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L Plus L Cs And L+l 2.0 - Completed - Pic Heavy

The new standard in homemade pistol awesomeness

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#1 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:42 PM

I finally got around to putting together the L+L and L Plus L CS parts that I have had sitting on templates for months and months.

Fair warning, there are LOTS of pictures and not a lot of description.

I will get around to doing a writeup for both L+L and L Plus L CS but not till I have more parts in stock for both of them, I wiped myself out of bits and pieces building these four.

Already sold one L Plus L CS to Koree as well, hopefully it works well in tandem with the +Bow.

So without further adieu, here are the results of my labors.

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My first batch of creations. L+L with square plunger, L+L Polycarb Plunger, L+L with round plunger and a L Plus L CS on the bottom. All of these have lower springs for the catch.

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This is the L Plus L CS, you can really tell the difference in the back.

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#2 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:43 PM

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From here I'm taking pictures after I made the last L Plus L CS, I also changed the springs on the CSs to stronger ones from Ace.

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Yes, I'm using a light box to take pictures of Nerf guns, shuttie.

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The catch on the CS needs to be very heavy, the stress from the spring is insane, so I moved the attachment point for the spring down.

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#3 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:44 PM

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I really like the clear barrels on these, it just looks cool to see all the stuff inside. I also added screws into the plunger tube cross to reinforce the back end so the front screw on the barrel isn't taking all the force from the plunger when the blaster is fired.

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There are subtle differences between the two CSs I've made so far, mainly because I was tweaking the location of the spring attach point.

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And now the L+Ls, which are actually easier to cock than the CS, at least the round plunger one is, the square one is I think just a little bit too large, I'm getting a 3/8" by 3/8" rod to try out instead of the 1/2" x 1/2" that I'm using now. I had to trim the edges down on that one to make it fit into the +Bow spring.

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#4 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:45 PM

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And there you have it ladies and gentlemen of the peanut gallery, my pistols. Now I have to modify the Airsoft holsters I bought to work with these monsters.

Update:

Ranges:

Ten shots per gun, 4" PETG barrel, 2" Single BB Stefan.

LpLCS - +Bow Spring: 62, 63, 65, 65, 66, 67, 70, 70, 71, 72
Average: 67
LpLCS - LpL Spring: 58, 58, 59, 60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66, 68
Average: 62

L+L - +Bow Spring: 62, 62, 63, 64, 64, 65, 66, 68, 68, 68
Average: 65
L+L - LpL Spring: 55, 55, 56, 56, 58, 59, 59, 61, 61, 62
Average: 58

The blasters can definitely benefit from a heavier stefan, I will do testing with heavier materials in the future.

Edited by hereticorp, 11 February 2009 - 01:24 PM.

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#5 Nerfer327

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:46 PM

That sir, is total fucking awesomeness. I commend you.
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QUOTE(Pineapple @ Feb 4 2009, 04:04 AM) View Post

The last thing we need is a mass gathering of prepubesent boners all over the place


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Time heals all wounds.
But it cannot hide the scars.

#6 rork

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:56 PM

Very, very nice. How much will these sell for?

EDIT: Ah, I see the sales thread.

Edited by rork, 28 January 2009 - 06:07 PM.

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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20296" target="_blank">SNAPbow Mk. V</a>
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#7 A side of nerf

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 06:03 PM

God, you don't know how much it warms my heart to come on here and see people building the gun I designed. Those look real nice Hereticorp, I might have to make a CS L+L now to go along with my L+L.

I have to ask though, why don't you wedge the 3/4 by 1/2in hex bushings all the way in. On mine, I just run the screw through both the Plunger tube and the bushing.

I will get around to doing a writeup for both L+L and L Plus L CS but not till I have more parts in stock for both of them,

A write-up for the L+L? Whaat? :)

Edited by A side of nerf, 28 January 2009 - 06:05 PM.

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#8 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 06:22 PM

God, you don't know how much it warms my heart to come on here and see people building the gun I designed. Those look real nice Hereticorp, I might have to make a CS L+L now to go along with my L+L.

I have to ask though, why don't you wedge the 3/4 by 1/2in hex bushings all the way in. On mine, I just run the screw through both the Plunger tube and the bushing.

I will get around to doing a writeup for both L+L and L Plus L CS but not till I have more parts in stock for both of them,

A write-up for the L+L? Whaat? :)


Er... Wedge? What? What ARE you talking about?

Yes, a writeup to do the various types of plunger rod materials that I've demonstrated. Square, Round and Rectangular.
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#9 Draconis

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 06:31 PM

Oh, presumptuous snap! Just kidding... They really do look nice.
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[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#10 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 06:38 PM

Oh, presumptuous snap! Just kidding... They really do look nice.


What now? Stop with the funny drugs.

Thanks.
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#11 A side of nerf

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 06:45 PM

Er... Wedge? What? What ARE you talking about?

I mean push the bushing all the way into the plunger tube like this. You know...wedge it into the plunger tube because it is a tight fit.

EDIT:

Longer throw distance on the plunger with the bushing out further, gives it a little extra oomph.

Yeah, I see where you are coming from now.

Edited by A side of nerf, 28 January 2009 - 06:53 PM.

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#12 hereticorp

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 06:48 PM

Er... Wedge? What? What ARE you talking about?

I mean push the bushing all the way into the plunger tube like this. You know...wedge it into the plunger tube because it is a tight fit.


Oh, that.

Longer throw distance on the plunger with the bushing out further, gives it a little extra oomph.
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#13 CaptainSlug

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 03:22 PM

I don't understand why your cuts are messier than mine. Are you not using a scrollsaw? Are you not using a dust clearing system? Are you using the right blade speed?
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#14 hereticorp

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 03:31 PM

I don't understand why your cuts are messier than mine. Are you not using a scrollsaw? Are you not using a dust clearing system? Are you using the right blade speed?


Using a Skill brand scroll saw, has a built in dust clearing system.

Blade speed is the fastest it'll go, is that wrong?

What TPI blade are you using? I think I'm using a 15 TPI pinned blade, but I'll have to check.

I can't find crown blades that are pinned or I'd be using those.
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#15 CaptainSlug

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 03:40 PM

I don't understand why your cuts are messier than mine. Are you not using a scrollsaw? Are you not using a dust clearing system? Are you using the right blade speed?


1. Using a Skill brand scroll saw, has a built in dust clearing system.

2. Blade speed is the fastest it'll go, is that wrong?

3. What TPI blade are you using? I think I'm using a 15 TPI pinned blade, but I'll have to check.

4. I can't find crown blades that are pinned or I'd be using those.

1. Good
2. Too high. Use 600 to 900spm depending on the thickness of the sheet. Anything above 1000 will result in melting or reduced control over your cuts.
3. Same
4. Any blade will work, I've even used spiral cut coping blades for tiny detail work. The piece with the Chinese character for the number 6 cut out of it is only 1-inch square.
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You simply have to find the best blade speed to match the tooth count for that blade. Too fast and you're not so much cutting as you are melting. Too slow and you're stressing the blade by having it bite too deep into the sheet on each pass.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 29 January 2009 - 10:26 PM.

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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

#16 hereticorp

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 01:25 PM

1. Good
2. Too high. Use 600 to 900spm depending on the thickness of the sheet. Anything above 1000 will result in melting or reduced control over your cuts.
3. Same
4. Any blade will work, I've even used spiral cut coping blades for tiny detail work. The piece with the Chinese character for the number 6 cut out of it is only 1-inch square.

You simply have to find the best blade speed to match the tooth count for that blade. Too fast and you're not so much cutting as you are melting. Too slow and you're stressing the blade by having it bite too deep into the sheet on each pass.


2. Ok, I'll turn it down a bit, although I'm not getting any melting.

4. Damn... That's impressive.

On a different note, ranges added to the main post.
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