24 replies to this topic

[TantumBull]

So, recently, I was at Fred Meyer and the Wipeout pistol (shoots little chalk darts) was half off for 10 bucks. Unfortunately we needed to get home and didn't have time to make the purchase. I came back a couple days later and it was still on sale, but for 14 instead. I decided it was worth it.

I have seen pictures of the internals and externals of the PS-800 and these guns are almost exactly the same. One of the only differences is that on the Wipeout pistol, there is a sight where on the Pistol Splat you load paintballs. The Wipeout is such an exact copy that is still has the breech that loads paintballs on the PS-800 under the iron sights!

I tested the gun out stock with the little chalk darts and it shot pretty hard. I tried with CDT's and got amazing results. The thing shot pretty damn hard for being bone stock. I also put my palm over the barrel and then shot. It had a fucking perfect seal, the plunger actually stopped! Needless to say I was confounded.

Then I modded it. Here comes the write-up. Prepare yourself for awesomeness.

First take a plier wrench to the iron sight. Twist hard.


Remove the sight and don't throw it away unless you don't plan on using it later. I kept mine.


Now rip off the ammo holders. I used beefy wire cutters.


Take a dremel to the purple ring which is what's left of the ammo holders. Use a sanding drum and top when you can see the actual shell. Then just rip off the ring.


Remove the screws and open 'er up. The things circled in red go in your parts bin. The long rod circled in red moves the stock barrel to open the breech for the paintballs in the Pistol Splat version of this blaster. The other thing circled is the stock barrel. The thing circled in green is the trigger lock. You can take that out if you want to. I kept mine so I don't accidentally shoot while I'm priming the gun.


Remove the plunger tube. Put the spring that falls out into your parts bin. By removing that you can't dry fire the gun anymore. The PT is shown next to the plunger head. DO NOT widen the hole in the plunger tube for better airflow unless you are also modding the plunger head. If you widen it the circular nub on the plunger head will go threw the hole and the rest of the plunger head will become deformed over time.


Start attacking the rubber piece on the tip of the PT. The following are the tools I used. I also used sandpaper for the last stage of removal.


Start jamming a screw driver in between the rubber and the plastic. Rip off what you loosened with the pliers.


At various points I also used the knife. Continue until it looks like the following.


I then used the phillips head screwdriver to scrape off excess rubber. Then sand it 'till the rubber's 99% gone.


Now glue/epoxy on a CPVC coupler. For some reason I forgot to take a picture of this step. It really isn't that difficult. Just be sure it's centered on the PT.

Dremel down the front of the shell where the coupler will now be. Be careful not to dremel the plastic that holds back the PT too much. I also dremeled down parts of the actual coupler because I didn't want to take too much off of the shell.


Apply excessive silicone grease, or another plastic friendly grease, to the plunger head, the inside of the PT, and the sides of the plunger the come into contact with the shell. This will greatly improve performance. Now put everything back into the shell.

As you can see I also cut off the part the orange barrel piece used to be attached to.

Screw it all back together and you have a beastly sidearm.

Edited by TantumBull, 31 December 2008 - 06:18 PM.

[Split]

This is actually the 200,000th post on the boards. Fucking wierd, but fucking cool. Great writeup; clear pictures, clear explanations and comparisons and good information. Very good job. I feel I need to reiterate something Vacc said to me:

You know, eventually we're going to ban converted paintball guns.

Between the versions of the Ps-800, and other models in the Splatmatic line, I'm really beginning to agree. But until then, I'll be the first to mod and use 'em.

[TantumBull]

Thank you for the kind words. Maybe this one will get off the hook because stock it fires chalk darts (even though it's the same as the PS-800 ).

[venom213]

Nice Mod! I got a paintball shooting one of these for Christmas this year. It's still stock so I'll probably be doing this mod soon. When I first opened mine, I went out into my garage to shoot the paintballs. Somebody said that the paintballs don't even shoot with enough force to burst, so I stupidly shot at a wall. It burst. I quickly wiped it up and it was okay. These things are powerful!

[Ubermensch]

I saw these on Amazon. Do the chalk darts actually work? Nice mod.


Also, the thing does shoot darts stock, so it isn't a converted paintball gun.

[Daniel Beaver]

You know, eventually we're going to ban converted paintball guns.

I feel that an exception should be given to the PS-800, since it's such a wimpy paintball gun.

[TantumBull]

Uber: The chalk darts kinda work. Not quite sure how long they last, because I think I lost them. They're made of really dense foam and are much thinner than most stefans. That's why stock darts have such a snuggishly tight fit in the stock barrel.

[rork]

As for the whole "paintball" thing, I would think that the reason paintball guns are right out is the excessive, dangerous power levels. The PS-800 (of whatever configuration) is an utterly shitty paintball gun whose operation is based on the same mechanism that is used in Nerf springers, rather than the gas-operated mechanism used in actual PB markers. I cannot honestly see it being banned, as it shoots no more than 100' or so when converted to micro stefan usage. Indeed, modding the PS-800 is more like converting a nerf gun that has had a tube feed installed back around to nerf than a true paintball conversion. Saying that the chalk-shooting ripoff version should be exempt from any theoretical ban is splitting hairs.

On topic: doesn't the rubber face of the plunger tube provide a cushion for the plunger impact?

[Daniel Beaver]

doesn't the rubber face of the plunger tube provide a cushion for the plunger impact?

No, the rubber face is on the outside of the plunger tube. It's there to provide a seal for the barrel, since the barrel isn't otherwise attached to the plunger.

[Aquinas]

<introduction>Hello, first post here. Been reading up on the forums since summer of '07 and waited a year to finally apply for membership. Just got approved this past November, I believe. </introduction>

I actually had done extensive research on this particular Pistol; a fair number of companies utilize this pistol/design and rebrand it as their own by slapping on a variety of logos and paintjobs (not uncommon in the toy industry). The Splatmatic PistolSplat is perhaps most familiar to the members of this board. The SupaSplat found at Spencer's Gifts is another. I've recently purchased a Splatmatic Patriot .50 cal (in red and black) at Bass Shop Pro, while TantumBull had just discovered yet another variant. They're all essentially the same toy, albeit with subtle differences. Many of the more respectable members here had given this converted paintball gun high praise, and I, too, am profoundly pleased with this blaster's performance.

Props to TantumBull. I had never thought of sanding down a PVC coupler and putting it INSIDE the shell of the gun. I just might have to do that.

Secondly, addressing specifically to Splitlip's reference to Vacc's quote: I don't want to put words in his or your mouth, and I understand that you are both Jersey nerfers (thus know each other well) for quite some time, but I do remember Vacc discussing this on the forums, and he was primarily addressing the CO2-powered paintball guns converted to shoot darts. If my memory serves me correctly, he mentioned that the PistolSplat's design, in particular, is more in the vein of nerf than paintball, and thus somewhat acceptable. (Though to what degree? You might have to ask him for his answer)

Personally, I don't think the issue here is a pragmatic one, but philosophical. Performance wise, these guns are perfectly within the norm of other nerf blasters. The blaster in question, the PistolSplat, while powerful, would not exceed the range of many popular primaries, such as the PAS, Big Blast, (and I can only assume, since I don't own them) Crossbow and +bow. The Splatmatic Thundersplat, which CaptainSlug recently modified, shoots stefans to about 70-80 feet (the break breech is totally awesome, though). These are solid blasters with solid ranges, though nothing Earth-shattering. Perhaps the issue, particularly for the "nerf purists," would be the spirit of nerf in general: what is "nerfing," and what does/should it consist of?

The "philosophical" side of this matter doesn't really bother me. In fact, aside from my recent Maverick and Recon purchases, I have not purchased an actual nerf product in more than a decade. I had only took modifying foam blasters recently, and my arsenal consists of TriggerFires, Pump Shotguns, Sonic Bazookas and one PistolSplat (I might purchase more). None of these blasters are designed to fire foam darts, and perhaps that's where the issue lies. I know this has been discussed many times before, but since the N-Strike line rolled out, Hasbro has been making blasters that bears more resemblance to (for a lack of a better term) "real" firearms while purposefully keeping the range of the blasters down to around 30 feet. Many members here have made note of how difficult it is to modify the reverse-plunger mechanism, and either that is on purpose, or a side-effect of Hasbro's inherit design. Frankly, this makes complete sense for Hasbro. This appeals to their target audience (and their parents, mind you) while avoiding over-powered blasters for the said audience (and therefore, lawsuits). It's been said many times, but the NIC community is a ridiculously small customer base compared with the actual customer base. Small potatoes are we.

Basically, for me, unless my cranium suddenly increase in size within the next few months for me to create a homemade from scratch, I will continue to find blasters (regardless of brand) that will be easy to modify while providing a satisfying airflow to propel my CS-style stefans. Perhaps the issue of proprietary eponyms also comes into play: it's like Kleenex is a brand of tissues, and Band-Aid is a brand of bandages; is Nerf simply a brand of foam blasters? While Nerf is definitely a pioneer in developing foam blasters (much like Tokyo Marui with AEGs), when other competitors enters the market, the playing field changes. such is the way capitalism works.

I like to talk, as most of you will find out soon enough. Ultimately, the opinions that matters most goes to those individual who host the major wars.

[CaptainSlug]

What is "nerfing," and what does/should it consist of?

In one sentence: Modifying or creating toy guns for the purpose of shooting safe foam projectiles at other people in public spaces.

The currently shared definition of "safe" is that any blaster that can consistently shoot a 1 or 2 gram foam dart beyond 150 feet is probably not safe enough to be used in the kinds of close proximities that most nerfing involves. Typical hits at wars are scored from less than 60 feet away because the drift of the projectile under slight breezes makes it difficult to be accurate at distances beyond 80 feet.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 31 December 2008 - 06:01 PM.

[Draconis]

This is so funny! I bought one of these a few days ago (I got it for $10, though!), an d am HUGELY impressed by it. I won't bother to post my pictures, as they are completely redundant. I used half of a 1/2" copper coupler instead of CPVC, and then just added enough tape to hold it tight.

[TantumBull]

Props to TantumBull. I had never thought of sanding down a PVC coupler and putting it INSIDE the shell of the gun. I just might have to do that.

Thank you, but I said that I sanded the actual shell. However, you must have really good eyes because I did also shave down the coupler. I forgot to mention that. Thanks for reminding me, I'll edit it in now.

Edited by TantumBull, 31 December 2008 - 06:17 PM.

[Watari]

I'm retarded...and you're a genius. I would have NEVER thought of sanding down the shell in order to fit the coupler on, I just cut the shell, left a little nub so that the Plunger would stay and hot glued the hell outa the thing. In the picture it is currently using a 4'' CPVC barrel, I am now using some brass.

EDIT: In your write-up, you had to actually work to remove the rubber part covering the plunger tube? That's weird 'cause mine was easily removed, no adhesive whatsoever.

Edited by Watari, 31 December 2008 - 07:05 PM.

[Aquinas]

I have the tendency to complicate simple matters; I replaced the paintball barrel with a piece of brass (with e-tape on both sides), sanded down the inside of a 1/2 PVC coupler and slapped it right in the front of the gun (with e-tape wrapped all around the top of the shell; I just don't like gluing things together). I might end up doing this your way, trim down the shell a bit and put a slide breech barrel onto the coupler. I'm just not the biggest fan of ramrodding (even though my PistolSplat, in its current form, utilizes that), while PVC breech loading on a pistol just seems too cumbersome. There might be flaws on my modifications, but my PistolSplat wouldn't vacuum load. I guess I'll have to figure that one out.

[Blue]

...

Edited by Blue, 08 August 2010 - 12:40 AM.

[jerm78]

I cut the coupler in half to get it in the shell when I did mine. How long of a barrel should be used???

[Mr BadWrench]

I'm retarded...and you're a genius. I would have NEVER thought of sanding down the shell in order to fit the coupler on,

join the club man... thats why we have the NIC because no matter what you do someone will figure out a simpler way to do the same thing.

btw.. ever hear the saying about Fools being genius? thats my advantage.

Don

[Watari]

I cut the coupler in half to get it in the shell when I did mine. How long of a barrel should be used???

Well 7'' inches is too much (from personal experience) and anything that is 3-4'' gets around 50-80' (yes, my gun changes ranges...depending on the dart) and I read a write-up that says 5''...So i'm guessin' around 3-5''

[TantumBull]

Optimal barrel length is highly influenced by dart fit.

Edited by TantumBull, 01 January 2009 - 07:56 PM.

[Blacksunshine]

Not bad. Too bad you had to lose the best part of this version of the blaster. The ammo holder is terribly handy to have. Was yours glued on? Mine slipped right off.

[TantumBull]

Not bad. Too bad you had to lose the best part of this version of the blaster. The ammo holder is terribly handy to have. Was yours glued on? Mine slipped right off.

Oh my god. I just realized I could have taken the orange piece off first and then slid it off! Fuck, I feel retarded. Oh well, at least now it's holsterable.

Edit: Got a question someone might be able to answer. As owners of this gun should know, the PT is kinda loose in the shell, and can spin or around and can be jostled a bit. For this reason, the barrel isn't always straight in accordance to how I aim with it. Anybody have a good fix? I was think of gluing the PT down, maybe with hot glue so it's still removable.

Edited by TantumBull, 01 January 2009 - 09:05 PM.

[jwasko]

Why not just add a layer or two of e-tape? I haven't tried this, personally, but it should work.

PS: I got best ranges with a very short section (~1 inch) of really tight barrel material, nested inside a few inches of rather loose barrel material.

Edited by jwasko, 02 January 2009 - 12:07 AM.

[TantumBull]

Why not just add a layer or two of e-tape? I haven't tried this, personally, but it should work.

I'm not sure if that would hold it in place well enough. I ended up just hot glueing the PT in so it is still removable. It's worked like a charm so far.

Edit: Anyone know of a good way to holster this gun? I'm in need of one. Like specifically what product if its an airsoft holster.

Edited by TantumBull, 02 January 2009 - 07:00 PM.

[Slayer of OnE]

I *do* know this is some serious necromancing (nearly a year's worth), but I've taken some notice to the blaster's build, and have some info to share that doesn't deserve it's own topic.

• you can take out the spring in the plunger tube, but it is still safe to dry fire. Although not recommended, the plunger's length of extension (with the spring) falls short of the end of the PT by a good 3/4 inch
• when primed, the spring can extend for at least another half inch. How exactly this can be resolved, I'm not too sure of. However, a couple of pennies and/or a nut can fix this issue, adding slightly more power.

That is all. Again, sorry for the necro.

-So1