyone is making a SNAP but me..

I am the most hardcore cold survivor, because I live in Nothern Manitoba, and yesterday was -32* and today was -39* So HA!

Back on topic, How much would the parts to make a SNAP cost? Ordered from McMaster into Canada..

I don't think McMaster delivers into Canada...

But aside from that, a SNAP takes about $20-$30 in parts, if you have absolutely nothing...and that leaves you with enough pipe left over to built several more guns.
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#44 twenty4

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 10:39 AM

Where can you get plusbow springs.

#45 Wes7143

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 12:06 PM

Where can you get plusbow springs.


I didn't exactly use a +bow, but it's the same place, same material, just a little wider.

http://www.mcmaster....#9637k25/=n5tac

It's roughly the same strength. I got it so I could use it in guns outside of homemades. I currently have a shortened one of these in my LS.
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#46 Draconis

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 01:45 PM

I'm happy that spring is working out for you. I'm still waiting for mine to show up, but I expect excellent results from those in the L+L blasters. You are correct, Bob. It's just enough to provide high power, but not be a complete bitch to prime. Similar in strength to an AR-15 Buffer spring.

Edited by Draconis, 17 February 2009 - 01:52 PM.

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[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
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[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#47 Doom

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 03:05 PM

The spring constants McMaster-Carr gives for the continuous length compression springs are not the spring's stiffness. If you read the note you can tell these constants help you determine what length you want. As the entire length is being used, you divide the given spring constant by the coils/inch multiplied by the length to get the spring's stiffness, also commonly called the spring constant (this is the point of confusion). The stiffness is the force per length we are looking for.

These two springs are barely different in stiffness because of this. The one with the higher spring constant has a stiffness of 3.88 lb/in and the other is 3.50 lb/in. This is what the difference in coils/in does.

Last year I wasn't too sure of this calculation myself, but I checked the numbers this method gives me against a mathematical approximation of the stiffness and it matched closely. This page is a calculator for the lazy who want to do that.

Without looking at any other information such as the stress in the spring, geometric limitations, or price, there's no compelling reason to use either over the other. Such analysis would be necessary to make comparisons about the total amount of energy stored in each spring because the stress in the spring or the spring's geometry may limit the displacement.

Edited by Doom, 17 February 2009 - 03:10 PM.

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#48 Draconis

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 03:15 PM

Without looking at any other information such as the stress in the spring, geometric limitations, or price, there's no compelling reason to use either over the other. Such analysis would be necessary to make comparisons about the total amount of energy stored in each spring because the stress in the spring or the spring's geometry may limit the displacement.


Thanks for the link! The '[k25] was chosen because of it's overall similarity to the '[k26]. Same wire size, slightly larger OD and fewer CPI tells us "still a beefy spring, but not quite as much". Look at the range data Hereticorp posted in the L+L thread. Now, that's only 1/2 a spring, but the point is that it was about a 5-10% drop in range, but allowed a much easier plunger prime.
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[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#49 twenty4

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 03:21 PM

So what's stronger [k25] or [k26]?

#50 Draconis

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 03:28 PM

So what's stronger [k25] or [k26]?


The '[k26], which is the +Bow spring.
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[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?


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