18 replies to this topic

[CaliforniaPants]

I'm trying to paint a PAS red, but every coat kind of just leaves spots instead of a clean coat. This is different from when I tested it on a PVC coupler. Anybody know why?

[Soothsayer]

Did you sand the gun? Is it cold outside? probably the culprits

[CaliforniaPants]

Did you sand the gun? Is it cold outside? probably the culprits

I had seen that vinyl dye required no sanding, and it's a little chilly but the coupler dried fine.

Edited by CaliforniaPants, 30 December 2008 - 06:17 PM.

[Blacksunshine]

scale back to the basics of painting with spray. Spray paint needs to be used in around 70deg temps. So if its colder the paint will clump up and take longer to dry. Vinyl dye needs sanding just the same as any other spray on. if there is sealer or mold release or anything coating the plastic of your gun the dye will not be able to adhere. So I recommend sanding. the plastic they use for that gun and the rapid fire version is very well sealed. So I'm not surprised that you are having issues getting the dye to stick. A light sanding or chemical rubdown would be a good idea.

[CaliforniaPants]

So should I just let this cure for the 24 hours then sand with a very fine sandpaper?

[futureseal]

The same thing happened to me. There are two main problems. 1) The gun is very smooth and shiny, so sprays have trouble adhering. The way to fix this if fine grit sand paper. 200-300 should be fine. 2) You may be holding the can to close to the gun. Try moving the can away, and remember the key rule of thin coats.

Edited by futureseal, 30 December 2008 - 07:19 PM.

[venom213]

I had the exact same problems when I was painting my PAS too. I'll have to try some of these tips people are recommending the next time I paint something.

[BustaNinja]

Wait... you didn't sand it? No matter what you need to sand down plastic before painting. Most of it is sealed really well. I had the same problem when painting a Maverick, Nitefinder and many other guns. Now, all my guns get a complete sand down before painting.

[CaliforniaPants]

So I should sand with 200 to 300 grit sandpaper. Can I sand after the dye has cured or is this shell screwed?

[BustaNinja]

So I should sand with 200 to 300 grit sandpaper. Can I sand after the dye has cured or is this shell screwed?

yeah, you can sand it. You can sand off any paint really. My longshot shell took about 4-5 different paint jobs and its fine.

I would go with about 100 to get the dye off, then 200, then 300 for the finish. Then after several coats, go over the whole thing with 400, then seal with whatever finish you want. Trust me, it will pay off.

[Merzlin]

May I also ask a question?


So you're saying that each coat should be thinly layered and not a complete coat each time

[CaliforniaPants]

So I should sand with 200 to 300 grit sandpaper. Can I sand after the dye has cured or is this shell screwed?

yeah, you can sand it. You can sand off any paint really. My longshot shell took about 4-5 different paint jobs and its fine.

I would go with about 100 to get the dye off, then 200, then 300 for the finish. Then after several coats, go over the whole thing with 400, then seal with whatever finish you want. Trust me, it will pay off.

You need to seal vinyl dye?

[BustaNinja]

May I also ask a question?


So you're saying that each coat should be thinly layered and not a complete coat each time

You can completely cover the gun without laying on an inch of paint every time. Remember, just paint it on light. You will get a much better paint job if you just take it slow and easy.

And I'm not sure about sealing the vinyl dye, but I would just to be on the safe side. Otherwise, if you are just using regular paint, then you need to seal it, unless you really want to paint over it again. Gloss paint however is sometimes an acceptable substitute.

[CaliforniaPants]

The local hardware store only had up to 220 grit sandpaper so I'm just gong to do 100, 150, then 220 sanding.

Mildly off topic: While ringing up my purchase the lady asked what I was doing, after replying "painting guns" and quickly elaborating she gave me the weirdest look. That's the first time anybody has asked me what I was up to.

[washedup]

Question for the OP. Did you clean/wipe down the gun before painting? Any grease or residue could cause problems with the finish.

[CaliforniaPants]

Question for the OP. Did you clean/wipe down the gun before painting? Any grease or residue could cause problems with the finish.

Yep, washed with warm water.

[CaptainSlug]

It's pretty obvious how many of the people replying have not worked with vinyl dye.

1. Vinyl Dye will bead up quickly on very glossy surfaces. You will need to sand them prior to applying Vinvl Dye, or you will end up having to apply up to 5 very light coats.

2. Cold weather does aggravate the problem a bit. As does holding the parts you are dying too close to the spray nozzle.

3. You can sand as much as you want before or between coats. But grit counts between 300 and 600 will work best.

4. No clear coat is needed or even recommended

5. While each coat of Vinyl Dye is dry to the touch in under 15 minutes, it will take up to 8 hours for the surface to cure completely so avoid handling the parts too much for that amount of time.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 31 December 2008 - 02:09 PM.

[CaliforniaPants]

It's pretty obvious how many of the people replying have not worked with vinyl dye.

1. Vinyl Dye will bead up quickly on very glossy surfaces. You will need to sand them prior to applying Vinvl Dye, or you will end up having to apply up to 5 very light coats.

2. Cold weather does aggravate the problem a bit. As does holding the parts you are dying too close to the spray nozzle.

3. You can sand as much as you want before or between coats. But grit counts between 300 and 600 will work best.

4. No clear coat is needed or even recommended

5. While each coat of Vinyl Dye is dry to the touch in under 15 minutes, it will take up to 8 hours for the surface to cure completely so avoid handling the parts too much for that amount of time.

So what I'm getting is that I don't need to sand off the dye that is already there, I just need to sand the surface so it's more capable to receive the dye.

Edited by CaliforniaPants, 31 December 2008 - 02:19 PM.

[futureseal]

Yes, sanding the dye comepletely off could damage the gun if you use to low of a grit, so just sand it lightly. My autozone carries fine grit sand paper, so you might want to check there if you can.