10 replies to this topic

[Drew is nerfing]

Well, after having my recon for over half a year, recently the plunger tube busted on me. I had removed the air restrictor, and I suspect dry firing the gun is the cause.



As you can see in the picture, the one on the right is the working plunger, and the one on the left is the broken one. The whole back of the thing cracked right off. I'm wondering if this has happened to anyone else before, or if there is a fix for it. I tried gluing the part that busted off back on, but even super glue came off after a couple of shots.

[soccerbeast003]

Well, after having my recon for over half a year, recently the plunger tube busted on me. I had removed the air restrictor, and I suspect dry firing the gun is the cause.



As you can see in the picture, the one on the right is the working plunger, and the one on the left is the broken one. The whole back of the thing cracked right off. I'm wondering if this has happened to anyone else before, or if there is a fix for it. I tried gluing the part that busted off back on, but even super glue came off after a couple of shots.

Yea it happened to me too. I just ended up selling the shell of that recon and buying a new one.

[Echnalaid]

Yes, the flaw in the recon is that it has to dry fire some times. That's why I padded it with a foam disk.

[CrazyIvan VI]

Wouldn't there be a way to prevent those dryfires, like on a Longshot?

If you remove the locks on a Longshot, even if you prime it after you don't have a dart in the chamber, you can pull the priming handle back, and then click the trigger and slowly let plunger back into it's unprimed position. Isn't there a way you could do the same with the recon?

[Captain]

This hasn't happened to me. I am always sure to grab the back of the plunger before dry-firing so I can slow it down (I have an older, non-recalled version).

[Hoceky]

This hasn't happened to me. I am always sure to grab the back of the plunger before dry-firing so I can slow it down (I have an older, non-recalled version).

Same here.

[Connor]

Two Of my Recons have are broken due to this and I just sold the shells.

[cheese killer]

I've found that no matter what you do to fix a longshot it just brakes. I had a problem like you'res and used some epoxy and let it cure for like a day. I don't know around the excact time but yeah. it broke after the third shot. I held it with bungie cords and everything to hold it together. It's a terrible gun after it's first break.

[Vinnie D]

I've broken a recon before though not for the same reason, and found that once broken it's a fantastic parts gun. You can strip it down to just the magazine clip and bolt sled and once you've tightened up the breech a bit and cut off the dart tooth it's great for adding a clip to just about anything. Mine's now a clip feed for my Titan for example. The stock with some PVC reinforcement went on my Big Bad bow, and I still have a spare sight, tactical light, and barrel extension along with some other assorted springs and brackets laying around waiting for the next time I feel creative. A broken recon may be a blessing in disguise.

I always take the time to add a felt pad to the end of any plunger when I remove an AR, for this very reason. Superglue though isn't all that super. Try JB weld or plumber's goop instead, and give it plenty of time to cure. Failing that maybe try fitting a PVC cap to it instead. These are all shots in the dark though, I've not yet had to fix a plunger that's broken in that manner.

[Drew is nerfing]

A broken recon may be a blessing in disguise.

I agree. The parts are extremely useful. Even though the spring is a bit wussy, it works well in my BBB and adds a little extra range.

Two Of my Recons have are broken due to this and I just sold the shells.

I'm sorry to hear that. I wonder if it's possible to intigrate a 2k into a recon shell? you could keep the clip functionality, so it would have the range of a 2k with the rate of fire of a recon. hmmmm...

If you remove the locks on a Longshot, even if you prime it after you don't have a dart in the chamber, you can pull the priming handle back, and then click the trigger and slowly let plunger back into it's unprimed position. Isn't there a way you could do the same with the recon?

I know what you are saying, I have done that to my longshot. However, the way the two guns fire are very different. When the gun is primed back, part of the bolt sled actually prevents the catch from going up. It's impossible to remove the "trigger lock" on a recon without destroying the whole bolt sled

That's why I padded it with a foam disk.

I am definately doing that with my new recon.

[BustaDartInYOurAss]

Theres a very simple way to prevent this from happening, first cover the outside in super glue, to keep it on. Then i took a long paintbrush and did the same thing on the inside so its reinforced with super glue on the inside and outside. After that take some foam and use it on the inside to cushion the blow. So far this method has kept my recon alive for over 150 shots with nothing even looking stressed. Also the black cap on the end of the recon may need to be cut, due to the glue on the outside adding some diameter. Hope this helps