Keyring Rig Help
#1
Posted 30 January 2009 - 11:24 AM
So if you can't see what I've done; I've drilled a hole in the wall beside the area where the clip goes, put a straw there and threaded the wiring through the straw. I drilled a hole on the other side, then up through the little plastic wall underneath the clip-catch mechanism.
Here's a video of the pulling of the trigger through the key ring:
If you couldn't tell, it takes quite a bit of a pull to get it to pull and there's a lot of resistance. Even then the trigger moves back very slowly and sluggishly, and still doesn't get a full stroke.
I'd greatly appreciate if someone would clue me in on how to properly do one of these, because I'm lost.
This has spiraled beyond uselessness into utterly stupidy.
Read it again until you figure it out.
#2
Posted 30 January 2009 - 11:32 AM
#3
Posted 30 January 2009 - 11:39 AM
replace the copper with with something else im sure they have like 1MM wires at lowes or home depot if not...then idk what to say maybe a bigger copper wire and twine them together
I used copper wire because it's really flexible and workable, yet still strong. I don't think replacing it with anything else would improve the trigger-pull problem. In fact, I'm pretty sure it would harm it.
I'm looking for a different way to rig this up with the insides, because the wire's going up down, right and left right now to get through to the keyring area, so I'm looking for a way to make it have a straighter pull line (and I can't see of any ways to do it), so I'm wondering if anyone has done anything different.
Edited by Glint, 30 January 2009 - 11:39 AM.
This has spiraled beyond uselessness into utterly stupidy.
Read it again until you figure it out.
#4
Posted 30 January 2009 - 11:40 AM
#5
Posted 30 January 2009 - 11:49 AM
1. The LSFG has NO potential. Your crappy ranges are normal.
2. An incomplete trigger pull will only affect air guns, as the air leaks out slowly. As long as it fires, you are fine.
Otherwise, nice job. Your LSFG integration is much cleaner than mine.
It's just screaming to be rearloading...
I seen a movie about that once.
#6
Posted 30 January 2009 - 11:49 AM
EDIT: MSDFS: Before I had intergrated the FG (it was just cut down and separate) it was getting way better ranges in comparison to now... and I don't know what the problem is. I'm expecting it's the key ring, but it might be something else.
Edited by Glint, 30 January 2009 - 11:53 AM.
This has spiraled beyond uselessness into utterly stupidy.
Read it again until you figure it out.
#7
Posted 30 January 2009 - 01:00 PM
As for your problem, Glint, use Spider-wire fishing line. It is flexible and it doesn't stretch at all. I use it on my LS/Mav to link the triggers, and the setup doesn't allow for any stretch, and it works beautifully. I previously tried three different guitar string gauges, and they all either broke, stretched or were really hard to pull. All of that was solved with a few strands of Spider-wire.
SGM's Shred Shop -Mod Service
NerfHaven's resident drama queen.
#8
Posted 30 January 2009 - 01:20 PM
As for your problem, Glint, use Spider-wire fishing line. It is flexible and it doesn't stretch at all. I use it on my LS/Mav to link the triggers, and the setup doesn't allow for any stretch, and it works beautifully. I previously tried three different guitar string gauges, and they all either broke, stretched or were really hard to pull. All of that was solved with a few strands of Spider-wire.
Alright, I'll try that. Thanks a lot.
You're steering people in an entirely wrong direction, because it's provably physically impossible.
Every moving part in that blaster can be categorized into those which have effects before the catch releases the plunger, and those which have effects after. The trigger, wire, and keyring clearly fall into the before category. As such, it is physically impossible for them to affect anything after.
Yeah, I was thinking that it's probably not the triggers' fault the ranges are so much worse. Sorry 'bout that.
So I guess what I'm looking for is if there's a different way to thread the wiring through the bidy of the LS, or is the way I've already done it the only way?
This has spiraled beyond uselessness into utterly stupidy.
Read it again until you figure it out.
#9
Posted 30 January 2009 - 03:21 PM
SGM's Shred Shop -Mod Service
NerfHaven's resident drama queen.
#10
Posted 30 January 2009 - 03:24 PM
This has spiraled beyond uselessness into utterly stupidy.
Read it again until you figure it out.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users