23 replies to this topic

[TimmyTown]

I am in the process of my continuing BBB modifications and I am attatching an AT2k turret to it. However a standard barrel system will probably not function very well and have a lower ROF then the previous couplered barrels I had on. I was wondering if anyone had any kind of system they had worked out to either coupler or breech the AT2k barrels. I would prefer rear loading but thats not possible without ruining the AT2k seal (if you can prove me different I would love you <3)

If you have something pictures or even an explanation would be greatly appreciated.

[CaliforniaPants]

Regarding a turret on a BBB. What's the best way to attach the turret and have an even air output. Also, my BBB is cpvc'd and would the turret's lengths be the same, or shorter. Not trying to derail the thread or anything, just asking some questions in a relevant topic.

Also, regarding the question TimmyTown asked. I've seen different sized brass nested in others using etape for a seal. Kind of like OfAllTheNerf's http://nerfhaven.com...11226&hl=bitchx

[TimmyTown]

You should attach it by putting a piece of 9/16 over the AT2k input with a coupler for support. The exact same as Bitch X. I know all about how to attach it to a BBB but I need a simple way of loading AT2k turrets, vacuum loading wont work I don't think. That would be pretty fantastic if it did but I highly doubt it and there is no way for me to test it.

[jerm78]

This is the way I did it, I use short barrels so Loading is esy but if you make it air tight it should vaccume load.

[TimmyTown]

This is the way I did it, I use short barrels so Loading is esy but if you make it air tight it should vaccume load.

No thats actually not true. It wont vacuum load because of the way the AT2k turret is designed. Period.

If I am wrong on this I would love to be prove wrong. Plus I have never gotten anything to vacuum load ever.

And, I can't immagine that yours gets very good ranges seeing as how you used hot glue to get the turret on, and its not inline with the air source. But hey if it works for you great. But I have a spring replacement and mine gets upward of 100 easily.

Edited by TimmyTown, 02 November 2008 - 10:44 PM.

[CaliforniaPants]

You should attach it by putting a piece of 9/16 over the AT2k input with a coupler for support. The exact same as Bitch X. I know all about how to attach it to a BBB but I need a simple way of loading AT2k turrets, vacuum loading wont work I don't think. That would be pretty fantastic if it did but I highly doubt it and there is no way for me to test it.

What i was trying to say was use different sizes of brass to act like a coupler, sorry if i didn't make that clear. Doing that, it would have the same easy reload of a normal coupler while retaining the turret. At least i think it would work, I haven't had the money to buy brass to try different things out, I've stuck with cpvc for all my needs for now.

Edited by CaliforniaPants, 02 November 2008 - 11:58 PM.

[TimmyTown]

No thats actually not true. It wont vacuum load because of the way the AT2k turret is designed. Period.

If I am wrong on this I would love to be prove wrong. Plus I have never gotten anything to vacuum load ever.

The fact that you can't get anything to vacuum load ought to clue you in that you don't know enough to reach any such conclusions about any turret design.

What would you want for proof? I taped a 12" piece of PETG to a totally stock AT2K turret, and just with my breath easily drew a stefan up through it. I see no reason to even bother considering any further tests.

Hmm, interesting. I figured that with the amount of open space then it wouldnt work. Alas I will try.

[Falcon]

THAT, my friend, is the best way to quad a 3b I have ever seen. Next 3b I buy, I'm quadding THAT way. Eliminates the air gap issues from dart to plunger head. Doesn't work on every gun I've quadded, but for 3b's...that just rocks.

Edited by Falcon, 05 November 2008 - 08:27 PM.

[TimmyTown]

THAT, my friend, is the best way to quad a 3b I have ever seen. Next 3b I buy, I'm quadding THAT way. Eliminates the air gap issues from dart to plunger head. Doesn't work on every gun I've quadded, but for 3b's...that just rocks.

So thats how I should do it? Rather than the Bitch x way? After all this work.... Oh well it it works better hellz yeah.

Wait wait wait. How do you prevent the plunger from knocking into the spring turn function on the back of the 2k turret?

Edited by TimmyTown, 05 November 2008 - 08:47 PM.

[Bomberman]

I'm pretty sure Falcon was just being sarcastic. It's hard to tell over the internet. We need more emoticons damnit!

But TimmyTown, seriously, do it the way it was done in the BitchX mod. It's much better than hot gluing a turret to the plunger tube.

[CaliforniaPants]

I'm pretty sure Falcon was just being sarcastic. It's hard to tell over the internet. We need more emoticons damnit!

But TimmyTown, seriously, do it the way it was done in the BitchX mod. It's much better than hot gluing a turret to the plunger tube.

Yeah, I don't think it was sarcasm, at least i hope not. And I'm guessing he would use a better glue.

[jwasko]

First: In my opinion, this thing is awesome and a half.

Second, get your facts straight: he didn't glue it to the plunger tube; he glued it to the cap that goes on the plunger tube. Seriously, did you (whoever it was, I don't care enough to check back) even look at the picture before posting?

He probably has the plunger stop the exact same way as when stock; the white piece behind the main AR. But, I really don't know; rather, I'm just speculating. Which is something that is generally discouraged around here, you know (see: the Vulcan, Recon, and Switchshot threads, if I remember correctly).

And, even if he did do it in a not-so-great way, you could always do it better.

Now: either try it for yourself, or shut up and wait for an explanation from Jerm78.

PS: I really don't see Falcon being sarcastic about Falconing stuff; that's serious stuff, man.

[/not sarcasm]

In response to Timmy: I was talking to Bomberman. There, you made me look at it. Happy? (By the way, still not sarcastic...just rhetorical)

Edited by jwasko, 06 November 2008 - 12:40 AM.

[TimmyTown]

First, get your facts straight: he didn't glue it to the plunger tube; he glued it to the cap that goes on the plunger tube.
[/not sarcasm]

My plunger hits up into that area when fired. I checked.
And that question was directed at him. I would love to get falcon to verify if he was being serious or not because with his approval I may just try this tomorrow evening.

[CaliforniaPants]

I'm also very curious as to where the internal parts are situated. I sent jerm78 a PM asking for a writeup or to at least answer some questions.

Edited by CaliforniaPants, 06 November 2008 - 01:05 AM.

[jerm78]

I had to cut the spring post down and the spring then drill a tiny hole threw the orange spring cap and post to put a pin threw to keep it on since the original threaded part was cut off. after doing so the plunger still hit it so I filled in around the spring with hot glue(making sure to not glue the spring). Now the plunger head stops against the glue. I drilled out the turret for max airflow and it shoots equal to my singled BBB so there is no loss in power


before drilling out

[TimmyTown]

I had to cut the spring post down and the spring then drill a tiny hole threw the orange spring cap and post to put a pin threw to keep it on since the original threaded part was cut off. after doing so the plunger still hit it so I filled in around the spring with hot glue(making sure to not glue the spring). Now the plunger head stops against the glue. I drilled out the turret for max airflow and it shoots equal to my singled BBB so there is no loss in power

OK fuck that. That sounds too risky to put my BBB through.

Thats also unfortunate, I was looking for an easy cool looking mod.

I have put way to much work into this bitch to risk messing it all up by cutting down the plunger rod.

[CaliforniaPants]

Oh, i get it now. It's a bit hard to understand the cutting part without seeing it happen step by step. Thanks for clearing up most of that though.

EDIT: But TimmyTown, you're just screwing with the turret, not the plunger rod. Al least that's what I gathered.

Edited by CaliforniaPants, 06 November 2008 - 11:02 PM.

[TimmyTown]

Oh, i get it now. It's a bit hard to understand the cutting part without seeing it happen step by step. Thanks for clearing up most of that though.

EDIT: But TimmyTown, you're just screwing with the turret, not the plunger rod. Al least that's what I gathered.

Maybe. So he just gave the turret less of a spring? I may have to try that on one of the spare 2 turrets I have lying around and see how it works.

So you cut down the spring at the back of turret, made it all smaller. Then put it inside of the BBB endcap?

[jerm78]

you cut the back of the turret so it dont stick out as far. Sorry I dont have any pics of that step. It's pretty simple I just explained it weird. None of the BBB's internal parts were cut except the tip to apply the turret. I plan to double spring it next.

[TimmyTown]

you cut the back of the turret so it dont stick out as far. Sorry I dont have any pics of that step. It's pretty simple I just explained it weird. None of the BBB's internal parts were cut except the tip to apply the turret. I plan to double spring it next.

Bring the BBB spring to the Ace hardware closest to you. Search their springs for an NF sized spring (but tougher) that is about 2/3 the size of the BBB spring. Buy 2 of these, cut 1 down so that they both fit all the way on the rod with little to no space left. I am sorry I don't have name for it but Ace labels their springs weird. This spring combination rocketed my BBB range to around 100' flat. (Upper 90s and low 100s)

[Falcon]

NO, I wasn't being sarcastic.

If I'm being sarcastic, I PROMISE you, you'll know (provided you have some capability for understanding sarcasm...my girlfriend's mom, unfortunately, does not.)

Getting the best out of turreting a gun requires getting the air output of whatever the gun is as close to the back of the turret as is humanly possible. The stock airtech 2k itself is NOT the most efficient design because there's about 1/4" of space coming off the valve that could be shortened, but the 2k's shell doesn't exactly have a place where you could put the turret further back in the gun to help rectify this.

BitchX was an awesome mod. The turreting method being discussed HERE is simply more air efficient, because it brings the back of the turret closer to the plunger head than a method which suspends the turret on a piece of brass or other similarly sized barrel material, creating additional dead space. Make sense?

PS: I really don't see Falcon being sarcastic about Falconing stuff; that's serious stuff, man.

Hells YES it's serious stuff. It's serious business. Like the internets.

Edited by Falcon, 10 November 2008 - 12:10 PM.

[CaliforniaPants]

Thanks for clearing that up. I decided to give the turret thing a go, and I was wondering about the spring post. Is it level with the air input or shorter? (If that question isn't clear enough I'm sorry)

PS: I could have gone forever without seeing that video again.

[TimmyTown]

I have looked into doing this for a while but the spring post is metal? Its like 1/4 inch of solid metal (Im not sure what kind) And cutting it down looks like a massive chore....

[CaliforniaPants]

I have looked into doing this for a while but the spring post is metal? Its like 1/4 inch of solid metal (Im not sure what kind) And cutting it down looks like a massive chore....

Yeah, and once you get past that you have to cut down the orange part so it rotates correctly. Crazy hard in my opinion.