Add a working pressure gauge
Not too much, but on such a complex gun, I appreciated the challenge in the drop clip.
There are 30 odd pictures, so that means 2-3 posts worth. Just wait until they're up if you could.
First, here's the stock gun, opened up. Lots of screws, nothing too difficult though.
Unscrew this small thing and we begin.
Here's the basic breakdown:
The pump hits that white arm, which pivots a white piece, turning a one way mechanism that holds the turret, i.e. advancing to the next barrel. It's locked in place until you fire and the white arm is reset.
The lever piece on top has a little nub in there that stops the one way mechanism turning in the other direction (the one that it normally can) when it's engaged, i.e. locking the turret in place once the barrel is selected.
To the right is a spring loaded piece that seals the tank to the turret.
Here's the one way mechanism. The metal rod is what connects it to the white arm. The white ring there can be and should be removed for this mod.
Internals removed, arm in locked position.
Here are those removed internals, and the little nub that the spring loaded lever I talked about before actuates. I left it out.
This little spring loaded arm is on the other side of the tank, and is what makes that nice clicking noise when you spin the turret. It stops the turret from going in the way that the one way mechanism does, just as a redundancy effect so you don't damage the rotation. Nifty.
Go ahead and take all of that junk off of your turret. Grab your pliers. This is the best way to remove the stock barrels.
Jam them down into the stock barrels, and use leverage to pop them off. The air restrictors just fall out, real nice like.
Remove these four screws:
Lightly pry off the blue piece. One of my 3k blues was only glued in one spot, but the other was in like three. You can try boiling it off, but a bit of leverage worked for me just fine.
These keyring things (as seen in a drop clip rf20, if I remember correctly) are what we're going to be using primarily.
Jumping right into it, take the base piece (the one with the sliding parts and retaining balls) and drill a 1/8" hole into it. Tap it for whatever screws you're using. I used a #6-32 (from the +bow getup).
Route your white cap onto the screw and into the base as such.
Take a sanding wheel on your Dremel, and sand off the bottom lip.
Here, you can double up your springs for this. The added one is just an air restrictor spring from the same gun.
Important: The white piece that is on there had the inside bored out to 3/8" diameter.
I also added 3 counter sunk metal washers to this, and you should too, for spacing, and making the springs push harder.
Edited by Splitlip, 13 January 2009 - 04:00 PM.