4 replies to this topic

[Black Wrath]

Hey everyone, I'd like to annouce my new write-up of a mod. I have developed a 'new' breach design, that I haven't seen mentioned before. It is quite simple, and my write-up explains it all. I don't have pictures as of yet, but the words do quite alot of talking.

Any input is greatly appriciated, and I apologize in advance for the long post... sorry.
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Now, I can’t say that breaches are original, but I can say that I haven’t found anything like this before.

I came up with this idea while building a homemade rifle, which I copper barreled. I wanted a way to load my darts without having to ram rod them down my 14 inch barrel.

This is quite simple if you have the right materials:

- An existing ½ inch barrel (copper or brass)
- ¾ inch copper or brass
- Electrical tape (lots)
- Foam craft sheet (thin)
- A wood dowel
- Some patience
- Not a lot of skill needed
- Most important material, also hardest to find- A Roto-Track or Chainblazer barrel (can most likely be substituted with a thin rubber ‘sheet’ that can be hot-welded into a roll that fits snugly around the ½ inch barrel.)

This simple breach is perfect for long range rifle guns. Namely, the SuperMaXX 5000. This gun is the sole reason I went all the way with this idea. Shoving a dart down a 12 inch barrel isn’t desirable. Up until now, this will be the best addition to a Maxshot, or a SM5000. Or I guess anything else with a long enough barrel, and easy access to it.

The assembly is simple. First, you need to make a cut into the copper or brass with a dremel. Make the cut ½ inch away from the end of the barrel. This cut should be made ¾ of an inch shorter than the dart being loaded. For my 2.5 inch darts, that’s a 1 and ¾ inch long hole. The hole will be rectangular, and will be ¼ of an inch smaller in diameter than the dart. This is all to protect from jams, and the dart clipping itself on the breach hole. The hole will be ½ inch from the end of the barrel, closest to the stub where the air comes out. This will ensure no dart jamming.

Now, after you have made your hole, it is all easy sailing from here.
Take one of two paths, the Roto-Track barrel, or the rubber sheet.

The Roto-Track barrel. Simple, just slide it on over the barrel. Once you’re done that, you can continue with putting a dab of hot glue on the new breach cover, on the middle if you wish. Then, put a 1-2 inch piece of ¼ inch doweling in the glue. Obviously, you want it straight. This will make it easier to open your breach. If you are making this breach on a real gun, the you might need to make a cut in your shell so that you can access the breach, if your barrel is nested.

The rubber sheet. Make sure it is longer than your hole, about ½ inch longer. Wrap it around your copper or brass, and then hot weld the rubber together, not TIGHT around the barrel, but just a little bit of room; this thing has to slide you know.

Now, slide the cover over to the edge of the hole, so that it is completely open. Now, mark a spot on the barrel where the edge of the cover is when the breach is open. You will put a piece of dowel there, or wrap it in tape, or a dab of hot glue there to prevent the slide from moving past that point.

Now, for the hard part. You will need to have somewhere to put your ¾ inch copper or brass. It should be 1 inch long, use discretion, because the fit may be different on your gun. On the Sm5k, with a little tape wrapped around it, the little stub is perfect for it. When the ¾ material is very tight around the peg, wrap the outside and then hot glue it to the tank. The whole point of this is to make the breach airtight, by making the slider recede into the ¾ inch material. It works perfectly.

After that, you will need to keep the barrel straight. You do this by wrapping the barrel in tape until it is snug in the ¾ inch material. You can then glue the barrel in place. What I did, because I had a different set-up then described here, was use a dowel to keep the barrel straight. I did this by wrapping a point beyond the range of the slider, in electrical tape, higher than the slider. I glued the dowel the tape there, and to the tank. After that, it was all done.

Now, you have your breach. Make sure you sand down your hole so that there is no ripping of your foam. This breach is very realistic, and works well. Very practical and better than a lot of the other options out there, like removable barrels and such. Good luck with your new breach, and may you have an easier time loading those precious darts.

This design was thought up by me, no one helped me. If you can find similar content on the web, dEffeminateting this exact design, tell me. I am unaware of it, and to me, this idea is original.

**MANY PICTURES COMING SOON**

Mod by: Xx_Black-Wrath_xX of NerfHaven, and NHq. All material and writeup- Xx_Black-Wrath_xX. © C. Morrison 2004

What do you think?

[Ironman]

... and I apologize in advance for the long post... sorry...

Dude you were not kidding.
But anyway, sounds great. whats the range?

[Nerfer16]

**MANY PICTURES COMING SOON**

Looking forward to seeing the pics. Good ideas.

[Black Wrath]

... and I apologize in advance for the long post... sorry...

Dude you were not kidding.
But anyway, sounds great. whats the range?

Yep, I wan't kidding.

The range is excellent. Because of the innovative way to seal the breach, there is virtually no air leakage. This effectively makes this get the same range as a normal 'fixed' barrel. On my Sm5k, the range was 129' to upwards of 132' with the normal barrel mod, where the barrel was taped and hotglued on. I get 120' to 125' with this breach. I feel asthough the 4-7 feet lost, is worth the 2-4 seconds gained in reloading time... not to mention the awsome realness this breach has. Almost like a loser rifle.

Thank you for the compliment, and good question. I do believe this is a great alternitive to removeable barrels, and just makes the gun that much more functional, and cooler... haugh.

[Ironman]

I just made a gun with a removealbe barral and i can shoot around 100 feet.