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A Way To Eliminate The Goo Gauge?

Please enlighten me

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#1 Zaxbys

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:20 PM

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I have attempted and failed several times to simply goop in a piece of 1/8" vinyl tubing into this at2k tank but there was always a leak. In order to complete a project currently underway I must eliminate the goo gauge on this tank and it still hold pressure.

For those that have been able to do this please explain how you accomplished such a feat.

Thank you

~Zaxbys

Edited by Zaxbys, 26 January 2009 - 09:22 PM.

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#2 A side of nerf

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:24 PM

Well your going to need to buy a barbed coupler and wedge it into the tank through that hole but not far enough as to obstruct the movement of the parts. Then seal it with Epoxy Putty.

The barbed coupler should match the tubings ID ( it will say 1/8in Vinyl tubing coupler on the packaging) and it will take some strength to get over the barbs but it provides an airtight seal.
I buy mine at ACE for 2 bucks. You can also get them from McMaster for cheaper though.

Good luck...I hate goop.
-A side of nerf

Edited by A side of nerf, 26 January 2009 - 09:26 PM.

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#3 loni

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:25 PM

I'm not sure if the Goo gauge of the AT2K is similar to the one of the AT3k, but for the AT3K you can either.....

unscrew everything and open her up, then unscrew the screws that connect the goo gauge to the gun itself. Drain it and plug the hole that connected the air line to the goo gauge.

or........

In mine i had a stripped screw that was near it, so I just cut off the part that was attached to it with a coping saw.

Im sure there are other ways, but thats all that im aware of.

-Loni

Edited by loni, 26 January 2009 - 09:26 PM.

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#4 Zaxbys

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:25 PM

Well your going to need to buy a barbed coupler and wedge it into the tank through that hole but not far enough as to obstruct the movement of the parts. Then seal it with Epoxy Putty.

The barbed coupler should match the tubings ID and it will take some strength to get over the barbs but it provides an airtight seal.

I buy mine at ACE for 2 bucks.


@ side: I have plastic barbed couplers but will the epoxy putty provide the proper airtight seal assuming it is applied properly?

@ loni: Did you even read the post or look at the picture? I am trying to GET RID of the goo gauge not simply drain and plug it. The entire assembly cannot be present.

Edited by Zaxbys, 26 January 2009 - 09:27 PM.

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#5 A side of nerf

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:29 PM

@ side: I have plastic barbed couplers but will the epoxy putty provide the proper airtight seal assuming it is applied properly?


My advice: If your going to use Epoxy, mix it really well, I prefer using JB Weld for sealing but I have also used Putty to seal 3k Tanks...your probably safer with JB Weld though.

Edited by A side of nerf, 26 January 2009 - 09:29 PM.

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#6 TantumBull

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:30 PM

I just drill the hole a tad bigger and then super glue or epoxy in 1/4" OD vinyl tubing. I like A Side's barbed fitting idea, though, because then you have a sort of coupler.
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#7 loni

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:30 PM

When i said plug it, I meant plug the little hole that was once connected to the Goo Gauge from the air line. Once you remove the Goo gauge a little hole is left from where the air pressure raised/lowered the Goo like the diaphragm of a human body.

-Loni

Edited by loni, 26 January 2009 - 09:31 PM.

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#8 Zaxbys

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:31 PM

@ side: I have plastic barbed couplers but will the epoxy putty provide the proper airtight seal assuming it is applied properly?


My advice: If your going to use Epoxy, mix it really well, I prefer using JB Weld for sealing but I have also used Putty to seal 3k Tanks...your probably safer with JB Weld though.


Your approach does sound like it would make for easy connect/disconnect and would prevent the hose from drying out over time and calling for replacement. However, I am concerned with attempting to seat the barbed connector straight into the hole while still maintaining an airtight seal.
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#9 Split

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:46 PM

I've always drilled it our with a 15/32" bit, then forced the tubing, already wrapped in a liberal layer of goop into the hole. Let completely cure before even connecting something to the other end of that tube. Never had a problem, and I've had to do this probably a dozen times or so.

Credit goes to Ryan##### though. Not that hard to figure out, but I did just follow a post of his that's not so easy to find.
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#10 Zaxbys

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:49 PM

I've always drilled it our with a 15/32" bit, then forced the tubing, already wrapped in a liberal layer of goop into the hole. Let completely cure before even connecting something to the other end of that tube. Never had a problem, and I've had to do this probably a dozen times or so.

Credit goes to Ryan##### though. Not that hard to figure out, but I did just follow a post of his that's not so easy to find.


I searched but to no avail. If you come across it then please post it. I will attempt your method and see how my results turn out.

Might I ask though what size tubing you used?

Edited by Zaxbys, 26 January 2009 - 09:51 PM.

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#11 A side of nerf

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:58 PM

Your approach does sound like it would make for easy connect/disconnect and would prevent the hose from drying out over time and calling for replacement. However, I am concerned with attempting to seat the barbed connector straight into the hole while still maintaining an airtight seal.

Make the hole for the barbed fitting smaller than the barbed fitting and wedge it in there for a centered, semi-airtight fit even before you seal it, then lather it's base with JB Weld,
I never take off the tubing after it has been forced over the barbs, you really aren't supposed to it is supposed to be a permanent seal because the barbs are slightly bigger than the tubing itself.

because then you have a sort of coupler.

If you do use it like a coupler (taking it on and off) it'll fuck the end of your tubing up pretty bad.
I like the barbed approach because it leaves a cleaner look.
I also use it on my pumps:
Posted Image
I didn't even have to seal this one with any adhesives and it holds pressure in a 2k Tank.

Edited by A side of nerf, 26 January 2009 - 10:01 PM.

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#12 sputnik

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 10:05 PM

I've never thought about it, usually I cut out the crap and just goop the tubing like so.
No drilling or anything.
Usually it takes several tries, but once it's airtight, you're golden.
Posted Image
^1/8 Tubing^

As far as a barbed connector goes, well...
Posted Image
Use a crapload of Goop, and connect the pump last.

Hope I helped, and good luck!

Edited by sputnik, 26 January 2009 - 10:07 PM.

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#13 umpshaplapa

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 10:05 PM

I allways just drill the hole slightly, until the tubing im using fits. Then I put some goop on the tube and shove it in. Works great.
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#14 slowguitarman

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 07:07 AM

I agree with a few other that say goop it and shove it in. That's the same method I used with my AT10K, which has lots more air pressing against it, and I've never had any leaks from it.
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#15 Kid Flash

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 07:39 AM

That's the same method I used with my AT10K

Offtopic but what is an at10k?

I just use a whole lot of goop on mine when I do it Zaxbys.
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#16 Icespartan 1114

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 08:43 AM

I have only done this ounce in the past it was on a 2k because I was integrating it into a BBB, but since my tubing is rather thick I only had to goop around the tubing then shove it in. Just gooped around it then, and let that set for 24 hours. Did the same thing to the pump tube, got 100% airtight seal. But sadly the integration failed due to placement of the tank and pump on the BBB.
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#17 loni

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 09:44 AM

Offtopic but what is an at10k?



Im assuming that he just made a typo and posted AT10k, instead of AT1K.

-Loni

Edited by loni, 27 January 2009 - 09:45 AM.

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#18 The Nerf Devil

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 10:26 AM

No, I don't think it was a typo. See Linky! :D
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#19 slowguitarman

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 11:43 AM

No, I don't think it was a typo. See Linky! :D


Thanks. I was just about to post that. That tank is about 5x longer than a typical 2K tank, and the goop and shove worked well. Just as a side note, the AT1K doesn't use an air tank. It is just a pansy springer.
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#20 cheesypiza001

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 04:23 PM

Tightly wrap e-tape around the VT, (vinyl tubing) then goop the outside of the VT, then just shove it in there(please don't sigg). Make sure you add just enough e-tape so that there is a REALLY tight fit. Once the VT is in, spread goop around the hole area that you worked on. Lastly, tightly wrap e-tape multiple times around the VT and the hole piece of the At2k tank like so.

EDIT: Sorry...it reformatted......I will post a pic in a minute.

Posted Image

Edited by cheesypiza001, 27 January 2009 - 04:27 PM.

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#21 yahman1254

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 12:11 AM

i used a dremel to make the hole into the tank just big enough to fit my tubing and then super glued it in followed with hot glue. its working fine for me, but now i am having trouble getting a seal between the same 1/8 vinyl tubing and the end of a bicycle pump..the metal and the vinyl aren't adhering well...at least with various goops...i am now trying some caulking i found. any other ideas? (didnt feel a new thread was needed)
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#22 CaptainSlug

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 06:27 AM

i used a dremel to make the hole into the tank just big enough to fit my tubing and then super glued it in followed with hot glue. its working fine for me, but now i am having trouble getting a seal between the same 1/8 vinyl tubing and the end of a bicycle pump..the metal and the vinyl aren't adhering well...at least with various goops...i am now trying some caulking i found. any other ideas? (didnt feel a new thread was needed)

Your post quality is unacceptable.
Please re-read and abide by the board rules or we will eject you.
http://nerfhaven.com...?act=boardrules

You cannot simply glue tubing, you need to use fittings that are compatible with it.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 08 July 2009 - 06:28 AM.

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#23 Norther of Heaven

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 10:58 AM

Er.. nevermind.

Edited by Norther_of_Heaven, 08 July 2009 - 11:00 AM.

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#24 yahman1254

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 06:51 PM

Sorry captain slug i had misread jan as jun in the date of the last post. For the future, to avoid messing up old threads, maybe I will just make one single thread related to my mod and keep questions in that thread?
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