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How To Seal Tubing Onto A M. Salvo

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#1 k9turrent

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 08:58 PM

The tubing that connects the pump to the valve broke off.
How would I re-connect this without plumbers goop?

I currently have:
-super glue
-epoxy
-gorilla glue
-hot glue (no shit)

And it's all Rokor's fault!!! (but really, we're good)

edit:
similar pic
Posted Image

Edited by k9turrent, 08 January 2009 - 09:14 PM.

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QUOTE View Post

That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


HOLY CRAP!

FU ALL

#2 rokor

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 09:02 PM

I can't help you on this one... but I just posted to say I'm sorry again, horrible freak accident...
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#3 k9turrent

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 09:21 PM

I' have added a similar picture of what I wish to accomplish (thanks Rokor)
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QUOTE View Post

That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


HOLY CRAP!

FU ALL

#4 rokor

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 10:11 PM

Yay, that's the first time a picture of mine has been used. For that I just used the cap from a syring. The things I used the hold the flour in my trip mine at WCNO. I think I'm going to try a different type of tubing because what I use now is very stiff, pretty much a flexible plastic. I'll get some true vynal tubing tomorrow and I'll report back on what I find was the best adhesive.
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#5 nerfnut23

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 12:24 AM

Drill a small hole where you want the hose, superglue it on, then cover in epoxy, and then if you want, E-Tape around that bitch like there's no tomorrow. If that fails, you are fucked.
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#6 imaseoulman

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 03:46 AM

Normally, this is where I would give up. You can't insert tubing into the unit because of how it operates. In theory, you could plug the hole you made with epoxy (being careful not to let any epoxy drip into the trigger assembly) attach some tubing (like 1/4" PEX) to the opposite side, drill in a 1/8" hole (again being very careful to ensure that you're not drilling into the moving piece...you should probably look at my diagram of how the trigger assembly functions) and then inserting your vinyl tubing into the PEX tubing and sealing it with epoxy. Again, it's a theoretical fix as I've never tried it, but it seems possible.
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#7 rokor

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 01:26 PM

Wait... did I take off the little nub that the tubing connects to? I thought all I did was break the tubing off... sorry, again.
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#8 imaseoulman

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 02:24 PM

Well, if just the tubing broke, you can epoxy in a barbed tube connector. They'll fit in anywhere that tubing will, so having that nub will make all the difference.
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#9 rokor

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 02:32 PM

Well I have a question also. I just tried to connect my pump to my SMDTG valve, and my AT3K tank by a 1/4" T vynal coupler thingy. Is there anything you have to do specifically to make it air tight, or do you just push it in like it says on the package? Because that's what I just did and I'm still leaking...
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#10 imaseoulman

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 02:57 PM

Well, first make sure your tubing is the right size (1/4" OD) and that the durometer is compatible with the coupler. If your tubing is too hard, it's difficult to get a seal. Similarly, if the tubing is too soft, it doesn't seal well either. Most tubing we use isn't too soft, but the stock tubing in the SMDTG may be too hard for a good seal. Try using a barbed connector. I've had better luck with those on some things.
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#11 rokor

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 02:59 PM

Well, first make sure your tubing is the right size (1/4" OD) and that the durometer is compatible with the coupler. If your tubing is too hard, it's difficult to get a seal. Similarly, if the tubing is too soft, it doesn't seal well either. Most tubing we use isn't too soft, but the stock tubing in the SMDTG may be too hard for a good seal. Try using a barbed connector. I've had better luck with those on some things.


Well the size is correct, and I'm pretty sure the combound isn't to soft/hard either. Do you think Hotglue will help?
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#12 imaseoulman

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 05:49 PM

Hot glue is not a sealant and won't hold at higher pressures for very long. Just to make sure it's connected properly, push the tubing in as far as you can (don't jam it in there, but make sure it's all the way in) and then pull back on it. There shouldn't be much slip at all. Tug firmly on it to make sure it's in place. After the system has been pressurized, try fiddling with the connection and see if pushing the tubing closer together causes the leaking to stop. And, as always, make sure it's leaking from where you think it is and not somewhere else (bubble test works well for this).
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#13 k9turrent

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 06:14 PM

Thanks guys for the help, the pump is back on.

The tubing made a decent seal over the nub, but it would pop off when pressured.
So I had covered the nub with gorilla glue then created a wall of e-tape around it and then it sealed.
But now I have a leak in the tubing to one of the chambers
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QUOTE View Post

That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.


HOLY CRAP!

FU ALL

#14 imaseoulman

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 08:17 PM

Well, that's a pretty easy fix. Just cut the tube below where the leak is and add a barbed coupler. If it's too far down, just cover it with some epoxy.
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